[bobcat]

Guide has been updated

 

[bobcat]

Updated, yay!

Also check out this thread: http://www.airsoftsniperforum.com/32-general-sniper-talk/11044-kjw-m700-nub-being-built.html

 

[sniperyuri]

That's a fine Rifle there.

 

[bobcat]

Well thank you
Good luck on your M40A1 build

 

[hybelmoskus]

Will any SLP rig do? Got a SLP rig for my p* that i wonder fits

 

[hybelmoskus]

Also! having a dude trying to sell me a kjw m700, but keep talking about a expansive powerbolt he bought. Is this a necessary upgrade?

 

[bobcat]

Any regulator should work. The only difference is you'll need the polar star's fittings for tube attachment on the M700.
The G&G Power bolt (I think this is what you are talking about) goes for $100. In my mind, this is almost a total waste. This is because all you want from it is a $5 spring. Everything else is not necessary to making a good gun, if anything its just a replacement bolt for the G&G G96.
Here to help if you need anything!

 

[GeoffreyM]

I've checked your companies site for the nub but it tells me theres currently no payment methods available.

Edit: Great guide, I've been looking for this for ages and now i've finally found one that will put me on the right tracks in upgrading my M700

 

[bobcat]

I'd look here:
http://www.airsoftsniperforum.com/32-general-sniper-talk/11044-kjw-m700-nub-being-built.html

I've been caught up in ER-Hopping my rifle which has put the nub on hold. Plazmaburn has been very kind and has decided he may want to help make one, but using machinery rather than a 3D printer.

 

[p2skater1]

Bob, if. You cut the barrel, how to does that adapter stay in?

 

[bobcat]

Friction. Thats what the tape is there for. If you want to do it professionally, then you can drill and tap a small hole into the outer barrel and adapter and use the right screw to keep it in place.

 

[p2skater1]

Bob, for HPA on the m700, would the g&g rubber kit be needed? Also how to you stake the bolt off of the body and dismantle it?

 

[saxplaya]

Once you concert the hop chamber to non-standard m700, i.e. Vsr/aeg, you only use the air seal piece in the bolt of the G&G rubber set.

To remove the bolt, you remove the stock from the receiver to expose the trigger mech. Once you've done so, there is a small black bar that you will see right in front of the trigger itself on the bottom of the mech. Press it, hold t, and remove the bolt. It will slide right out.

 

[bobcat]

Basically what saxplaya said. You don't even need to remove the stock to remove the bolt. If you look at the trigger, in front of it is a small black plate that you push. Keep that held down and slide out the bolt.
No matter what you will still only need to use the seal piece in the M700. The other two pieces were made for the G&G G96's special hop up that I found to be a waste.

To disassemble the bolt, you will need to remove the two flathead screws on the bottom. This splits the bolt in two pieces. Then theres a flathead screw on the spring guide, undo that as well. This should essentially break down the bolt a much as you need it to. The seal kit were talking about does not require the bolt to be taken apart, however.

 

[p2skater1]

Thanks guys, so with HPA I should prob get the rubber set and a striker spring (the striker spring is that spring in the bolt right?) also I knew that I only needed that one piece, where does it go? Also in the bolt?

 

[saxplaya]

Yes. When you remove the bolt, look on the underside toward the front. It's the only piece of round rubber you'll see.

 

[Brainplay]

Thanks guys, so with HPA I should prob get the rubber set and a striker spring (the striker spring is that spring in the bolt right?) also I knew that I only needed that one piece, where does it go? Also in the bolt?

If it's a used rifle then the rubber set may help. If it's relatively new and shows no obvious signs of wear or cracking then you really don't need it.

Also, yes the striker spring is what's in the bolt. Don't forget to unscrew the set screw in the rear before trying to unscrew the spring screw. Confused yet? Here's a picture to help. The striker spring is the spring shown. The plastic nub which holds it down is two pieces so don't freak out when it comes apart.

 

[p2skater1]

If it's a used rifle then the rubber set may help. If it's relatively new and shows no obvious signs of wear or cracking then you really don't need it.

Also, yes the striker spring is what's in the bolt. Don't forget to unscrew the set screw in the rear before trying to unscrew the spring screw. Confused yet? Here's a picture to help. The striker spring is the spring shown. The plastic nub which holds it down is two pieces so don't freak out when it comes apart.

Thanks, but when u said adjustment, does that mean the tighter it is, the more power/wear and tear the gun has? Or is that just how to unscrew it?

 

[Brainplay]

Thanks, but when u said adjustment, does that mean the tighter it is, the more power/wear and tear the gun has? Or is that just how to unscrew it?

Both. The image shows the bolt without the top section held in place by two screws. The striker spring is the big spring that you can see in the image. In order to replace with a new striker spring, remove the allen screw at the bottom, then unscrew the long screw which puts tension on the spring. The allen screw keeps the long tension screw from wiggling out of place. Remember that the plastic nub at the front holding it in place is two pieces so don't be alarmed when it fall apart. Just hold it back together when reapplying tension on the spring.

The tighter the spring, the harder the anvil will hit the release valve on the magazine. The valve will open up to a greater extend and stay open longer (miliseconds). You'll want to tune the spring tension with the regulators psi output to get best result. Lighter tension means you'll need more pressure but will release less air which is fine for shorter barrels. Typically most will set it at 90% or higher tension with lower psi output which allows you to make use of longer barrels (590mm+)without worrying about running out of gas pressure before the bb leaves the barrel. Below a certain threshold and the friction on the barrel will slow the bb down before it exits.

On stock magazines, the flat anvil is made of cheaper metal and will dent. The upgrade kit gives you a round plunger which is made of good steel which doesn't dent easily. So you have little to worry about wear and tear on that part.

 

[Pvcpipe]

I am planning on doing upgrades I can do all of them but the hop up bucking just seems to complicated. How badly will this affect the rifle if I don't do this? If it is severe then I will try and do it or will the rifle even work with all the upgrades and that bucking can't take it?