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Just got a 2nd hand JG G36C for a backup gun with forward grip with tactical torch with pressure grip

Also a Pantac Wasatch Chest Rig

There all in the mail on there way to me woohoo

visit this profile here techsavvy for connectingh you to the tts converter online
 

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Discussion Starter #82
Its wayyy louder indoors. Outside, it sounds at least half as quiet.
Yup I'm aware of that :)

I suggest that you glue a piece of cardboard from a cereal box or similar on the inside face of the end cap to your suppressor, and then shoot through it until your shots are straight.
Should take 20-150 shots depending on stuff and things.
This will act similar to a "fart flap" but not reduce power and not mess up accuracy.
I have done this to a couple of my suppressors in the past, abd only just recently have I needed to do it again as the inner barrel on my SSX23 is very off center, so I couldn't use a perfectly centered piece of plastic sheet, unless I widened the hole.
Another thing I will have to do when I can go to a machine shop next, re bore my SSX23 outer barrel so it doesn't need shims or anything annoying.

Not too related, but recently I have put in another insert in my M4 outer barrel/suppressor that takes the exit hole diameter from 7.96mm to 6.21mm, and it still shoots perfectly fine, I'll just have to make sure I don't accidentally put in a .20 or .25 instead of a .32 or .36 like I normally use.
Just for those who will ask about the size of the suppressor, it is 500mm long, but only 110mm of it has BBs go through it as it is essentially an outer barrel.
The outer diameter is 35mm and the inner diameter is 33mm, so not very large.
A fart flap is definitely an option, did one on my mk23 the other day with great results! (used some OD camo tape I bought a while ago).
It'll be the absolute last thing though, after I've sorted the power and everything else :)
 

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Discussion Starter #83
So.
The Maple Leaf cylinder head I got is huge.

The nozzle is 1mm longer than the stock, but the thing that worries me the most is the internal diametre, it's fucking H U G E, at least 1mm larger than the stock one.
I think I'm gonna have to wrap some heat shrink around the airbrake -.-
 

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Does the cylinder head fit onto the AA cylinder? Also, is the outer diameter of the air nozzle the same as your T11 air nozzle? What is the inner diameter?
 

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Discussion Starter #85 (Edited)
Does the cylinder head fit onto the AA cylinder? Also, is the outer diameter of the air nozzle the same as your T11 air nozzle? What is the inner diameter?
yes it fits just fine.
OD for both is just about 8mm and narrows down to 7 at the hop end.
ID of the maple leaf appears to be 6mm, stock is more like 4.5mm.
Airbrake is just shy of 4mm thick.

Just did a quick test with the new head, stock rubber pad:
Still pumps out 0.65J, gun sounds just a hair louder but I blame it on the spring bouncing around the piston (13mm piston, 7mm ID-10mm OD spring), doing the can mod as I type.
Airbrake definitely feels useless.

Update: I looked at it funny and the rubber pad unglued itself from the cylinder head, lol.
Glued proper sorbo, will do another quick test
 

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Discussion Starter #86
Nozzle ID doesn't seem to affect anything, apart on 0.4s, 0.68J opposed to 0.6/0.65J with the stock cylinder head, so just a tiny bit of JC or it just seals more.
 

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2 words. Air flow.
 

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Discussion Starter #88
Yep, air flow.
So, with 0.4s it's considerably quieter and I think I'll stick to that weight (if I can get my hands on some 0.36 I'll test those too).
There are only four things left to address:
1) soundproofing the trigger box - waiting on EVA foam sheets;
2) cylinder guide sleeve - either printed or done via Blind Sniper's DIY guide;
3) new spring to get as close as I can to my shitty 0.99J limit;
4) new spring guide in case I end up with a 13mm spring (or shim the stock guide with aluminium tape)

I believe the stock spring to be a M90 since it gave 85ish m/s with 0.2s on the stock setup, but could as well be a M80, although unlikely.

Considering the shorter barrel and the 3.5:1 ratio, do I take my chances with a M/SP100 or should I play it safe with a M/SP110 and cut a coil or two if needed?
 

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Discussion Starter #89
Okay, another update:

Ordered a G&P SP110 spring (in theory it's equivalent to a M120) to dick around with, there is a general shortage of parts here in Europe and I didn't fancy spending €20 on a spring and €20 postage on top of that yet, so this was just €9.

Also sent SCW a message to which the guy responded, he sized his airbrake around the stock TM cylinder head which has an ID of 4mm (his brake is 3.9) and he suggested to make a custom airbrake.
Based on those measures I should increase the airbrake's thickness from 3.9 to about 5.5/5.9 millimetres for my new cylinder head (6mm ID and then choked to 5 at the very top).
Was thinking either multiple heat shrink layers or a good ol' PTFE wrap to 6mm with one layer of shrink that should.......well......shrink everything down to 5.5/5.9mm, while keeping everything rock solid.

If everything goes according to plan I'll be fucking happy :D
 

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Discussion Starter #90
A few considerations on yesterday night's testing:

New spring installed, 0.99J on 0.2s, nice, 1.42J on 0.4s, not nice.
Removed solder from the piston.
1.05J on 0.2s, not nice but fixable, 1.56J on 0.4s, fuck me.
Stock piston in, fired a single 0.4g bb that clocked in at 1.6 Joules, didn't bother with 0.2s

So, SCW piston back in (unweighted) and started cutting the spring.
The best I could do was 1.38J on 0.4s but the spring is too short now and doesn't keep the spring guide in place, the spring guide stopper keeps falling off so the spring is now useless (expected to ruin it, but meh).
There is now a M100 coming my way.

I have come to the conclusion that weighted pistons are naff and their only purpose is to cheat the chrono when your field only chronoes on FPS/0.2s.
Good to know, won't bother wrapping solder/making sleeves.

Also exchanged a couple of mails with Pavol @SCW about the airbrake and he's offered to make me a custom one to match the Maple Leaf cylinder head, I'll send him the measures tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter #93 (Edited)
Keep the updates and testing coming.
yup, even if nobody gives a fawkes I'll keep posting (so I can keep track of what I did and when).

There are times when adding weight increases energy but it is not often.
it did on the stock plastic piston (0.2J iirc) but that's about it.
Also, took my time to "properly" measure the Maple Leaf head.
Nozzle is 7mm ID, chokes down to 4.8ish mm for the last 7/8mm at the muzzle end and it's a clear defined step, not a gradual taper, the piston side taper is 2mm deep and goes from 7mm to almost 10mm on the outside.
The current airbrake protrudes in the actual nozzle (past the taper) by just 8 millimetres, no wonder it doesn't do shit 😄 I'll knock up a quick CAD drawing tomorrow morning for Pavol so he can come up with something, in the meantime I applied another layer of heatshrink, now the brake fits snug in the nozzle (can still move freely but there is no side to side play)..

New spring will be here tomorrow morning, will update on the new energy levels.

It's slowly coming together, a few rookie mistakes could have been avoided but eh, everything is a learning curve 😄

EDIT:
Here's a quick sketch of my cylinder head
Measures in millimetres (sod off you imperial plebs)
 

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Discussion Starter #94
M100 in.
0.94J on 0.2s
1.15J on 0.3s
1.25J on 0.4s
I'll leave it as it is, the spring is brand new and it'll lose some strength over time.

Noticed some inconsistencies with the hop, it could be because the silicone decepticon is brand spanking new, just to be sure I'll put the MR hop in (it has some 500/1000 rounds put through) and check again on Saturday.

Also, for a very brief moment I accidentally got the airbrake to work:
I had it wrapped in PTFE and heat shrink, during testing earlier the gun suddenly became whisper quiet and lost 0.1J, so I took the cylinder apart to see what was up.
Well, the heat shrink got stuck in the nozzle and the airbrake was actually plugging it, holy shit it was quiet!
I have removed the heat shrink and ptfe, the only thing left to do now is to wait for the new custom airbrake to be made and posted.
I reckon that once the spring wears in + functional airbrake the gun will be bang on 0.99J on 0.4s, at that point I can consider the build finished 🙂
 

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Discussion Starter #96


The SCW dude just sent me this picture.

It's silly but it should work :D (should be here in 10 days or so)
 
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The SCW dude just sent me this picture.

It's silly but it should work :D (should be here in 10 days or so)
I honestly don't know what to say about this.
It kinda looks like a weird dremel bit I guess- the airbrake looks like the part that fits inside a dremel.

Sent from my SM-A505FN using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #99
I honestly don't know what to say about this.
It kinda looks like a weird dremel bit I guess- the airbrake looks like the part that fits inside a dremel.

Sent from my SM-A505FN using Tapatalk
Now that I look closer, it seems to be a "regular" airbrake (but 24mm long instead of 15) with a sleeve on.
And yes it looks like a weird dremel bit :D

Doesn't matter though, as long as it does the job, I'm happy with it :)
 

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Discussion Starter #100


(the coin is 26mm in diametre, just to give an idea).

If it works, the build is complete.
 
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