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Well, I tried it yesterday in a game. Good lord, two observations, one positive and one negative:

-The thing is ridiculously inconsistent. One bb will drop to the earth, the next will fly up and probably drop somewhere on the moon. Literally, the hop consistency is so laughable, I feel sad having invested so much time in this project. My assault rifle had a better effective range, by far! The regulator's pressure is constant as ever, the fps consistency is decent-ish (430-440 fps, not enough to cause this ridiculousness), the thing just won't shoot straight. Well, it will, straight up or straight down, horizontally the thing was shooting lasers. I am going to try a different maple leaf because this one may be too sensistive, but I am seriously impressed by how bad this is.

-It is ridiculously quiet. It didn't matter that I needed 30 shots to hit a prone person at 50 yards at one point, because the target will never hear a single shot. I'm in love with the quietness, I hate the horrible performance.

I'm gonna see if I can get it up to standards because I do want to use it. It handles well and it is ridiculously quiet.
 

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Cheers, I may try that.

What does the action chamber do though? I kinda like the stock chamber.

I just had an idea though. I think there may be some play between the outer chamber and the inner chamber. That could cause consistency issues because the adjuster is fixed to the reveiver, not the chamber! So I think I'm gonna try to shim that too.
 

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For the KWJ, the aftermarket chambers pretty much just have better tolerances than stock.

But the consistency and accuracy problems with the platform are all about those horrendous tolerances: Wobbly bolt, wobbly mags, loose chamber, wobbly inner barrel... everything that should be snug to keep a good consistency in power and accuracy is actually loose as hell.

People just blame it on the gas, sell the gun and move on, never to use a gas gun again.. But the problem is not the gas itself, but the really crappy built of the KJW M700 in particular.

Anyway, Creation chambers are usually the most recommended, I would place my chips on the newer Action one just because of... reasons. But you have many options to choose from. Some have a better barrel stabiliser, some have longer or better nozzles, etc

Also if you haven't already, place some sort of barrel spacers in there. They make a world of difference.
 

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Huh, did not know there was aftermarket parts for the KJW m700. (Then again, I have not been looking.)
 

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Barrel spacers are obviously in there :tup:

Same for the magazine, I made a one-piece spacer that fits around the rear side of the magazine and it's nice and snug now.

The gas is not the issue. The pressure is super consistent, so it's really airseal / movement in the chamber I think. Cheers :)
 

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The KJW M700 is a clone from the Tanaka M700, only with a not-so-crappy hop unit.

So everything here applies as well, only difference being that you obligatorily need to upgrade the hop unit in the Tanakas.
Yeah, I was mainly looking at the tweaks for consistency and CO2 usage; already got most of the upgrades listed :yup:
 

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OK, back at this thread again. I have now put an action chamber in my M700 and a soft nub rather than a hard nub, it was better but still all over the place....

And then I noticed it... the hopup dial screws into the rail, not into the receiver. Guess what? The rail was loose. How? I don't know! And I don't know how I didn't notice either because my scope was on top of it all the time, but it was loose. I put it down together with a very generous amount of red loctite and that thing is supposed to be on there forever now. I tried shooting it again (with the action chamber, soft nub, 60 degree ML) and suddenly its consistency is acceptable. I also took the shim out of the bolt and fps consistency was still pretty well. I suppose that a loose hopup will mess up the fps consistency as well. It all checks out. The gun is to be used next week and it's doing well. I'm a happy camper :yup:



In other news.... What's so bad about the takedown M700? I recently acquired one in a package deal (one of those deals so good it was basically a freebie). It has the same parts as my other M700 except for the barrel group (AC barrel + W-hold bucking in there). I may try and use it for a bit just to see how it goes...

I must try though, I took it apart and I'm in love with the takedown M700. It's so SIMPLE! The police model is a PITA to get to the barrel group. It's almost like an L96 AWS. You have to take the stock off, then screw the outer barrel off with the rotating disc in front of the chamber, then you can lift the barrel group out of the gun, then you need to dismantle the outer chamber and then remove the inner chamber and then you can clean the barrel and bucking.....

With the takedown version you just break it in half, loosen one screw and the chamber, barrel and bucking all slide out in one go. I really like the method the hopup is applied also! In the police model you have a hopup dial which is attached to a rail which is attached to the receiver which is attached to an outer chamber which is attached to an inner chamber which houses the nub. LOTS of room for play. The takedown chamber is essentially just one screw pushing a nub down which directly pushes down on the bucking. Very little room for play.

I think I'm in love with the takedown. Yes it has its flaws but in all honesty I think it has less play than the police model. Not to mention it is a lot easier to work on! :hehe:
 

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Good to know you've fixed it. It's weird you didn't noticed the loose rail, you scope must have been rattling somewhat.

Most people really don't like the proprietary hop chamber
The hop up chamber does not seal well regardless of what mods you do.
 

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Yeah I kinda feel embarrassed. I've been fixing dozens of guns from people all over the country for over a year now and I manage to keep myself puzzled for almost two months because of a loose screw :doh:

I do think I have an explanation though. The rear rail screw was still secured properly and only the front one was able to move up and down. So when the rail moved up a little, the scope would aim further up and less hopup would be applied so the shot would be low. Kinda explains the huge deviation. Stupid that I didn't notice it earlier because the scope could simply move up and down :doh:

The hop up chamber does not seal well regardless of what mods you do.
Why not? The bucking seals well with the nozzle and I can simply wrap the bucking/barrel with teflon tape. I'm gonna try using it :hehe:
 

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Why not? The bucking seals well with the nozzle and I can simply wrap the bucking/barrel with teflon tape. I'm gonna try using it :hehe:
Please try. And check for compatibility with your typical AA VSR barrel and Maple Leaf bucking. And if possible, if they can somehow use the aftermarket chambers.

I know I'm asking too much... but I have the possibility to land one of those "almost free" deals too, so your input on those issues would be really, really appreciated :D
 

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I'm with Dimitri, I have can pick one up for next to nothing as well. I want to know if there have been changes to it from when it was first released.
 

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I'll take some pictures when I get home but that'll probably be monday or something :shrug:

It can be fitted with an aftermarket chamber. If you get an extra police style hopup dial and an action chamber then you can trim down the top of the action chamber (which is intended for the police model) and fit it in the takedown just fine (the previous owner of this gun actually did that but I took the action chamber out and put it in my police M700 instead :hehe:)

The takedown rail is the same as the police rail and it already has the hole for the hopup adjustment screw... how convenient :yup:

The only downside is that that way you can not take it down without taking the hopup dial out so you'll lose the hop setting when you break it in half but honestly who even does that anyway :hehe:

I'll try putting a maple leaf with a proper nub in the stock chamber. Let's see if it works :)
 

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Alright, a tad late but here goes. Sorry for the out-of-focus pictures. This is the KJW takedown chamber assembly:



The actual chamber is the same dimensions as the M700P chamber, the only difference being that the police chamber is a tad higher. So if you want to fit a police chamber in there you will need to trim down the top:



In the police chamber (and aftermarket chambers) you can apply hopup by pushing down a hopup dial, this pushes down on the nub which is inside the chamber. On the takedown there is no such construction. There's a tiny hex screw that you can adjust from the rear side (so from the side where the bolt would be). This screw is pointy at the front and there is a round metal nub in front of it. The nub is below the axis of the screw so when the screw is screwed in further, the pointy end makes the nub go further down. The nub has nowhere else to go so it's a pretty snug fit. It'll be a pain to get an aftermarket nub in there though. I may try a 3d printed nub :shrug:



If you release the nub all the way, you can simply take the whole bucking/barrel combo out (it's not held in there by any screws). So the bucking is not attached to the chamber, it's only kept aligned by the alignment slot like all VSR buckings. To make sure it doesn't move, the outer barrel assembly actually has an 8.5mm hole for the inner barrel at the base which means the bucking and chamber can't go further down the outer barrel. Once the chamber is pressed against the outer barrel (and secured with another hex screw) the bucking is firmly held in place between the outer barrel construction and the chamber. The barrel has nowhere else to go either, obviously. Neat & simple design, I like it very much.

The inner barrel is not secured so it can rotate a slight bit sideways. Not a big deal since the bucking is aligned so your hopup's contact area will always be aligned as well, but this will be an issue if you ever want to do something like an R-hop in this chamber. Not going to happen because it'll move and be inconsistent. With normal VSR buckings however, works great (in theory) :yup:

I really like it. I'm gonna make a concave nub to fit in the chamber and then I'll put a ML bucking in there. Really eager to see how it does compared to the M700P since the guns will otherwise be having identical setups :hehe:
 

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Upgrade

Hey, tks for the post.

I have i standard KJW M700, and i just need to upgrade bucking, barrel and hop up, without changing to HPA/CO2, i'd like to continue using Green Gas.

Could you please help me with parts list to buy? I did this list, do you think that is needed other parts, or change some of this list?

Bolt Assembly: Spare Part#27~#39 / Complete bolt Assembly for KJW M700 series Airsoft Gas Sniper Rifle. | Evike.com
GG Upgrade Striker Spring: GG Upgrade Striker Spring for Tanaka M700 & M24 Gas Rifle. | Evike.com
Hopup Adjustment Screw: KJW Replacement Hopup Adjustment Screw for Airsoft M700 Sniper Rifle Series (Part #111) | Evike.com
CNC Aluminum Hopup Chamber: G&G CNC Aluminum Hopup Chamber for Tanaka KJW M700 M24 M40A1 Airsoft Gas Sniper Rifles | Evike.com
Rubber Air Seal: G&G Rubber Air Seal Set for Tanaka / KJW M700 Airsoft Sniper Rifle | Evike.com
King Arms Aluminum Air Nozzle: King Arms Aluminum Air Nozzle for Tanaka M700 / A.I.C.S. Sniper Rifle Series (Ver. 2) | Evike.com
Nine Ball VSR-10 Hop Up Bucking: https://www.airsoftatlanta.com/prod...p-up-bucking-also-fits-p226-hi-capa-g26-socom
G&G Gas Route Connector Spring: G&G Gas Route Connector Spring for Tanaka M700 / M24 | Evike.com
G&G Valve Knocker: G&G Valve Knocker for Tanaka M700 / M24 | Evike.com
Angel Custom G2 SUS304 Stainless Steel Precision 6.01mm 630mm: Angel Custom G2 SUS304 Stainless Steel Precision 6.01mm Airsoft Sniper Rifle Tightbore Inner Barrel (Length: 630mm KJW M700) | Evike.com

Tks at all.

My best regards.
Helvio Junior
 
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