The J-Hop Testing Thread

Great! I'm glad this worked out for you. And I apologize to everyone since I kind of went MIA on this thread for awhile, I've been having internet issues here at home.

The brass tube was a great idea. If I can find some 6mm tube/rod locally, then I'll give it a whirl. You said you picked it up at a DIY store. Are you referring to a hobby shop? I'm wondering if any of the corporate hardware stores would carry anything 6mm.

As soon as I can get the funds together, I may order some different mold casting solutions and try some of those silicone mixes since they leave an incredible smooth and even finish.

Glad to see some success with this!


As for the Tin tape that I used, I noticed it didn't come out smooth enough, and actually seemed to stick to the silicone when removing it, which may have damaged the R-hop. I used petroleum jelly to keep it from sticking, but it looks like that wasn't the right stuff to use. Back to experimenting.

Masterjuggler98 said:

There is something called oogoo which is just corn starch mixed with silicone 1 caulk. Some guy posted how to make it on instructables and all the uses. It is basically a really fast drying silicone caulk. The moisture in the corn starch activated the silicone from the inside out, instead pf waiting for the moisture to seep in from the outside which can take a while. I'm going to experiment with it to see if it can fix the problem of it being too sticky like what Vindi found out.

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I've been meaning to try that oogoo method you mentioned. Just not sure when because I'm working on a couple secret project's right now. :tup: I may post them here if its something people would be interested in.

ComradeHX said:

Seems like it has already been done; there was a guide on airsoft-barracks.

Also, I thought J-hop was original name for flat hop?

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I didn't see the topic on airsoft barracks. A link would be great if you could provide one. I'm sure everyone here would be interested in reading about it.

I was under the presumption that the flat hop involved flipping the bucking inside out and grinding off the "bump" and "alignment lip", basically allowing you to rotate the bucking to use a smooth factory molded surface of the bucking. Then using a new hop nub of some sort (nerf dart, eraser, etc) to push the smooth surface down into the hop window. But I'm new to all this, so maybe I presumed wrong. Someone please fill me in if that's the case.