This is my review of the PWD MR-30 airsoft rifle including pictures and a step by step break down. Enjoy:
To start, here is the rifle its self. It has a one of a kind look and is constructed by CNC machined aluminum for the body and CNC machined steal and other metals for its internals. In all honesty this is the sturdiest rifle out there. There has never been such an impressive combination of build quality and performance. When I bought it, I was told it was chronoing at 520fps w/ .20s; turns out it was pushing 630fps w/ .20s and that is after the sp210 spring inside had been cut down. This gun has awesome power but yet its trigger unit still allows a short, crisp trigger pull. Featuring a heavy full metal piston, one might think this beast would tear itself apart; however, because of the fantastic craftsmanship and material used in the vital parts, this is not close to reality. With great consistency, a nice barrel, and a tweaked hop up, the MR-30 is reaching out with awesome precision and has the looks to kill already.
I really don't know how to describe the quality of the MR-30; words just don't do it justice.
Now here is the breakdown guide:
First step will be to remove your scope by unscrewing your scope rings(yellow arrow)
Secondly, take out the screws attaching the upper receiver mount piece(circled in blue) The scope rail can be removed by two screws(circled in red)
Now you will have the rifle in three pieces: The body(yellow I), the upper(yellow II), and the receiver/barrel/trigger grouping(yellow III). Remove two screws(in blue) to detach the trigger unit from the receiver. [Note the screw attaching holding the hopup unit in place, I'll come back to that]
To take apart the trigger box, unscrew five screws to take off the left panel(circled in blue). Unscrew the screw in front and in back to take the entire unit off of the receiver(circled in red).
Once this is done, you now can admire/'dick around with' your steel composed trigger set. Trigger return spring(outlinded dashed yellow) Long sear reset spring(outlined dashed green) The pins(teal dots), The shims(blue dashes), and the trigger pull adjustment screw(outlined in red)
To take the bolt handle off, simply remove the screw pins from both sides of the cap(circled in red) and everything slides off revealing the 'barrings'(circled in blue), the barring springs(blue arrow points), and the hole that the cap pins screw through(also circled in red)
With the cylinder in hand, simply unscrew the cylinder head to separate all its parts out. Spring guide w/ ball barrings(blue arrow), 90 degree piston end(red arrow), only plastic internal part[very dense plastic though] are two rings that the O-ring sits between(in yellow section). A major plus to this rifle is its large diameter cylinder which allows a much larger amount of potential energy to be stored when the rifle is cocked because of the larger volume of air yet use a weaker spring( diameter marked in black)
Now back to the hop up... Remove the screw on the bottom of the barrel just forward of the mag input cut out; the inner barrel/hopup unit slides out the receiver. Until I could order a high quality barrel and bucking, I had a madbull 6.03 and bucking. Two loosened screws detaches the hopup unit(red arrows), I had two barrel spaces on(outlined green)
Located on the top of the unit is the arm and slot for nub. I have a shimmed arm(shims marked green) Rod that the arm pivots on(dotted red line)
After taking off the hopup unit, you can work with the bucking; I used some strong thread, now using unwaxed floss, to tie down the bucking for the greatest air seal possible(red arrow). Hopup unit-inner barrel stabilizer(blue arrow). I have also shaved down the ridge on the inside of the bucking; obviously some tried and tested tweaks from the DMR Holy Grail.
The breakdown is complete
Here is a little secret to my rifle success:
Thats right, PWNED! Eat that shredders nub and VSR unit!!!
I have a custom hop up I made in there; greatest performance I've seen out of a hop up unit, details classified.
In the end, all of this just boils down to another hunk of metal fashion in the image of real rifle and build to shoot plastic bbs at the OPFOR but I must say, this is a really unique rifle; not only is it rare with ~100 made but it really shows its strength on the field. I couldn't ask for a better rifle