[AccurateDMD]

both of the links worked for me i just tried them.

First link tells me it is "unavailable online" and the second states the product has been "discontinued". Hence my dilemma.

 

[KillerDad]

Check out your local hardware store and i'm sure they can help you find something similar
they were made for a faucet and i'm not positive but i think the sizes are common around the world

 

[AccurateDMD]

That was the plan if I couldn't find exactly what I needed online. Will report back with sizes and brands if I find any and can get them to work... or not.

 

[AccurateDMD]

Update. I purchased this pack:

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Danco-10-Pack-Rubber-Cap-Thread-Gasket-for-all-major-faucet-brands/1082487

The largest gasket it has is 1-1/16" so i attempted to use that after dremeling the inner diameter out to fit the cylinder. The issue was that when placed in front of the current delrin ring that comes with the rifle the 1/16" that it is smaller that the recommended 1-1/8" means it sits JUST inside the outer barrel and provides no shimming effect.

So I took the ring to work, made an alginate impression and then recreated the ring with 3 different types of acrylic that I have on hand (in case one was too brittle than another). I made them slightly wider in dimension and got them to fit properly so the barrel is shimmed perfectly.

THEN I realized I could just take the gasket i dremeled out and place it BEHIND the delrin ring in the receiver and it wont go into the outer barrel... allowing it to ALSO shim it perfectly. So, yea. Just get the kit from Lowes and a dremel...

 

[ArcAngel]

I've done that too. There is a recess in the receiver side that will allow this to work, and actually it works better that way. The trick is to use the original ring as the last ring you put in so it sits on top of those washers. The other up shot to this is allows your shims to not fall out so you only have to worry about one or two shims when you take the barrel off.

OH, but if you do it this way, remember to put the cylinder in FIRST when putting the barrel back and operate the bolt a little as you tighten the last bit to help align the shims, this will help with bolt smoothness

 

[Ding]

I'll offer my opinion on this, as someone that went down the one-piece route. All I can speak from is my own experience, though. I have tech'd quite a few VSRs now and own my own VSR-R, as well as trying many people's rifles when out on the field (as often happens between snipers it seems!). I can say, with honestly, that my VSR-R outperforms them. Granted, we're not talking night-and-day differences as this is all basically fine-tuning, but it is noticeable.

At the end of the day, we are trying to make a 6mm perfectly round plastic ball be as accurate as possible, at the extremes of ranges possible, within our legal limitations, and we are doing it with toy guns made from pot metal! Now, if you rebuild the platform with better materials, tolerances and design, you will definitely achieve better accuracy as you are eliminating as many of those factors of inaccuracy as possible. All that's left is the inherent behaviour of bbs in an open (windy) environment, which we cannot control, that will cause inaccuracy.

With the one-piece unit you have a 100% consistent nozzle/bucking engagement every cycle and the barrel group and power group are perfectly aligned.

You're absolutely right that a one-piece action needs to be supported by other modifications too, such as better guide rings, in order to maximise its effectiveness. I chose to have an acetal copolymer sleeve milled to match my cylinder, which means that the cylinder is moving exactly in the same plane and distance each cycle too. I will admit that the sleeve adds a little friction to the pull, but a small squirt of silicon oil on the exterior of the cylinder when setting up in the morning and it's all good. Another tweak to remove another variable of inaccuracy in the VSR platform. It was rather expensive, though.
I also shimmed my hop unit and did other mods to the way the action sits in the stock which helped stiffen things up too.

The solid receiver also means that flex from movement and forces such as shooting positions or supporting the weapon on surfaces are removed too as it is much stronger and also seems to vibrate far less.

When I discuss this with other snipers, it seems the governing factor as to whether it's worth going to these lengths is whether or not you can justify the extra cost to see those smaller performance gains in comparison to the standard upgrades. A few hundred euros can turn a factory sniper into a competitor, but a few hundred more doesn't give the same leap in performance. You can either see the value or not. Using more cost-effective methods like OP, you are still doing the same thing, just with a little more room for errors.

For me, being able to reliably hit exposed elbows and hands at long ranges is worth the expense

 

[Bighoss357]

Would this work with a lancer tactical lt20 m82 sniper? I have a pretty big accuracy issue with mine, it hits pretty hard up close around 30 to 40 yards but isnt consistent at that range. I hit off and on with a sheet of printer paper so its pretty bad, also you should make a video showing this process as its a little confusing to read and fully understand.

 

[john3302]

I've probably mentioned this in passing before somewhere on here but I don't think I ever really got into it.

We spend hundreds of dollars on inner barrels, buckings, chambers etc etc etc to get that perfect accuracy and shot to shot consistency. Then we take all those parts what do we do. We put them into an outer barrel that either wobbles or is secured, usually at an angle, with a crummy set screw and expect out flexable plastic stocks to hold everything straight and inline. Then we expect each round to come out of that wibbly wobbly barrel in a straight line shot after shot! After a while we do one of 4 things.

1. we live with it, hey, its accurate enough i guess for most when you re used to AEGs
2. we crank down the set screw to try to take the as much of the wobble out, strip the receiver, give up and go back to number 1.
3. We give up and buy a VSR X
4. We REALLY give up and go to the dark side. SSG24 and post youtube vids about how solid it is.

Well, i'm going to give you a 5th option, and its going to cost you about 5 bucks and less than an hour. Interested yet?

So lets talk about what makes the VSR X and the SSG such accurate platforms. We know that the quality of the internals matter, but lets just say everything is equal in this department since the VSR X will use the same upgraded parts that any VSR does and the SSG parts are close to the upgrades we are all used to and have talked to death on this forum.

So what is it then? Why are those platforms so consistent compaired to your upgraded BAR 10 if all the internal you have are better than the SSG and are whats dropping into that shiney new VSR X

Brother.... Its your barrel. More precisely , the joint between your barrel and the receiver. See, any flex in this area will cause your round to go off target from shot to shot. What we often don't notice is that every time we pull that bolt, we are putting both lateral and vertical pressure on the stock which is causing a small amount of flex. Then we slam the piston forward when we fire. Both of these actions cause that joint to flex ever so slightly and that little bit of flex is enough cause our rounds to change trajectories from shot to shot, in some cases, the effect is very profound especially at the ranges we are shooting at. The VSR X fixes this by precisely machining this joint (or making it all once piece and eliminating this joint) I've never taken an SSG apart, so im not sure how solid that joint is , but i know that fiber glass stock is a dam tank and it could keep everything lined up less flex than our VSR stocks can.

Here is the fix:

Buy these

Danco Cap Thread Gasket(35544B) - Gaskets & Packing - Ace Hardware

and

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Brasscr...ap-Thread-Gaskets-for-Burlington-Faucets-Pair

The two washers are different thickness so you can mix and match for better results.

These fiber washers are the same diameter as our cylinder guides and they are super thin.

Now the goal here is to make the reciever and the barrel act as one solid piece once you're done. You want it monolithic and solid like the VSR X is.

step 1:

Take your rifle out of the stock but don't unscrew your barrel. Leave it exactly where it is.

Step 2:

With masking tape or a white paint pen mark your barrel at the joint right where it meets the receiver.

Step 3:

Unscrew your barrel and add one or two of these washers and screw on your barrel. it may be only one or it could be 3, each setup will be different. The goal here is to use just enough washers so that when you screw your barrel on and your barrel block is in the right spot, the mark you made with the masking tape or paint mark should be just barely farther away from the receiver than it was when it was in the known correct spot. If one washer dose it you're good, if not add another, but don't over do it, you want to use the minimum number of washer that you need to just get it out a fraction of a mill more than the perfect spot.

Step 4: The important part

Now this is where the time and patience come in. Unscrew your barrel and remove one of the thinker washers you put in. You may only need one washer , if so , remove that one. Get yourself some sand paper and lay it flat on the bench. Now with you fingers flat on the washer, sand of material from the flat side of the washer, either side will do. Basicly your just making it thinner. Take a little off at a time, and put it back and screw your barrel back on TIGHT. Don't strip it , but tighten it to the point that it stops solid. The more solid the better.

Now check the allignment between the barrel block and the trigger. Keep taking the barrel off and sanding down the fiber washer and retesting. Do this until when you tighten down the barrel all the way , everything lines up perfect!

Congratulations, you now have an accurate rifle now go make a video so we can all laugh at the arrogant newbee with the SSG you just shot.... twice... in the head... and once in the nuts because he didn't call it. Aim for the left nut, you can hit it now!

A few tips to keep in mind.

1. it is better to sand to little than too much, you can always remove more

2. The washers will compress some so when you are close to perfect, back the barrel off a half turn and screw it back on several times until the washers seat right and they finish compressing

3. dont over torque your outer barrel too much. these threads are hard to strip , but it can still be done, you want to get this just right, compressing the washers like I said should keep you from accidently over torquing and giving you a nice solid dead stop.

4. take your time, dont force this. A little sanding now will buy you hits latter.

5. If you still have a set screw, ditch it, you dont need it and it just screws up threads anyway.

Ulitmately, this mod won't magicly transform your rifle into the wonder that is the CNC machined (or how ever it's made ) perfection that is the VSR X or VSR R, but it will make it so you don't NEED one to get dam near close to the same results down range and with the right upgrades, you can certainly out perform an SSG. Not that we couldn't already but every little bit helps on the field

I still want a VSR X but that's just me dreaming bigger than my wallet :hehe:

In the second link the product has been discontinued. I guess just using the Danco 31/32 1 1/8 gasket and filing more will work.

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Brasscra...n-Faucets-Pair

 

[john3302]

Curious if anyone has a source on some of these gaskets similar to the ones linked in the OP post. The links from the initial post are either dead or the product is not available.

I know there are some available from 3D print online stores but I'd prefer to just find and sand some cheap gaskets down from Lowes/Home Depot/etc online if possible.

Any helps appreciated.

Like I mentioned before, someone should 3d print a larger quantity, it would be a lot cheaper and sell them to other VSR-10 owners or have a co-op and pre-order. It could be done with other parts too. The problem is the 3d printing being off spec, as some people have complained, but if you printed 3 or 4 variations of slightly different sizes, it would work better.

A local 3d printing company quoted me at $35 for one ring but the cost came down to around $4 per ring for 100. I think most owners would pay $20 or so for a kit of various sizes they could easily custom fit. I wonder why AA or Laylax or even Angel custom don't sell something like this, plus a sleeve for the barrel just before the hop up.

 

[Zapper]

Like I mentioned before, someone should 3d print a larger quantity, it would be a lot cheaper and sell them to other VSR-10 owners or have a co-op and pre-order. It could be done with other parts too. The problem is the 3d printing being off spec, as some people have complained, but if you printed 3 or 4 variations of slightly different sizes, it would work better.

A local 3d printing company quoted me at $35 for one ring but the cost came down to around $4 per ring for 100. I think most owners would pay $20 or so for a kit of various sizes they could easily custom fit. I wonder why AA or Laylax or even Angel custom don't sell something like this, plus a sleeve for the barrel just before the hop up.

I tried 3d printing a few types of shim washers and inserts from PLA but had a nightmare getting the printer to achieve the correct thickness (needed 0.6mm) despite lots of bed-levelling, calibration and using rafts. Also toyed with the idea of an insert with a shoulder that acts as the shim washer (you could add extra shims to achieve the correct indexing). Being plastic I suppose they're acting as crush-washers, but I found them a bit unreliable: one day the barrel-action was tight, the next it wobbled slightly.

The sizes for barrel shims are really awkward, although there are firms who will cut custom shapes and sizes from shim stock, but the cost is prohibitive for very small orders...I had tried stainless steel washers but the 0.3mm ones I bought on eBay took forever to cut to the correct size. They looked awful and were easily damaged.

Eventually gave up and simply removed around 0.3mm of the outer barrel with a fine gunsmithing file. The outer barrel now indexes almost perfectly: there's a tiny bit of play due to the retention slot in the barrel being oversized compared to the M3 socket bolt. I'll fix that eventually too.

It's a simple enough job, just take it very slow and keep checking how the outer barrel is indexing when you rethread it into the receiver (be sure your threads are free from metal filings each time!).

I got very close to the correct alignment, then used wet 240 grit sanding paper to take a tiny bit more off and then cleaned up the edges.

 

[SiliconeSword]

I just ended up lathing my outer barrel similar to you, and then I made a 5 inch Delrin cylinder sleeve that connected the outer barrel and receiver and helped to center them. Of course after boring the receiver as it wasn't round....
Then once I got to a point where I was happy, I filled the threads on the receiver and outer barrel with the 24 hour JB weld and hung it vertically from a string until it was cured.
Looking back on it I should have made a longer cylinder sleeve, but soon I'll be making another and I'll probably sell my current one.

 

[Zapper]

I just ended up lathing my outer barrel similar to you, and then I made a 5 inch Delrin cylinder sleeve that connected the outer barrel and receiver and helped to center them. Of course after boring the receiver as it wasn't round....
Then once I got to a point where I was happy, I filled the threads on the receiver and outer barrel with the 24 hour JB weld and hung it vertically from a string until it was cured.
Looking back on it I should have made a longer cylinder sleeve, but soon I'll be making another and I'll probably sell my current one.

I went from requiring a 0.6mm shim to turn the o/b through 225°, to removing 0.36mm (apparently) so it could turn another 135° and sit flush against the shoulder inside the Maple Leaf receiver. The ML has a separate ledge to allow the o/b to tighten up against it, but I believe that some VSR-pattern rifles lack this and use a longer front cylinder guide to index the outer barrel?

Anyway, the rifle is still feeding properly and the seal between hop-up rubber and cylinder head is a little better too (I'm using an AA Teflon cylinder and the head that came with it is a millimetre or two shorter than a Airsoft Pro one I have in my parts bin).

The Delrin insert is a great idea. If there were a bit of extra material inside the outer barrel it should be possible use a threaded insert to help keep the barrel aligned correctly whilst at the same time distributing any stresses over a larger area.