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Discussion Starter #62
Cheers for the advice.
I ended up ordering a Maple Leaf cylinder head (ID ML-VCH1) from skirmshop.
Should be decent :)
While I wait, I'll dick around with the AA one (mostly to grossly tune the energy output), will give the silicone thing a try too and if it works, well, I can do it on the new cylinder head ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #63
Let's talk springs for a second.

I keep reading about 7mm, 9mm and 13mm springs.
Is there any actual difference between say a M100 in those three diametres?
 

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There's only 7mm and 9mm. 13mm is just the outer diameter of the 9mm spring. There really isn't that big of a difference. I find 9mm quieter and longer lasting is all.
 

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Discussion Starter #65
There's only 7mm and 9mm. 13mm is just the outer diameter of the 9mm spring. There really isn't that big of a difference. I find 9mm quieter and longer lasting is all.
thanks. Bolt pull is the roughly same I guess, right?
 

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Yeah I think so.
 

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For an m100 they will be about the same. 9mm springs are easier to rack, especially with stronger springs. 7mm springs tend to deform rather quickly. Long story short 9mm springs are better all the way around. Though your spring guide and piston need to be able to accept them.
 

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Discussion Starter #68
For an m100 they will be about the same. 9mm springs are easier to rack, especially with stronger springs. 7mm springs tend to deform rather quickly. Long story short 9mm springs are better all the way around. Though your spring guide and piston need to be able to accept them.
Ookay, I'll measure the spring I have once I get home. I said M100 but could be M110/M120 to make up for the shorter barrel and airbrake combination, can't tell what spring I'd need until the new cylinder head arrives.
 

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Discussion Starter #69
So, short barrel in, lost 0.1J (@ 0.6 currently), also installed the TDC and waiting for epoxy to dry (glued 24h ish ago).
Currently drawing a suppressor insert to go into the outer barrel.
 

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Discussion Starter #71
The what mod?
 

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Discussion Starter #72
The what mod?
ooh, the silicone pad thing 😄
Idk yet, I first need the new cylinder head so I can test the airbrake!
 

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I've never really used an airbreak, but I see no reason to ever use one when you can just fill the area with sorbos. I'd imagine that's quieter, though I could be wrong. Going to try just putting a couple of laylax sorbos in instead of the silicone pad. The HAMMAR mod certainly drops the noise, but it creates a kinda ugly bouncy sound. It's mostly an aural aesthetics thing, no performance difference.
 

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Discussion Starter #75
I've never really used an airbreak, but I see no reason to ever use one when you can just fill the area with sorbos. I'd imagine that's quieter, though I could be wrong. Going to try just putting a couple of laylax sorbos in instead of the silicone pad. The HAMMAR mod certainly drops the noise, but it creates a kinda ugly bouncy sound. It's mostly an aural aesthetics thing, no performance difference.
eeeh.. I have a spare sorbo, and 3 more are coming with the skirmshop order.. I guess I can try having 2 pads instead of one
 

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Discussion Starter #76 (Edited)
How about this?
Sorbo + half a rubber door stopper

EDIT: surprise surprise, it does not work 😄
Still a very definite and audible slapping.
 

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How about this?
Sorbo + half a rubber door stopper

EDIT: surprise surprise, it does not work 😄
Still a very definite and audible slapping.
Those are probably fairly hard. That said, are you testing indoors or outdoors?
 

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Discussion Starter #78
How about this?
Sorbo + half a rubber door stopper

EDIT: surprise surprise, it does not work 😄
Still a very definite and audible slapping.
Those are probably fairly hard. That said, are you testing indoors or outdoors?
indoors, it's been pouring like crazy every day for the last month or so. I know, should go outside but we are currently in hard lockdown until the 6th. Whenever I get the chance I'll go to my field with a mate and do some proper testing.

Meanwhile I filled the outer barrel with foam (not really foam, it's marketed as "magic rubber" and it's used as a cleaning sponge) and put a foam roller in the "suppressor chamber", the echo from the sound waves bouncing around the barrel has been reduced, now it's more of a burp instead.

I'm gonna dick around a little bit with scotchbrite for now, until all the parts are delivered.
At that point I'll line the stock (where the outer barrel and trigger box sit) with EVA foam sheets so that they have a minimum of cushion and can't reverberate vibrations that much.
 

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Its wayyy louder indoors. Outside, it sounds at least half as quiet.
 

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I suggest that you glue a piece of cardboard from a cereal box or similar on the inside face of the end cap to your suppressor, and then shoot through it until your shots are straight.
Should take 20-150 shots depending on stuff and things.
This will act similar to a "fart flap" but not reduce power and not mess up accuracy.
I have done this to a couple of my suppressors in the past, abd only just recently have I needed to do it again as the inner barrel on my SSX23 is very off center, so I couldn't use a perfectly centered piece of plastic sheet, unless I widened the hole.
Another thing I will have to do when I can go to a machine shop next, re bore my SSX23 outer barrel so it doesn't need shims or anything annoying.

Not too related, but recently I have put in another insert in my M4 outer barrel/suppressor that takes the exit hole diameter from 7.96mm to 6.21mm, and it still shoots perfectly fine, I'll just have to make sure I don't accidentally put in a .20 or .25 instead of a .32 or .36 like I normally use.
Just for those who will ask about the size of the suppressor, it is 500mm long, but only 110mm of it has BBs go through it as it is essentially an outer barrel.
The outer diameter is 35mm and the inner diameter is 33mm, so not very large.
 
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