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The Ultimate KJW M700 Upgrade Guide

193297 Views 326 Replies 68 Participants Last post by  Baumi
Hey guys!
So I got a request for a build thread on my KJW M700. I know a pretty good amount on this gun, so I thought, why not help others in the process? I also noticed that there isn't really a guide for those with KJW M700s, like 1Tonne's VSR guide, or the Holy Grail to your DMR. Here we go!

First off, there are different routes for upgrading your M700, and this guide shows the many different ways. This means that you need to look and make sure that you are going to route you want, not just linearly going through the guide. Please read the entire guide before attempting upgrading.

The second thing you will need to know is this- If you ever get stuck, EVER, the best thing to do is to put everything down and take a break and think about it. If you still cannot come up with a solution, contact someone. This way there is a much better chance that unnecessary money will not be put into the rifle due to ignorant mistakes.

Lets begin with where I purchased most of everything.! The transactions were smooth and coast to coast shipping went well. Most of the links I provide are from Evike when possible. Just remember that sometimes you will have to venture out to other companies to find you need.
General rule of thumb- if you're not buying what you really need/want, you are wasting your money. Put the extra money into what you really need, not whats cheaper or more convenient.

This guide will take you from this:

To this!

So here we have the gun: Airsoft Guns - Airsoft Guns | Airsoft Guns - Sniper Rifles |
If you plan on buying a KJW M700, do yourself a favor, and buy the standard version! The take-down version will be nothing but a pain! (Don't worry, that ugly front sight comes off!)
Being a green gas/propane powered sniper rifle, the M700 does not perform well out of the box. The PSI of the gas with vary, considering as gas expands it cools, and the colder the gas becomes, the less pressure is inside the magazine. Green gas is very effected by the cold. With this type of power source, expect to see shots that are inconsistent in range and accuracy, in other words, not good for a sniper rifle!

HPA and CO2
This was the first thing I changed (and you should too). I purchased parts from to build an HPA rig. An HPA rig (If done correctly) will keep the PSI of your rifle at a constant value. You should be seeing no more than a 5 PSI difference between shots. This is probably the trickiest part in upgrading you M700, but the best thing you can do. You will first need to drill and tap a 1/8th NPT hole into your magazine. If you do not have the tools, or do not feel comfortable doing this yourself, you can have Palmer's Pursuit Shop do it for you. But if you want to do it yourself, look here: (Thanks to dobey for that!)

First and foremost, I purchased a Tanaka Long Magazine (Tanaka 29rd Hi-Cap Gas Magazine for Tanaka M700 Series Sniper Rifle, Accessories & Parts, Airsoft Gun Magazines, Gas Gun Magazine, Tanaka GGM - Airsoft Superstore). The setup below is based off of this.
There is an alternative to the Tanaka magazine if you'd like the extra rounds without the cost. This magazine is made by Action Army and is nearly identical to the Tanaka, from what I've read. The only downside is that the shell is actually plastic. Here's the link:
AAC-21 28rds Gas Magazine ( Also Work with KJW / Tanaka M700 ) by:

The standard 10-round magazine can still be tapped, nearly all gas magazine can be, but having to reload every ten shots makes it nearly worthless.

Using CO2 in the Stock

These links should be just about everything for having your setup housed in the stock.
(Ok wow… Everybody please thank for recognizing the KJW users, they simplified everything since I first posted :D)

So now everything is consolidated into this:
KJW M700 Macro Line Hose Kit - Airsoft Regulators - Airsoft

This comes with your regulator, fittings, long magazine parts, QD fittings, etc.

Now you just need a smaller gauge like this:
Freeflow 300 PSI Mini Gauge [PNEU029] - $12.00 : Palmers Pursuit Shop, Where Custom Still Means Something
^This is a 1 inch gauge that shows your PSI. It is small enough to fit inside the stock.

And for every long magazine you have after the first, you should get this:
KJW M700 Constant Air Adapter [CAHWPP53] - $25.00 : Palmers Pursuit Shop, Where Custom Still Means Something

And this:
1/8"NPT Male Disconnect Nipple (for Back Check) - Airsoft Fittings - Airsoft

And this:
1/8 NPT Street 90 Elbow - 1/8 NPT - Air Fittings - Industrial

That sums up what you need to buy. Putting it together is all logical, too. Basically, cut the macroline to the size you want. Thats it. To release the push connect fittings, push the ring forward and pull the line out.

Before screwing in the fittings, be sure to add some PTFE (teflon) tape to the threads. Reference picture:

After the kit is assembled, you will need to drill a hole into your stock. Make sure the hole is angled towards the trigger so the tubing can go through freely. Your drill bit should be just 1/4 inch, and widen the hole a little bit.

So here is what your final setup should look like if you choose to go this route:

An issue that arising from having the regulator in your stock is that it rattles around because it is not a perfect fit width wise. This is a very easy fix, just add tape around the edges of the regulator. Just be sure not to tape any threads, moving parts, etc.:

And one final thing about this setup. Your butt plate, which your have pried off by now, has a good chance of falling off. I have had it happen a few times, and if you don't find it, you can't buy a new one without purchasing used or a whole rifle. To fix this, you can make a lanyard. First, you should be using string that is nearly equivalent to that on a ghillie suit. It must have good strength, and fair corrosion resistance. I have some left over sail ties so I will be using those in this portion of the guide. These are pretty good to use, they are waxed, thick and strong. Knots in these sailing ties do not come undone easily, so they'll do. If you do not have any of these laying around, you can use fishing string (usually greater than 6 lbs strength) or dental floss. What you will want to do here is create a noose. If you don't know how, Google is your friend. Some videos mention to make seven turns, but here we can use less, I used two.
Now you will want to unscrew the bipod stud mount in the stock. Put the open noose around the screw when it is through the stock. Pull as hard as you can and tighten the noose. Re-screw the stud and now you have the stock end of the plate retention:

Now you can go to the butt plate and drill a hole through the bottom end. Feed your string through the hole and create another noose. Now you should have a completed lanyard for your plate:

If you want an alternative to running your rig inside the stock but still don't want the HPA tank on your back, heres another way. You can take a rail of ant length and attach it to the bottom of your stock by drilling two holes into the stock to meet with the holes for screws in the rail. Now you can take two screws with nuts and hold the nut on the inside of the stock while you screw in the screw. Now that you have the rail secured to the stock, you can take a 30mm scope ring and attach it to the regulator (How perfect, the regulator's diameter is 30mm!). This will allow you to then install the regulator onto the outside of your stock. Here is how mine looked:

And here is how it should look when the rig is completed:

Using an HPA Tank
For those of you who want to use an actual HPA tank and carry it on your back, the necessary items are just about the same, but this link simplifies it. This will be the only thing from Palmer's that you will need to run HPA. It comes with the necessary products to run a full kit, but once again it comes with that pre-tapped chamber that requires the Tanaka Long Magazine. If you have the standard 10 round magazine, you can still use the below-linked kit, you just need to unscrew the brass fittings from the chamber and screw them into your tapped magazine.

You will also need to purchase an HPA tank: [url=] Airsoft Guns - Accessories & Parts | Airsoft Guns - BB & Gas | Airsoft Guns - HPA Tanks |

HPA vs. CO2

So whats the difference?
HPA (high pressure air) and literally just the air we breath compressed in a can. It is stored as a compressed gas and is very rarely affected by the cold. I prefer this system since CT can see below freezing temps and its easy to work with. I don't mind the tank or line.
CO2 is just carbon dioxide in a 12g canister. It is stored as a liquid, and can sometimes lose pressure due to cold weather. I stopped using CO2 in my stock since I continued to have the issue of liquid CO2 bypassing the regulator and bursting my gauges, macroline, and now my push connect. This is non existent in HPA. Another issue is that you got to reload the CO2 every 100 shots or so. In the stock, reloading CO2 is a slow and difficult process. If you go this route, be sure to change CO2 at a convenient time, and not when its required.

The next thing you will want is a new barrel. If you are coming from a VSR or other spring rifle platform, you may have heard of balancing you barrel to cylinder ratio. Great thing there is no need to do that on this rifle because it has no cylinder to get a value from. So forget that! We all know why upgrading to a Tight Bore is necessary and we've all heard the controversy surrounding bore sizes, but no matter, in the KJW anything is better. It comes stock with a 6.10 barrel, and yes, that decimal is correct. I started out with a 630x6.01mm barrel by Angel Custom. Why Angel Custom? Because they are cheap! If you have a lot of liquid assets (money), you may want to go ahead and contact EdGi for a quote on a Bull Barrel, or try a high end PDI. Those can cost you between $100 and $300 or something I believe, but the bull barrels are thicker and have less vibrations. So the Angel Custom barrel seemed like a good option- It's made of aluminum so it's lightweight, etc. I was wrong. I ended up going with a PDI Raven barrel later on, I liked it much better. But really, any 6.01 or 6.03 barrel should do.
If you are willing to experiment, try an ORGA Magnus 6.23 because that expanding CO2 can act like a Polar Star, so maybe the physics are the same. i don't know, personally I've never had the time or money to try it.

The KJW's outer barrel's inner diameter is about an inch, so you'll have a LOT of space between your inner and outer barrel. This can cause unnecessary vibrations in the barrel and make your shot do weird stuff. Oh no, what do we do? Barrel Spacers!

This is fairly straight forward, all you need to do is take some electrical tape and wrap it around in various parts of the inner barrel. This tape will act as a buffer between the inner and outer barrels, and it should also reduce those pesky vibrations that can throw off your shot. Your spacers should go from the tip of the outer barrel down to about 2-3 inches from your hop-up chamber (you will need this space in case you decide to mess around with the internals again)

The next thing you will want to upgrade is your hop up. To begin, get rid of you old bucking. While it is VSR compatible, its not very good. We'll get into buckings in just a minute, lets talk about nubs right now. The stock nub can be hit or miss, especially depending on your setup. If you'd like to go make your own nub, read on.
There are, again, two ways you can go with this. You can either have a V-Nub or H-Nub with a single mound bucking (Type A), or you can have a V-Bucking with a flat nub (Type B). Saying that neither your nub nor your bucking are deformed or imperfect, both setups should get you the same performance. The best bucking I have used for Type A's setup is a 9Ball Purple Bucking for the VSR. These are getting harder to find, but heres where I got it: Nine Ball VSR-10 Hop Up Bucking - Airsoft Atlanta Be warned, though, 9Ball is notorious for having left over casting rubber and such still on the bucking. Check your buckings before you install! Now you will need a V or H type nub for this. Why? The standard nub is very inconsistent. The diameter of the crescent shape it makes is too large to make it good. So, can I buy a nub? Nope! (As of right now you can't) You will have to make it out of a hard material. I chose PVC piping and cut it until I got a little chunk the size of my stock nub. Make sure this chunk is near a perfect rectangle or square. Now what you will do is you will take a fine-tip sharpie and mark the V-shape or H-shape you will be making. The V should look like two fangs and the H should look like the lower half of the letter H. Now you can take a metal nail file and file it until it looks like the shape. This will be the most time consuming, as you will need to install and reassemble the rifle and shoot. If the bb curves, you must take down your rifle again and file a little bit on the side that the bb curved to. Sorry for the lack of pictures here, my hands were too bloody after a "filing accident." With that said, only use an exacto knife if you REALLY have too :ashamed:
Making a flat nub is a much easier process, just shape your PVC into the correct size and make sure its flat. I just received my Angel Custom V-bucking, and while it is not my favorite bucking, the performance is outstanding with a flat nub. Using the V-Bucking with Flat-Nub will be the easiest way to make your hop up better
Here is what your V-Nub should look like:

And Flat-Nub:

Remember what I said, making one of these will take patience, as you will need to file it down precisely until it shoots straight.
Here is the idea behind the V-Bucking: The V shape the bucking has grips the bb on two different, yet even, contact points, giving the bb a consistent, centered backspin. The flat nub is just supposed to push down on the V-Bucking in a way so that neither fang of the backing is longer. The idea behind the V-Nub is basically the same, expect the nub is giving the contact points and the bucking is what is actually touching the bb.

There is one more thing we can talk about here, and that is doing a flat-hop modification to your bucking. This means removing the mound on your bucking, making it flat. When doing this, I used the stock nub, which seemed to give me the best performance. I found this way much easier to get performance from compared to making a nub.

While we are on the subject of hop up, lets talk about the Chamber Conversion Kit. A lot of people are looking to find one! I attempted to purchase one directly from King Arms in the UK, but 2 months later they said they didn't have it. Oh well. The truth is, you really don't need one, unless you own the Tanaka M700. This is because the KJW's stock chamber comes with the ability to use AEG and VSR barrels, which makes owning this chamber conversion kit redundant. Here's a picture for reference:

With that said, this entire kit is not 100% useless. As you can see in the picture, you've got more than just a barrel conversion kit. You will also find an increased performance nozzle for your bolt, a single piece hop up chamber, and an aluminum nub. However I still stand with the idea that it is not worth the $100+ to buy.
There are also several metal chambers on the market for the Tanaka that look like the standard KJW M700 chamber, but they will not work. They both lack the two small screws that secure the barrel and prevent it from moving. Unless you are very good with drilling and taping, and have a VERY small tap, I would suggest just staying with your stock outer chamber.
Here are the chambers I am talking about so you can AVOID them. Airsoft Guns - Accessories & Parts | Airsoft Guns - Gas Gun Parts | Airsoft Guns - KJW Pistol /Rifle Parts | Airsoft Guns - Accessories & Parts | Airsoft Guns - Gas Gun Parts | Airsoft Guns - KJW Pistol /Rifle Parts |

Still on hop up, lets seal up that bucking! If you've upgraded any gun, you may have wrapped teflon tape around your bucking and barrel to ensure there are no air leaks. Your KJW is no different. Heres a reference photo:

You can notice that here the barrel end of the tape there is a little slit. This is caused by the screw that holds the barrel in place, no need to worry here. Once you have done that you can put your clam shell chamber back together and reassemble. This just about concludes upgrading you hop up.

Theres another way to get around making your own nub. Yes, it is a little bit more expensive if done by a professional, but it works. There are many threads specifically for this, so instead of telling you everything, I'll give a basic overview and a few links.
So what is R-Hop? Its a custom fit patch that covers your barrel's hop up window. ER-Hop is the same, but the window of the barrel is extended, applying more hop up to heavy bbs. VERY heavy bbs. In fact, the design was originally for .88g steel bbs. ER-Hop in the case of field legal guns is generally overkill. Here are the links you will really need to know everything:

What you will need:
A barrel to R-Hop or ER-Hop
The correct tools (exacto-knife, files, sandpaper)
AEG-bucking (remove the mound)
R, IR, ER, or IER patch (Lets screw HS5, get this instead: McMaster-Carr and you get to pick a color)
HS5 ER-Hop Chamber (Shapeways, and this is not necessary for an R-Hop)
M-nub or EM-nub

Tony Zito is the ONLY certified Hunterseeker5 technician for R and ER-Hop. Again, SCREW HS5 :D
Why? Well, he screwed me… $200 spent for an ER hop and Tony's patch ripped in half after 2 days of use…
So again, get this: McMaster-Carr since its the source material for the tubing. It allows for hundreds of mistakes, where the HS5 z kit allows for three, and its also twice the cost. Did I mention you get to pick a color? :D

Now we can venture onto the bolt, yay! There are four upgrade components we will be looking at here.
To begin, you should purchase the G&G striker spring. This will increase the power behind your cocking piece and in turn make the firing pin hit the magazine's contact plate harder. This will push your gun to the maximum. You will also get a much more satisfying sound when shooting. Airsoft Guns - Accessories & Parts | Airsoft Guns - Gas Gun Parts | Airsoft Guns - KJW Pistol /Rifle Parts |
The next product is G&G's rubber set. Of this kit, you will only need one piece, and that is the one in the top left corner of this photo:

This part is more of a replacement, as its really only useful of you find air leaks between your bolt and the magazine. This is the only replacement on the market, so its good to mention. Oh, and it's a nice red color :) Airsoft Guns - Accessories & Parts | Airsoft Guns - Internal Parts | Airsoft Guns - Hop-Up | Airsoft Guns - Other Series Hop-Up |

Do you remember that the Chamber Conversion Kit came with a nozzle? You can buy it here: Airsoft Guns - Accessories & Parts | Airsoft Guns - Internal Parts | Airsoft Guns - Air Nozzles | Airsoft Guns - Other Nozzles |
This little guy should reduce air leaks between your bolt and your bucking. Disclaimer: This was made for the Tanaka, but since the KJW is nearly a clone, it should fit.I cannot promise it will fit.

And finally, there is the steel cocking piece by G&G. I would not recommend you buy this until your stock cocking piece breaks. This piece will need some modifying to fit, meaning you will need to file down parts to get it to spec. I've owned this part before, and G&G decided that their steel was going to be the hardest they could make it… With that said, it is very hard to file down. Airsoft Guns - Accessories & Parts | Airsoft Guns - Sniper Rifle Parts | Airsoft Guns - *Shop by Model | Airsoft Guns - M700 / AICS |
I previously owned a G&G G96, so most of the bolt's upgrades were taken off of that. How nice!

One last thing with the bolt is to take a file and shave down the bolt areas that seem to be "sticky" when you cycle the bolt. This makes for better weapon operation. You can also try to remove the casting seams, but theres not really a need if you're lazy.

Lets go to externals now. Many people want to know, is there a threaded barrel adapter? Yes, there is! However, is you plan on cutting the barrel like I did, this part will not work. If you will keep the barrel the same, here is the link: Airsoft Guns - Accessories & Parts | Airsoft Guns - External Parts | Airsoft Guns - Adapters |.

To use this, unscrew the two screws that hold the front sight in place. Then you remove the part that looks similar to the threaded adapter and replace it with the threads.

For those of you who want to cut you barrel so you don't have a 5 foot long gun when you use a silencer, you can still make a threaded barrel adapter. You can take this piece: Airsoft Guns - Accessories & Parts | Airsoft Guns - External Parts | Airsoft Guns - Outer Barrels | Airsoft Guns - Barrel Extensions | and put it in a lathe and begin to file down the outside until it fits in your KJW. Once it fits, you will want to take it out and put some electrical tape. This way you will need a hammer to fit it in the barrel (it won't come out now). Should look like this prior to installation:

After you have the threads fitted and installed, you may want a small rubber washer to act as a buffer between the barrel and whatever you attach.
It should look somewhat like this when it is installed:

Though if you have the tools/skills, or know such a person, I recommend making a threaded adapter and tapping the inside of the outer barrel.

So in that picture you can see I cut my barrel, thats because I didn't want a 5 foot gun. If you want to cut your barrel but lack the tools, I simply used a hack saw and a vice. It didn't take much to cut through and file until it was even.

One last thing to mention about the externals are the stud mounts for bipods. In The holes are just a tad bit small so you will need to drill them out with a bigger drill bit.

Whats so great about using a KJW M700 with all these upgrades? The power. Thats plain and simple. Unlike a spring rifle, you can now use heavy weight ammunition, still get enough power, and still have little stress on the internals. For example, I can use 0.43g bbs and still shoot around 600 FPS. The 630mm barrel in conjunction with expanding gases is a deadly equation for range. Your only limiting factor is your field's requirements.

And now that we are at the end of our guide, I just want to give you a list of brands that you should stay away from, I have used these brands and I can safely say no to them now.
1) Angel Custom (Buckings and stuff are all of terrible quality)
2) Matrix (Especially BBs because of how soft they are)
3) G&G* (*Not really a brand to stay away from, but use discretion when buying, as only some parts they make are compatible.)

And to give you a little inspiration, here's what my M700 looks like. Enjoy!

So that just about concludes my guide to upgrading your KJW M700! Thanks for reading! Again, I know a LOT of stuff about this gun, so if you have any questions or need clarification, go ahead and ask me :shot:

Almost forgot. The best part about this process? When this happens: *Player*: Where'd you buy that gun? *You*: I built it.

More to come!
Edit 1: Pictures work now
Edit 2: More added to bolt, gauge, and hop
Edit 3: Added another way to setup HPA rig
Edit 4: Added more to HPA rig, hop, silencers, bbs, scope
Edit 5: Added more photos to barrel spacers and hop
Edit 6: Added more to HPA rig
Edit 7 & 8: Cleaned up a bit
Edit 9: Added R-Hop and ER-Hop
Edit 10: Added some colors :D
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Please read the guide. It has the links to the things you need. It also says what to buy and what not to buy.

The spare bolt is not needed. Neither is the hopup screw, nor the CNC hop up chamber, not the KA aluminum air nozzle.

It also says to not buy Angel Custom. Get a Laylax, PDI, Prometheus, EdGi, etc. barrel.
Hey Bobcat, I got a M700, takedown model sadly, didn't have the other one at my local store. Does this build still work well? What key differences should I watch out for? Also any update on the FPS you were shooting? My field allows 500FPS for bolt action rifles. That's really what I want to achieve, with .40 for best accuracy. Let me know any suggestions! Thanks!
The nub is different. A PDI W-hold will work pretty well. Other than potential air-seal issues the take-down does pretty well in my experience. Much easier to work on too :yup:
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I am resurrecting a M700 from scratch ( don't ask why - I have a Tanaka receiver, outer barrel and non functional trigger box - missing one spring ) and just picked from ebay a G&G power bolt. I am considering using the KJW hop=up chamber but wanted to double check with you - will the G&G housing work with the KJW hop-up chamber?
For the nozzle extension I'll probably machine something similar with the King Arms nozzle extension.
I am going to upgrade a M700 and already have a mancraft regulator. It came with 4mm hose, so is it wide enough? I have seen that you use 1/4 tube.
Thank you very much.
If you want to use the 4mm tubing with the 1/8 NPT fittings on the magazine, you need this fitting:

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Thank you very much!
Does the g&g g96 metal housing fits well in the kjw?
Most G&G parts made for the G96 will not fit, except for a few pieces in the bolt.
So i currently have a Bar10 and might be picking up an MDT LSS (KJW M700 essentially). Would i be better off just putting the money into my Bar10 or is the m700 still a good sniper to upgrade (sorry if this should go somewhere else... just seemed like a lot of m700 experts here)

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You would be better off putting the money into the Bar10. The M700 takes a lot of money and patience, and even then it's hit or miss with the accuracy.
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Well that’s rather disappointing...

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So you wouldn't recommend the kjw m700 at all? I was really interested in the rifle, my only issue was trying to find out what type of nub could I use to r hop the barrel? If the rifle has potential could anyone inform me the best nub options/hop ups out there. Any info would be greatly appreciated.
The M700 has some serious power behind it when HPA'd. This power is a result of a 650mm inner barrel and expanding gases. That's the real benefit of the gun. Range has never been a problem, but accuracy has always been left for desire. The best I could get was from an ER hop, which shot well, but ended up blowing under 100 shots.

If you have access to a 3-axis hand mill, you could make a steel nub like dobey did for his gun. This route would require a special chamber as well, since the original chamber does not allow for a large enough nub.

I ended up reviving my VSR with the Wolverine Bolt and an AA chamber and it's likely I won't go back since my VSR is damn accurate. Additionally, parts for the VSR are widely available from many different retailers.
Yea I knew hop up would be the huge issue. With the police version leaking isn't so bad of an issue I would imagine. What would you say about asg m40a5 instead? dimitri I think his name was seems to sing its praise using just "map pro". Wonder if dobey makes nubs.
Reliku, have you had any issues with your Takedown M700 since your last post about it? I may be able to get one for a good price w/ 2 mags and a Nineball purple hopup packing. The owner says:

"Its range is **** but that's because when my brother was reassembling the hopup he put the screw in the wrong hole, and it stripped. That screw needs removed and a new screw (one of those little grub screws) placed in the right hole. Everything else seems fine. I gotta double check the magazines too."
New upgrades for KJW M700 REVIEW, no longer need to hpa tap!!

So, Ive been keeping an eye on this thread for some time now. Iown a KJW M700 and have been fighting the temptation to HPA tap my gun. Im not a proponent of HPA and find that the notion of HPA tapping a sniper rifle is not only inconvenient in the field but takes some of the fun out of it. This is my opinion and preference. Im not here to argue about this.

There are some new upgrades out for 2019 and the M700 variants. I've tried both of the most effective upgrades and found that I no longer have consistency issues despite not having jumped on the hpa band wagon!!
Action Army has finally put out a new 1 piece hopup unit for this rifle and I must say that it lives up to the Action Army upgrade name!! When I heard about this I immediately placed my order for one. I also found that a new C02 magazine for the ACC21 sniper was released as well. The ACC21 sniper is compatible with the KJW M700 platform.
the hopup:
One piece construction. Accepts the VSR10 bridged barrel and stock barrel. It doesn't require you to switch from the stock or vsr 10 to aeg barrels as most of the action army hopups do. Its easy to install and even easier to tune. It locks the barrel to the hop unit much better than the stock hop. The hop arm while plastic still, is a very close tolerance fit and there is minimal if any side to side variance. The adjustment uses the stock adjustment wheel on the top of the scope rail, unlike most AA hopups which require the use of an allen key to adjust.
I paired mine with a ML 80 degree autobot bucking, why so high degree? Ill tell you why in a minute. I also was using the accompanied steel ring for better nozzle to bucking seal. I used the concave nub that came with it for testing. I was concerned that the AA nub would under perform in comparison the the ML Omega nub. I was wrong. I ran this out in the field the following weekend at a milsim event and she performed beautifully. I normally will spend a lot of time testing and tuning after installing a major upgrade, but I was so excited to get her out there I went against my normal procedures.
the result:
I played all day in my sniper role I had so much fun with it. I will sometimes switch between DMR and Sniper if I end up having gun problems as a sniper. That day was different. I was hitting shots at 200 ft consistently every time. using .43 gr asg bbs I was tearing through brush and branches with little deviation to target. I even made some extreme precision head shots taking guys out at 100-150 ft with only 6 inches of target showing from cover. The satisfying crack on head gear was exciting. An inconsistent rifle will allow you to hit a man size target shooting for center mass, but this new hopup took my game to a whole new level with this rifle. There is nothing more fun as a sniper knowing that whatever you put your sight on you are going to hit it every time!!
Now, I told you I was using the autobot 80 degree, here is why. I also picked up the new ACC21 C02 mag. The AA ACC21 sniper rifle is compatible with the M700 platform so these will work. There is also a new bolt upgrade that is compatible as well. Since green gas can be so finicky i thought Id try the C02 mag and it did not dissapoint! Before I went to the field I tested the mag using the same .43 gr bbs. The rifle with the new hop installed and the c02 mag this rifle was chrono'ing at 554 fps consistently(full mag)!! I didn't even test with .20 gr because 1) I never use .20 gr bbs in the field 2) I knew the fps and joule rating was going to go off the charts after my initial test.
The mag is all metal with a different look and feel to it. it has a spare compartment in it to store a tool or extra c02 cart for field changes. What a great thought!! It holds 28 rounds. It seems pretty consistent until about the 20th shot where distance begins to diminish, but that is just where it begins to diminish. You can go through a whole mag before its way out of control.
I like the weight of the mag as it seems to help balance out the front heaviness of the rifle for me (I upgraded to the fluted bull barrel and infidel suppressor). With the added FPS I needed a better more durable bucking and that's why I went with the 80 degree maple leaf. Its designed for 550 and up fps rifles. So far it can take the abuse. During the milsim event I went through roughly 10 mags in the day (thats 280 shots approximately), firing shots at times with only 2 second delays in succession of 5 shots with no fps loss that I could tell( I time my shot to target delays, 1 mississip, 2 mississip, lol).
These 2 new upgrades made this rifle a force to be reckoned with on the field. At 100-200 ft I was asked to "turn down" my rifle it was that good, fast and hard hitting!! And that was using my green gas mags at one point. I only used the C02 mag when i needed to hit targets at 200 ft. +.
Sadly, due to the newness of these upgrades on the market the normal sources for AA hopup upgrades haven't seemed to have caught up with these. There is only 1 retail source in the US so far as I am aware of that carries these 2 magical items). Google it, you'll find it. They're in Nevada.
If you're like me and hate the notion of having to HPA tap your rifle for the sake of consistency and you own an M700 (they made one for the Tanaka as well) these are 2 must have upgrades over anything else besides your inner barrel. If your'e looking to improve the consistency and accuracy of this rifle right off the bat, get the AA Hopup for it. Don't even unbox your rifle until you do. You will not be sorry.
Hope this helps anyone looking to make effective upgrades to their M700.1 final word. The Autobot bucking newly installed needs to be broken in. Do yourself a favor a fire at least 50-100 shots through it before taking it to the field. i thought at first the hopup was faulty or the c02 mag was just pushing so much through the barrel it was causing problems and was getting fliers at every 3 shots or so. Nope the bucking just needed breaking in. Once it broke in she was firing consistently.:cheers:
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Awesome news on that Action Army hop! :D

But am I getting it wrong, or you just said the gun chronoes 554FPS measured with .43g bbs? That's insanely hot, at 6J you'll be piercing through skin even at 50 yards
I hope it’s not that hot, surely not. But I just got the hopup myself(still waiting on the rifle. I must say it seems robust, and well made!
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I hope it's not that hot, surely not. But I just got the hopup myself(still waiting on the rifle. I must say it seems robust, and well made!
Hey Tim,

Any feedback on the hopup unit? Trying to decide if this is a good buy for me as well.

Friends, I've been working with Snakebitey from Reddit and have finally finished an adapter for my M700. I'm actually really excited about it.

It is a 3d printed adapter that glues directly to a tapped short mag for the M700. The adapter accepts mp5 magazines and is essentially a TAPP style adapter. It lets you keep one gas mag in the rifle and stay in the rifle, but allows for reloading of simple AEG MP5 magazines.

I use the CYMA short type midcap mags. (Same mag's you'd use in a KC-02 if you know these builds.) They are cheap, fit in a pistol mag pouch, not so ridiculously unrealistic as they only hold ~60bb's, and don't stick down that far. Kinda gives the M700 the look of a .22... but oh man the convenience! I will post pictures shortly, and please let me know if anyone would like the 3d files!

This setup essentially makes the M700 as convenient a rifle as my Wolverine BOLT VSR... so if you can't tell I'm pretty pumped.
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