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The J-Hop Testing Thread

24587 Views 47 Replies 17 Participants Last post by  arcticd
Before even reading this post, i suggest you take a look at this thread first and read through all the pages so you understand what the J-hop is and the many possibilities available.

Unfortunately, the thread on airsoft society has seemed to dwindle off a bit, and i haven't found much more testing done on this. If your going to take a stab at this mod, please share your results with everyone here so we can learn from each others mistakes and find a good solution. Once we find something that works, this will be a much easier method to making R/ER-hops or any type of hop for that matter.
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Necro or Necro posting is when the topic has been dead for some time, and someone posts again. Normally something that hasnt had any new comments in a good while is considered dead.. Most forums have a rule and staff will freak out in ya for reviving a dead topic. In my opinion, a topic like this shouldnt exactly fall into that category and should be ok to revive.

The necro's that bug me is when someone says "what gun should I get" and months go by and some knucklehead comes along and says what gun he suggests,lol.

Like really guy? Did ya really think the original poster was gonna wait 6 months to see what gun everyone suggests before he decides? hahaha.

I also feel gallery posts shouldnt be dead topics also..

By the way, this is just my thoughts, other Mods may feel differently
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Ditto to what Ranger said. Anyway, Builder, do you mean you put the cut straw between the bucking and the barrel to make the outside surface of the j-hop smooth? Another way you could do it is by leaving the outside uneven and just glop it on, take a razor blade and chop it down when dry, then sand it smooth. You way is probably easier though lol. My problem is I always get air bubbles on the inside the barrel side so the contact area isn't perfectly smooth. I'll try thinning it with mineral spirits if I ever get around to it.
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Thanks guys.

Juggler, Basically that is what I do except I just use the straw to form the outside. When it is cured I remove the straw and go on my merry way.

As for the air bubbles, I had the same problem once upon a time when I first started making molds. The key is to stack thin layers and then when you have it built up enough press the straw down hard so some of the Oogoo oozes out around the straw. Once cured peel the straw and then trim off the flashing with some fine tipped scissors.

Is it possible to see some pictures of the whole process?, and some links of the parts needed would be appreciated by your r European friends...
Is it possible to see some pictures of the whole process?, and some links of the parts needed would be appreciated by your r European friends...
I am doing one this evening for a buddy so I will shoot some pics.If you are out and about and want to grab the key items you will need: Silicone caulk(nothing fancy just plane !00% silicone caulk), corn starch, a rod or dowel that will fit into your barrel and a drinking straw.

If you go the oogoo route (cornstarch mixed with silicone caulk to make it dry in minutes) you will need silicone type 1. The type 1 silicone absorbs moisture to cure, and since cornstarch holds moisture very well, it cures the caulk in minutes (depending on how much was mixed.

Type 2 silicone caulk however expels moisture to cure, so adding more moisture from the cornstarch wouldn't get you anywhere.

Google "oogoo" and find the instructables page on it by mikey77. read through it and see how it works. You could always just use straight caulk but it takes forever to cure.

not perfect but seem ok, I will test it tomorrow :D
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Uh... How expensive is the caulk you guys are buying???
And exactly what brands are okay? I can only find caulk at Lowe's that's like, $15. :mad:
You can find the caulk at any hardware store. I even saw it at walmart. t doesn't matter what brand as long as it is labeled silicone "1". I found the really cheap stuff at homedepot that was only a few bucks and it works fine for me for making oogoo. Like I said though, you don't need to use oogoo, you can use straight caulk. You'll just have to wait a while for it to dry. Again, google "oogoo" and read through the instructable by mikey77. It will tell you all you need to know about oogoo.
Sorry kids, I should of posted this earlier but thought it a dead idea, as even I have sort of moved on from it :shrug:

These are some pics I took of my test hop in my M14......

As you can plainly see their is an arseing gert hole in the silicone, this I believe was caused by the BB dragging past the harder edge of my hop nub to the point of pulling chuncks of the silicone away :shrug:

Please bear in mind this is high grade building silicone, not the cheap shit you can buy for buttons down pound land/ dollar store.

If it does this to high grade silicone its definately going to do it to other, less durable products.

As an idea this method is sound, and to be honest its ok in use in the short term, as for a long term item I'd give it a miss and try some other more durable ( read harder) rubber, which I'll suspect will then not give the same grip that silicone gives :shrug:

To be honest the whole molding process, hap hazzard and inconsistent results on BB flight from the moulding is to much of a ball ache to warrent to much time and effort being expended on it :shrug:
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I could be wrong but I think the corn starch used to make oogoo would make the caulk stronger, or at least more ridgid.
It may well do, but there are far more easier ways to achieve better results in a shorter time :shrug:

The pics there are of my third attempt at even getting it to shoot straight, and when you add in the time of moulding, cureing and finishing each one, a process that that takes a couple of days at least, its just easier to make something else work :shrug:

I still use the basic principal in mine but I now embed actual hop rubber into the silicone as a friction surface and use the silicone as a bonder and sealer in 1, I also bond my hop rubber to the inner nub and barrel at the same time.

I do all this over a special former a spacers that I make to each barrel to ensure a perfect fit every time.

As to the original version of the J hop, like I said, a good idea in theory, I just dont think it met with my exacting standards :shrug: where it might meet with someone elses :yup:
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That makes more sense to me actually! I may try doing this and use the hopup rubber inside where the bb contact is.:tup:
So I finally found a quick and less time-consuming way to make these...
I'm sure someone has done this (what haven't you done Vindi???)
I just take a little time to make the oogoo (quite a pain in the a**) and piled it onto the window, using a cleaning rod wrapped in packing tape with lubricant sprayed on it inserted into the barrel (as per usual)
Now the hardest part for me was making it flush with the window; tried spit, grease, etc. with a razor blade, but the silicone that's taken off just sticks to more silicone....
So I sprayed some lube on a flat surface and rubbed it around on the area. I then rolled the barrel over that area (making sure to roll the barrel window over the lube) several times, squeezing excess oogoo from the sides, and the lubricant preventing any sticking to the surface of the flat... Surface...
The result was a very conforming top of the patch. Using a heatshrink bucking and square eraser nub I erected about only 180 feet of range with a CYMA Thompson with a barrel that definitely needed some TLC.
I haven't many buckings lying around and I can't afford to go grinding my precious few buckings, or I think my local shop owner is going to get peeved I keep coming for buckings >:D
Also tested with Elite Force .25 BIO's, which I have found to be not as well made as there non-bio BB's, which I love...
And if you make heatshrink buckings, I used the air nozzle inserted to create the appropriate sized bucking lip. Unfortunately, I melted my air nozzle by being careless with the flame.... So careful with that! Then wrap the heatshrink in appropriate amounts of teflon tape in line with eachother to ensure consistent pressure along the latitudinal portion of the bucking (although, with the stretching properties of teflon tape, the difference in pressure may be negligible.)
So in conclusion, I think it has potential. A tube of caulk and corn starch is cheaper than a pack of R-Hops, and you can make a ton of patches with these, and if you find that niche, you can output these pretty efficiently. Chunks may rip off after constant use, but again, if you find an easy way to make them, than it should be no problem to replace them.
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You guys ever try cutting up a aeg bucking for the r hop. I did it and it works like a r hop
You guys ever try cutting up a aeg bucking for the r hop. I did it and it works like a r hop
How you do that ? cut a piece and put in at barrel window ?
But then you are paying $10-15 for one or two patches, which is even less cost efficient than buying the r-hop, and WAY less cost efficient than having shifty give you a few inches of the r-hop tubing.
I think he's talking about flat hop...
And I have no idea what MJ is talking about
You guys ever try cutting up a aeg bucking for the r hop. I did it and it works like a r hop
If you go back and actually "read" post #32, you'll read its what I've been doing now for quite a while :doh:

So not really anything new :shrug:

@ MJ..... Only if your buying new ones, if your using up all your old & worn ones then its 100% cheaper :tup:
@Rubiks- Daddy was suggesting that we cut up bucking into r-hop patches. I'm saying just buying r-hop material instead of cutting up bucking is more cost effective.

Using up old ones is a different story. If you've got a bunch of old buckings with the mounds worn out, then cut away. You win lol.
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