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Maybe you should use an electric heater to keep the garage warm enough to dry the paint. Just don't keep the electric heater unintended due to fire hazard. Maybe you could try using brush type of paints instead of spray paint, then you could do it inside the house where it is warmer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #62 ·
There is a heater/radiator in the garage, but I guess it couldn't keep up with the cold :p
I have seen some guy brush-paint camouflage on youtube, but I don't really like it, I'll stick with spraypaint. Just need to get warmer outside and it will be fine.
 

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Try a stand alone separate heater. I have a few kW electric heater to use in the garage when it's too cold so I can still do hobby stuff in it. Figured it would work alright for painting.

Costs a few bucks worth of electricity to keep it running for a while though... :hehe:
 

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Discussion Starter · #65 ·
I have seen a short suppressed SVD on google, almost decided to build that instead of this one :p but I'm sick of AEG-platforms, and to poor for hpa, so boltaction is the way for me i guess :p
would love pictures :)
 

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It is a bolt action. Recently, I converted it to hpa with Mancraft's SVD HPA SDiK, and put an m4 quadrail on it, but before all of that, it was just a spring powered svd that I put an old shorter barrel in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #67 ·
A small update. I got some time this morning to sit down with my gun. I resulted in some minor visual modifications. I did not have my camera nearby so I hope a crappy phone-picture will atleast satisfy your curiosity.

I added some .222 casings to the front of the stock, inspired by biathlon rifles, and it came out great!


you can also see how the sight came out, and thankfully the camera on my phone is bad enough to hide most of the bad paint :p
 

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Hey Ex, have you tested the stock performance on this gun yet? I haven't gotten my new barrel & hopup chamber in the mail yet (nor the R-hop tubing), but I've taken a few shots with it with the stock components.

It's not bad, to be fair! I've done some shots at 20' and 110'. I've got a 2" grouping at 20' and I was able to land 17/20 shots on a 10x10" target at 110'. Obviously this is nowhere near good enough (for me, I want 250fts consistent body shots :hehe:), but I suppose since you're playing CQB, 110' consistent body shots would be pretty nice, no?

I've use .36g P&J bb's by the way, they're pretty crap AFAIK but they're the only "heavy" bb's I have atm, and I gotta say that the performance I've seen today isn't too bad. I have yet to get some .3g green devil bb's though :hehe:

Thoughts on this? How does yours perform?
 

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Discussion Starter · #70 ·
I did some shooting before I started modding but only some short distances. But it was pretty much consistent with your results. You can read in the first post my goals for accuracy on this project, but ultimatly I want to shoot though a key-hole at 20m :p. Im thinking of buying a better hopup unit and barrel maybe closer to the summer, might give me what Im looking for.
I am really impressed by the stock preformance of the MB06. I think it's a good platform even for DIY-modders like me. Im going to do some morse testing when Im done with the mods to see how far you can take this gun without buying any aftermarket parts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #72 ·
More accurate then a stock AEG was kinda expected. But yeah really impressed, also by the internal parts. Cylinder and c.head is nice for stock parts. It is actually only the retractable M4-stock that makes this gun feel cheep.
 

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Discussion Starter · #74 ·
What stock did you replace yours with? what brand?

I just modified the cylinderhead, was really easy to do and turned out great!
 

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Hehe, it's the stock from my JG G36 (608-6). Not sure you can buy them separately though, but it looks pretty nice. And doesn't wobbe:



EDIT: Bottom gun, obviously :hehe:
 

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Discussion Starter · #76 ·
Hehe I like your edit there :p

I would like somthing like a CQB "battle-axe"-styled stock. Might get one later on.

I ported the cylinder again this morning. But it's too cold outside to even chrono the gun with the new port. So that have to wait a couple of days. I'll let you know how it goes!
 

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Discussion Starter · #77 ·
Update 8
Alright, we got some milder weather here today, only -7 Celsius. So I cronoed my gun with the new port.

Results were a bit unsuspected, I gained even more m/s this time. But I think I got a better seal on the cylinderhead this time and I also polished the cylinder, bot could influence the velocity. Since the increase wasn't that big I'm gonna go ahead with the build anyway, and maybe circle back to this in the future if it turns out to be a problem. I started at 125m/s, then cut the spring down to 105m/s, and now after porting the cylinder I'm back at 120m/s. So I have to cut the spring a lot more, hope it's long enough :p

I ended up with a 52mm long "effective"-cylinder, more then 60% of the volume have been removed. With a 255mm barrel I will get a ratio of 1:1.93.

Onwards I go! Barrel-cut is the next step.
 

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Discussion Starter · #79 ·
A widebore sure is a good option, but since I wont be shooting heavy BBs or at high FPS I don't think I'll be able to take full advantage of a widebore barrel. The spring wont be strong enough to push the air out fast enough so I will probably lose a lot of fps, and the .20 BBs will fly in what ever direction they feel like anyhow :p But you are correct, a wider bore barrel would normally give me more accuracy.
Since I'm going to shoot at fairly short distances, with 0 MED, I think I'll gain the most buy putting a tightbore in the gun, but that will be for later.
 
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