[jackknife09]

It looks similar, but the M324 looks closer to the Echo. The key difference is that the Echo type, UTG type, and pretty much every other sniper type hop up lets you open the metal case. The Javelin's is one solid piece, and only the slide can detach.

What's confusing the balls off of me is that the plastic arm sticking out of the metal chamber has a pair of flanges on it, but the bucking has a groove where some kind of arm is supposed to come down and press on it. So I'm not even 100% solid on how the bucking is supposed to be engaged by that arm...

I'm also pretty sure a teflon tape mod is impossible. With the bolt cuff tightened down, there's practically no room to wrap tape around the bucking/barrel.

What I THINK I could do, is shim the plastic arm, put some tape around the metal slide peg, clean out any remaining gunk, and then see if I can tape off the bucking any. Some fresh lithium grease and I'll put the thing back together, head out to the woods and see if the accuracy has improved any.

If that doesn't work, well... SOL I guess.

 

[fuzzywolly]

Moved to the new thread labeled "projects".

Be sure to keep us updated Jack, this is quite the thread.

 

[jackknife09]

Ooo, fancy, I got moved up to the VIP section!

Well, I opened the old girl up again after a few more tests. It seems the lever on the hop up arm sometimes doesn't engage the bucking. I was able to open the actual barrel and adjust the hop up manually, with a lot more control than with the external lever. This of course will present some difficulty, considering pre-game protocol (at least for ASCO) entails undergoing a chronograph test with the hop up entirely disengaged.

Suffice to say, its AN option, but not THE option I'd prefer.

However, I visited my local airsoft supplier, and one of their gun techs informed me that he'd run across similar problems in the ECHO and UTG bolt actions. I'll be handing this rifle off to him tomorrow, and I'll have a diagnosis in a few days. Best scenario, it's the bucking and I shell out a handful of dollars to have it replaced. Worst case scenario, they'll comparability test the hop up chamber, and I'll be able to buy and install the new one.

While I'm down there I'm gonna browse around their upgrades again. They have a tightbore barrel for $30 and a metal piston, metal spring guide and 150sp spring set for $45. Sounds like a pretty good deal to me.

 

[inthetallgrass]

When your bucking wears out you could get the pdi m40 chamber. then put in a TBB and an AEG rubber. She'll be shooting lovely. I am loving the aesthetics of your gun though. Did you ever see Jarhead?

 

[jackknife09]

The more I look at it, the more it seems like there's room enough in the barrel to accept an APS2 hop up chamber, so I might just get that PDI one in the near future. There's a lot to balance with the internals here; I have to adhere to FPS/Joule limits for my state's regulations, make sure I don't put too much strain on the trigger assembly, and don't break the bank.

A PDI chamber, TBB (a 6.03 from the local store, or a 6.01 if I can afford it from the intertubes), a new rubber, and some barrel spacers - or DIY ones if I have to - seems like the best combination for a rookie sniper. If it turns out I don't suck in the field, I'll consider buying an upgraded cylinder and piston assembly, too.

And heck yes I've seen Jarhead. War movies are my favies.

 

[inthetallgrass]

Get a 6.03 and you'll save your self money and have just as much accuracy. Also Xfire is the place to go for the hop-up unit and I can recommend the W-hold bucking they have for sale there. Make your own barrel spacers and save yourself money - electrical tape. Also if you need to lower your fps for your field simply cut your spring. You can even cut it extra to put less strain on your trigger and make a really silent gun. (Mine's cut enough so that my piston never actually hits the cylinder head). Here's my guide to silence your gun. (Mine's an l96 but it can be applied to any gun) Pm me if you want to ask any questions.

:http://www.airsoftsniperforum.com/phpBB/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=1987&start=0

 

[jackknife09]

Hey, that's some intense stuff! Once I have the gun working right, I might have to look into this. At the moment, the gun has absolutely no rattle - which surprises me for a stock gun - but the actual shot is loud as hell.

So, with a cut spring and the softened cylinder head, the power of the shot won't be reduced, but there won't be a loud-ass pop when the piston releases?

 

[inthetallgrass]

Hey, that's some intense stuff! Once I have the gun working right, I might have to look into this. At the moment, the gun has absolutely no rattle - which surprises me for a stock gun - but the actual shot is loud as hell.

So, with a cut spring and the softened cylinder head, the power of the shot won't be reduced, but there won't be a loud-ass pop when the piston releases?

No cutting the spring would definitely reduce fps. But if you put in a TBB and a good hop up the fps will rise so keep the same spring, upgrade as much as you want and just cut as you go along to keep it under the limit. I had my gun shooting under 500 and I had to cut it down to 328 to play! So I took a lot off. You only cut a little off at a time.

Also just doing all the foam mods will still severely reduce noise output.

No there isn't a pop and my gun had absolutely no rattle but it still made noise when it was shot. With the spring cut or a padded cylinder head and foam it makes hardly any noise. I am open to help with anything. Air sealing, noise-cancelling and sidearm advice etc. Just shoot a pm or ask on the guide.

 

[awagg]

Take that orange tip off! Here: http://www.airsoftatlanta.com/Laylax_VSR_10_Silencer_Attachement_System_S_A_S_p/58453.htm Put that on after you take the tip off. Your rifle will look sweet after!

Also, that link is if you want to put a silencer on. You can find one for about $15, just an endcap.

 

[jackknife09]

Ah, I gotcha. Thanks tallgrass, I'll keep that in mind. Unfortunately I ain't got a chrono, so, I'll have to keep it stock until I get chrono'd at a game. The good news is, using a .28 I can get up to 480fps and stay under the 3 joule limitation. I know I won't break that without a heavy spring, so a 150 shouldn't mess me up too bad.

Awagg, the tip bit the dust a while ago, looks a lot better without it. I might get a suppressor in the future, but it's an aesthetic piece after all. Unless I get like a 600mm barrel or something and need to cover it.

Still, it'd look so badass on its own I might snag one anyway. XD

 

[awagg]

You can make functional suppressors, but it's supposed to not be allowed PM me for info, if you're interested.

 

[inthetallgrass]

Ah, I gotcha. Thanks tallgrass, I'll keep that in mind. Unfortunately I ain't got a chrono, so, I'll have to keep it stock until I get chrono'd at a game. The good news is, using a .28 I can get up to 480fps and stay under the 3 joule limitation. I know I won't break that without a heavy spring, so a 150 shouldn't mess me up too bad.

Awagg, the tip bit the dust a while ago, looks a lot better without it. I might get a suppressor in the future, but it's an aesthetic piece after all. Unless I get like a 600mm barrel or something and need to cover it.

Still, it'd look so badass on its own I might snag one anyway. XD

DO NOT get a 600mm barrel get a 500mm at most. It's not more accurate. Look it up as I have explained this countless times on at least two forums and at my site. Also If you still have a stock trigger unit I would cut the spring as a spring that stong will make the trigger only last so long. Also FPS is over-rated for range. With .3g at one joule using the PDI chamber I can get the bb 200ft away fairly accurately.

 

[jackknife09]

I've heard about the issues with barrels overextending and ruining the air column for the bb, so I think I'll be sticking with the 499. Plus, I think that's the only length that will fit this gun, the lip that holds the barrel in place won't take anything else. Kinda sucks, but, there ya go.

 

[inthetallgrass]

Doesn't suck, that's better. It'll mean less noobs will ruin their guns. Not calling you a noob lol.

 

[jackknife09]

So after a few days of examination and firing tests, it appears that the problem with my rifle, was that I severely underestimated its power. It only hits 415-ish FPS stock, but the gun techs at my local airsoft shop assured me that in their experience, .28s are far too light even for the stock Javelin M24.

... better than hearing it's broken, right?

 

[MGunner]

So after a few days of examination and firing tests, it appears that the problem with my rifle, was that I severely underestimated its power. It only hits 415-ish FPS stock, but the gun techs at my local airsoft shop assured me that in their experience, .28s are far too light even for the stock Javelin M24.

... better than hearing it's broken, right?

My BAR10 shot around 415 stock, and did great with .28's. The m,ax I would use for that are .30's, and that's a stretch.

 

[jackknife09]

Quick update. Took my gun out for some more target practice using .40s, and they flew beautifully. Nailed some randomized targets at about 150ft. The weight lowered the fps a good amount - the gun chronos in at 450fps with .20s stock - but they're flying straight.

Bad news is, I suffered a pretty catastrophic jam halfway through the firing session. The bb rolled back into the hop chamber, and got stuck between the bucking and the cylinder nozzle. Didn't get it fixed until I got home. Also, the stock plastic spring guide and piston cracked, which is to be expected of a plastic piece in a bolt action, I suppose...

I picked up a metal piston and guide, and they're rock solid now. However, for my first match tomorrow, I'll be sticking with the stock spring. This is due to the fact that I don't know the current joule/FPS of the gun, and I'd rather be shooting weak than show up to my first game and have my rifle shooting too hot at the chrono test. The spring set claims to increase velocity by ~20%, which would put my .40s at about 3.6j, more than half a joule over the ASCO limit.

It's starting to become pretty clear why I got such a good deal on this rifle. The mags are cracking around the pins, and nothing seems to get the bastard running smoothly even 70% of the time. If the problems persist, I might just see what I can get for the gun's parts on ebay, cut my losses and find a different brand of rifle.

At least I have a free scope and bipod, I guess. vOv

 

[fuzzywolly]

Dang, at first, I was like that a boy, way to get her running smooth. Then I read the rest and now I see where the frustration is coming from.

It's kind of ironic how one can put so much work into a rifle and never get it performing the way you want it to, but meanwhile, other people never do a single second of maintenance/mods and their rifles just keep on rolling. :-/

 

[zebrakid96]

Looks great with camo

 

[Wolfgeorge]

You necropost too much!


Wolf