Feel dizzy when read............
The Quest for the Quiet Sniper Rifle (Non-HPA)(JB Bar 10 G-spec)
The Quest for the Quiet Sniper Rifle (Non-HPA)(JB Bar 10 G-spec)
Jordan Stumpf
This project/quest began when I realized that although my heavily upgraded JG bar 10 shooting at 613fps on .2 and 423 fps on .46s can reach out quite far and very accurately, its loud(side note I don't normally run this 170 spring but at the time of writing it was what is currently in it), even with all the sound dampening I was able to perform for it. Now I love the range aspect of this rifle and how the BB can get to its target fast , but at my local fields I tend to find myself a bit close for its use, mainly at my main field of Xtreme in Milstadt IL.(do note I normally run the 150 spring when at this field) So I have devised a plan to have a rifle that can still hit out far but at or sub 1.5 joules and the platform I chose once again was the JG Bar 10 but this time the G-Spec for its shortness so I can be nimble and lower my profile a little bit by not using the suppressor. The Gun advertises 400~450fps on .2s but the one I received shot 379 at best(was more like a range of 350-380) on .2 and 276(varying) on .36s which will be my intended weight. This was lacking by a lot and can pose some issue as I am not fully removing the air-brake from this rifle as it helps to keep the noise down from the piston impact on the cylinder head. I Shall explain how to Increase performance of the gun with low cost items, how to Sound dampen the Rifle, and non expensive aftermarket parts that will also improve the Performance.
So as many other airsoft techs would say, compression seal is key for the maximum performance from the stock power-plant(power-plant meaning the cylinder components and trigger assembly) to do this I am going to re-lubricate the piston spring and guide along with the sears that it makes contact with. Factory lubrication may not be applied correctly and could loose seal on the o-ring of the piston. I used super lube PTFE as I have it on hand and it does not damage plastics and last longer than typical oil, but any lubrication that does not damage plastics will do. Before putting the cylinder back together use Teflon tape on the cylinder head to produce a better seal on the threads, most aftermarket cylinder heads will perform better than stock as the O-ring sits at the top of the cylinder where as stock sits at the start of the threads. Using Teflon tape will correct this on a stock cylinder head. From there the compression loss will occur from the cylinder nozzle meeting the bucking, most will say it is just best to get an aftermarket cylinder head, but you can use glue from a hot glue gun and bevel it on on the "steps" of the nozzle, Teflon tape can be used but be warned as it will need to be replaced from time to time. After that the has bit of compression to focus on will be the the bucking to inner-barrel loss. To over come this just use the Teflon tape to wrap the downstream end around the barrel and bucking so air will not escape through the mating surface of the bucking to inner barrel.(It now shoots consistently at 372 on .2 where as before it was all over the place, this also shows that the stock spring is still braking in and will become weaker with more use but now the random inconsistency will not be as bad for those dropped BBs and high fliers, 270 consistently on .36) Next in performance is range which lies with the hop up bucking I can tell you now that in stock the hop-up will not be able to lug a .36 gram BB very far, and that is because not enough pressure can be applied to the bucking for this weight of BB. To overcome this, you will need to put a small spacer between the bucking and hop arm, this will allow for more pressure, meaning more backspin,(will discuss bucking and inner barrel upgrades with aftermarket later). After this you should be able to range really good with a .36 BB, but don't expect any heavier to work(I have a off-brand ASR that I haven't touched internally. It has about the same stock fps as the bar 10 but can toss a .36 gram BB farther that the stock bar 10, this is due to the hop system on the aps2 system allowing more travel for the hop arm to travel as the screw is tightened. Where as the BAR 10 is a slide lever. There are aftermarket hop chambers but none allow for simple adjustment like the stock system.) After these tuning tweaks, be sure to test and adjust to ensure everything is aligned properly as hop systems and inner-barrels can be stubborn if not aligned right and send the BB off in a wild direction. My results were that in stock the hop system could not produce a backspin well enough that the bb still had a regular curved drop when coming out of the barrel and may have been only effective at 100-150 feet on .36, now lighter bbs took better that the 36s but can be very inaccurate, .3 would be the lowest I would go. Now after adding the spacer I was almost able to have the same range as my stock ASR that is at about the same velocity on .36s. Which is about 200 feet but its cutting it close as it drop's almost instantly right before 200 feet. Now this improvement for .36 gram bbs is good for the field I am on since most of the fields are small at xtreme, even at Bing field in Alton IL. I could manage to get closer since my joules are sub 1.5 meaning I can shoot anyone just after 20 feet. Where my very powerful JG Bar-10 had a minimum engagement of 100 feet which knocked out half of the field to be able to shoot.
Now For Sound dampening you can use anything soft you can get your hands on. I prefer Foam bought online but using old rags and clothing is just as effective but may lead to a heavier rifle. First I am going to talk about the piston noise, since the air-brake is still on there I advise not cut it off as it helps reduce the noise from the piston slamming the cylinder head. Next is the PVC Mod. A foot of PVC is enough to create 2 and can be bought cheap at a hardware store. It helps for a smoother pull when done correctly. Do note that at first the pvc mod may be a little tough depending on how well and much you sanded. (This isn't needed as much as others but does help with the metal clatter from the slop in the barrel portion. I neglect using this as its more of a mod for decreasing wear on the cylinder and cylinder head, also I am lazy.) After that its filling the stock up with foam or other material so the vibration does not echo throughout the hollow stock, don't forget to stuff the butt of the stock as well. Lastly would be to buy some copper pipe insulation foam and a long piece usually runs like 4usd. This will be used between the inner and outer-barrel to dampen and reduce barrel vibration. You will need to cut down the separation of the foam to help reduce the diameter of the foam so it can fit into the barrel. After this you should have an almost silent rifle, the majority of the noise should be the air leaving the front of the barrel, some will be from the piston slam but as long as the air brake is still there it will not be to bad. Adding the suppressor may help the air noise but you will sacrifice the mobility of not having it.
Aftermarket parts can replace a lot of the things done in this project like cylinder-heads, hop-up chambers, and even upgrading the power-plant, but since my goal is 1.5 joules max, I felt the stock configuration would be the best option also had this planned as a more budget orientated build. But there are a few upgrades from the aftermarket that I would recommend, first is the Maple leaf hop up bucking has it has the best contact patch out of all the buckings I have used,(please note that the maple leaf buckings will need a open hop window on the inner-barrel. If this is not present it will not work, to still use the stock inner-barrel you will need to cut and file the hop window so it can be used, buying the next upgrade would remove this factor and is what I did) and an action army inner-barrel that is tighter than stock your pick between the 6.01 or the 6.03 both will work great.(These barrels will come with an already open hop window.) These should run about 55usd together. And will greatly improve range and accuracy.
Thanks for looking through this guide/project, quest thing as it was very fun to do and build my own research on for spring airsoft sniper rifles. So if you followed this guide for increasing performance on a stock gun, dampening the sound, and the low cost aftermarket upgrades you should have furthered the potential of the gun. I hope these helped you create a great piece to experience on the field. Stay safe
Afterthoughts and Notes
FPS increase with new Bucking and inner-barrel 373 fps on .2s but shot 285 on .36 which was an increase of 15fps this proves that a tight-bore barrel is much more effective with heavier weight bbs.
During use of this rifle I noticed that it has a tendency to double feed, finding a small but tougher spring to put behind the bb stopper in the hop up chamber. Although not recommended you could stretch the spring to be stiffer, but again I do not recommended this. Just find a spring in a pencil or pen that feels stiffer be sure to find the right size of course.
The Spacer I used on the stock hop up was a piece of pencil eraser that was cut and filed down to fit in the two bars of the hop up arm. This has improved the range greatly and is a must to avoid aftermarket solutions or doing the Top dead center mod and distorting the look of the rifle.
Sources of info and going all out on a sniper
https://www.airsoftsniperforum.com/41-vsr-rifles/6075-advanced-vsr-sniper-building-guide.html
https://www.airsoftsniperforum.com/41-vsr-rifles/10635-ultimate-guide-your-vsr-10-a.html
Jordan Stumpf
This project/quest began when I realized that although my heavily upgraded JG bar 10 shooting at 613fps on .2 and 423 fps on .46s can reach out quite far and very accurately, its loud(side note I don't normally run this 170 spring but at the time of writing it was what is currently in it), even with all the sound dampening I was able to perform for it. Now I love the range aspect of this rifle and how the BB can get to its target fast , but at my local fields I tend to find myself a bit close for its use, mainly at my main field of Xtreme in Milstadt IL.(do note I normally run the 150 spring when at this field) So I have devised a plan to have a rifle that can still hit out far but at or sub 1.5 joules and the platform I chose once again was the JG Bar 10 but this time the G-Spec for its shortness so I can be nimble and lower my profile a little bit by not using the suppressor. The Gun advertises 400~450fps on .2s but the one I received shot 379 at best(was more like a range of 350-380) on .2 and 276(varying) on .36s which will be my intended weight. This was lacking by a lot and can pose some issue as I am not fully removing the air-brake from this rifle as it helps to keep the noise down from the piston impact on the cylinder head. I Shall explain how to Increase performance of the gun with low cost items, how to Sound dampen the Rifle, and non expensive aftermarket parts that will also improve the Performance.
So as many other airsoft techs would say, compression seal is key for the maximum performance from the stock power-plant(power-plant meaning the cylinder components and trigger assembly) to do this I am going to re-lubricate the piston spring and guide along with the sears that it makes contact with. Factory lubrication may not be applied correctly and could loose seal on the o-ring of the piston. I used super lube PTFE as I have it on hand and it does not damage plastics and last longer than typical oil, but any lubrication that does not damage plastics will do. Before putting the cylinder back together use Teflon tape on the cylinder head to produce a better seal on the threads, most aftermarket cylinder heads will perform better than stock as the O-ring sits at the top of the cylinder where as stock sits at the start of the threads. Using Teflon tape will correct this on a stock cylinder head. From there the compression loss will occur from the cylinder nozzle meeting the bucking, most will say it is just best to get an aftermarket cylinder head, but you can use glue from a hot glue gun and bevel it on on the "steps" of the nozzle, Teflon tape can be used but be warned as it will need to be replaced from time to time. After that the has bit of compression to focus on will be the the bucking to inner-barrel loss. To over come this just use the Teflon tape to wrap the downstream end around the barrel and bucking so air will not escape through the mating surface of the bucking to inner barrel.(It now shoots consistently at 372 on .2 where as before it was all over the place, this also shows that the stock spring is still braking in and will become weaker with more use but now the random inconsistency will not be as bad for those dropped BBs and high fliers, 270 consistently on .36) Next in performance is range which lies with the hop up bucking I can tell you now that in stock the hop-up will not be able to lug a .36 gram BB very far, and that is because not enough pressure can be applied to the bucking for this weight of BB. To overcome this, you will need to put a small spacer between the bucking and hop arm, this will allow for more pressure, meaning more backspin,(will discuss bucking and inner barrel upgrades with aftermarket later). After this you should be able to range really good with a .36 BB, but don't expect any heavier to work(I have a off-brand ASR that I haven't touched internally. It has about the same stock fps as the bar 10 but can toss a .36 gram BB farther that the stock bar 10, this is due to the hop system on the aps2 system allowing more travel for the hop arm to travel as the screw is tightened. Where as the BAR 10 is a slide lever. There are aftermarket hop chambers but none allow for simple adjustment like the stock system.) After these tuning tweaks, be sure to test and adjust to ensure everything is aligned properly as hop systems and inner-barrels can be stubborn if not aligned right and send the BB off in a wild direction. My results were that in stock the hop system could not produce a backspin well enough that the bb still had a regular curved drop when coming out of the barrel and may have been only effective at 100-150 feet on .36, now lighter bbs took better that the 36s but can be very inaccurate, .3 would be the lowest I would go. Now after adding the spacer I was almost able to have the same range as my stock ASR that is at about the same velocity on .36s. Which is about 200 feet but its cutting it close as it drop's almost instantly right before 200 feet. Now this improvement for .36 gram bbs is good for the field I am on since most of the fields are small at xtreme, even at Bing field in Alton IL. I could manage to get closer since my joules are sub 1.5 meaning I can shoot anyone just after 20 feet. Where my very powerful JG Bar-10 had a minimum engagement of 100 feet which knocked out half of the field to be able to shoot.
Now For Sound dampening you can use anything soft you can get your hands on. I prefer Foam bought online but using old rags and clothing is just as effective but may lead to a heavier rifle. First I am going to talk about the piston noise, since the air-brake is still on there I advise not cut it off as it helps reduce the noise from the piston slamming the cylinder head. Next is the PVC Mod. A foot of PVC is enough to create 2 and can be bought cheap at a hardware store. It helps for a smoother pull when done correctly. Do note that at first the pvc mod may be a little tough depending on how well and much you sanded. (This isn't needed as much as others but does help with the metal clatter from the slop in the barrel portion. I neglect using this as its more of a mod for decreasing wear on the cylinder and cylinder head, also I am lazy.) After that its filling the stock up with foam or other material so the vibration does not echo throughout the hollow stock, don't forget to stuff the butt of the stock as well. Lastly would be to buy some copper pipe insulation foam and a long piece usually runs like 4usd. This will be used between the inner and outer-barrel to dampen and reduce barrel vibration. You will need to cut down the separation of the foam to help reduce the diameter of the foam so it can fit into the barrel. After this you should have an almost silent rifle, the majority of the noise should be the air leaving the front of the barrel, some will be from the piston slam but as long as the air brake is still there it will not be to bad. Adding the suppressor may help the air noise but you will sacrifice the mobility of not having it.
Aftermarket parts can replace a lot of the things done in this project like cylinder-heads, hop-up chambers, and even upgrading the power-plant, but since my goal is 1.5 joules max, I felt the stock configuration would be the best option also had this planned as a more budget orientated build. But there are a few upgrades from the aftermarket that I would recommend, first is the Maple leaf hop up bucking has it has the best contact patch out of all the buckings I have used,(please note that the maple leaf buckings will need a open hop window on the inner-barrel. If this is not present it will not work, to still use the stock inner-barrel you will need to cut and file the hop window so it can be used, buying the next upgrade would remove this factor and is what I did) and an action army inner-barrel that is tighter than stock your pick between the 6.01 or the 6.03 both will work great.(These barrels will come with an already open hop window.) These should run about 55usd together. And will greatly improve range and accuracy.
Thanks for looking through this guide/project, quest thing as it was very fun to do and build my own research on for spring airsoft sniper rifles. So if you followed this guide for increasing performance on a stock gun, dampening the sound, and the low cost aftermarket upgrades you should have furthered the potential of the gun. I hope these helped you create a great piece to experience on the field. Stay safe
Afterthoughts and Notes
FPS increase with new Bucking and inner-barrel 373 fps on .2s but shot 285 on .36 which was an increase of 15fps this proves that a tight-bore barrel is much more effective with heavier weight bbs.
During use of this rifle I noticed that it has a tendency to double feed, finding a small but tougher spring to put behind the bb stopper in the hop up chamber. Although not recommended you could stretch the spring to be stiffer, but again I do not recommended this. Just find a spring in a pencil or pen that feels stiffer be sure to find the right size of course.
The Spacer I used on the stock hop up was a piece of pencil eraser that was cut and filed down to fit in the two bars of the hop up arm. This has improved the range greatly and is a must to avoid aftermarket solutions or doing the Top dead center mod and distorting the look of the rifle.
Sources of info and going all out on a sniper
https://www.airsoftsniperforum.com/41-vsr-rifles/6075-advanced-vsr-sniper-building-guide.html
https://www.airsoftsniperforum.com/41-vsr-rifles/10635-ultimate-guide-your-vsr-10-a.html
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
lol wasn't my intentionFeel dizzy when read............
Now if you had dB meter
If you match the cylinder to barrel to bb weight ratio, this will reduce a lot/most of the sound. You can even cut the air brake off. I don't have one on my rifle. If you don't have the air brake you can use a weaker spring which means a faster bolt pull.
Instead of using an air brake, try pulling a soft, dense piece of foam that is about 5mm thick. Cut it into a circle so that it fits perfectly cylinder head hole. So it seals the hole so no sound can get in.
My 600fps Bar10 rifle is only 78.9dB while a Socom pistol (The quietest pistol) is 81.7dB.
I didn't even fill the stock with foam. If you fill the stock it may be a little bit quieter but not by much. The weight is more of a disadvantage.
This thread may help a little too. It has some great info:
https://www.airsoftsniperforum.com/43-longrange-aegs/55923-how-make-quietest-aeg-ever.html
Instead of using an air brake, try pulling a soft, dense piece of foam that is about 5mm thick. Cut it into a circle so that it fits perfectly cylinder head hole. So it seals the hole so no sound can get in.
My 600fps Bar10 rifle is only 78.9dB while a Socom pistol (The quietest pistol) is 81.7dB.
I didn't even fill the stock with foam. If you fill the stock it may be a little bit quieter but not by much. The weight is more of a disadvantage.
This thread may help a little too. It has some great info:
https://www.airsoftsniperforum.com/43-longrange-aegs/55923-how-make-quietest-aeg-ever.html
Thanks 1tonne those are some good tips. As I was making this more budget orientated and driven by the fact i wanted to keep it just under 1.5 joules, i may implement some of these later in time. I also tried out a DB meter using an app on my phone, i dont 100% trust it but it was reading a max of 79-80db
Phone apps are not reliable from what I have been told. I use a proper dB meter from Aliexpress. They are cheap.
Perhaps in the future I will get one
Have to be honest here, I couldn't read it, because it's not well construed at all. Was there anything worth noting?
sorry this is the case, is there anything that will help fix it that I could do, it is still very much a rough draft and help would be appreciatedHave to be honest here, I couldn't read it, because it's not well construed at all. Was there anything worth noting?
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
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