The Ultimate KJW M700 Upgrade Guide
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I'm not sure if it does, because those sort of things are for durability. Maybe if it releases air faster and in big volumes?
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All that does is lets you adjust how long the valve is open for. (mechanical dwell)
I used one in my Tanaka AICS before trading it. That was a massive royal pain to adjust and set. It also had the tendency to go out of adjustment fairly easily. (at least mine did anyway)
I did not find it overly useful as you can achieve the same results using different means.
I used one in my Tanaka AICS before trading it. That was a massive royal pain to adjust and set. It also had the tendency to go out of adjustment fairly easily. (at least mine did anyway)
I did not find it overly useful as you can achieve the same results using different means.
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All-
I have thus far been holding my CO2 rig in a pouch on the buttstock and have come to the conclusion that I don't like it. Unless it is situated perfectly it tends to get in the way of a comfortable firing position (rides forward and sits at or too near my wrist). I do, however, like the quick and convenient access to change CO2 carts when necessary.
Aesthetically, I like placement of the rig inside the buttstock. It also looks as though that setup provides for fewer things to snag as well. The down side in my mind is lack of convenient access to change the CO2 carts.
This leaves me to believe that the best alternative may be attaching the rig to the stock as illustrated in this guide. I think it leaves a little to be desired in the clean looks department, but does seem functional and provide convenient accesss to change CO2. Has anybody encountered any negatives to this method? Just wondering if it gets snagged easily on gear/ veg, or if perhaps there is concern with stability or ability to get into a proper shooting position. Thanks in advance.
I have thus far been holding my CO2 rig in a pouch on the buttstock and have come to the conclusion that I don't like it. Unless it is situated perfectly it tends to get in the way of a comfortable firing position (rides forward and sits at or too near my wrist). I do, however, like the quick and convenient access to change CO2 carts when necessary.
Aesthetically, I like placement of the rig inside the buttstock. It also looks as though that setup provides for fewer things to snag as well. The down side in my mind is lack of convenient access to change the CO2 carts.
This leaves me to believe that the best alternative may be attaching the rig to the stock as illustrated in this guide. I think it leaves a little to be desired in the clean looks department, but does seem functional and provide convenient accesss to change CO2. Has anybody encountered any negatives to this method? Just wondering if it gets snagged easily on gear/ veg, or if perhaps there is concern with stability or ability to get into a proper shooting position. Thanks in advance.
The down side with that route is that it can hinder bipod use in certain cases and angles.
Since the connectors are external, I would recommend using a barbed fitting and clamp rather than your standard push connect. Push connect fittings are annoying sometimes because if the tube is pushed too far in one direction, the o ring seal opens a little allowing for leaks... (massive leaks). When the CO2 is situated inside the stock, the stock housing keeps the tubing in place to prevent this, but since you want it outside, you should stick to barbs.
I personally think barb fittings hold the tube better, since the friction fit is much stronger than the push connect's barb hold. You can also get barb fitting to QD fittings from McMaster, this makes things easy.
The upside is that the regulator is always pointing up when firing straight, so the chances of liquid CO2 events are diminished.
Since the connectors are external, I would recommend using a barbed fitting and clamp rather than your standard push connect. Push connect fittings are annoying sometimes because if the tube is pushed too far in one direction, the o ring seal opens a little allowing for leaks... (massive leaks). When the CO2 is situated inside the stock, the stock housing keeps the tubing in place to prevent this, but since you want it outside, you should stick to barbs.
I personally think barb fittings hold the tube better, since the friction fit is much stronger than the push connect's barb hold. You can also get barb fitting to QD fittings from McMaster, this makes things easy.
The upside is that the regulator is always pointing up when firing straight, so the chances of liquid CO2 events are diminished.
Hi everyone, I've read this particular guide for the first time months ago, and am now ready to start buying parts to get my build going. I'll be starting out with a KJW M700 Polic model. First mod that I want to do is Co2. I can buy a second hand 1/8 tapped long magazine (tanaka). From there, I have many options, but difficulty finding the desired sources.
I'm thinking of buying a Begadi Co2 Booster for this build; would that fit inside the buttstock?
I'm not yet familiar with snipers and/or gas replica's, as I've only worked on AEG's (and to some extent on GBB handguns) so far.
Any tips for the newbie?
I'm thinking of buying a Begadi Co2 Booster for this build; would that fit inside the buttstock?
I'm not yet familiar with snipers and/or gas replica's, as I've only worked on AEG's (and to some extent on GBB handguns) so far.
Any tips for the newbie?
Some tips:
Usually its easier for a new player to buy a JG BAR-10 to see if they like the role of the sniper- its not for everybody.
If you have your heart set on the KJW:
I have no knowledge of the Begadi thing, I use Palmers and its the best regulator I've seen for CO2 application, and it fits inside the stock.
Usually its easier for a new player to buy a JG BAR-10 to see if they like the role of the sniper- its not for everybody.
If you have your heart set on the KJW:
I have no knowledge of the Begadi thing, I use Palmers and its the best regulator I've seen for CO2 application, and it fits inside the stock.
Alright! Thanks for the tip. I have actually previously owned a sniper, an ASG AW.308. I did not upgrade it, which resulted in the range being less than or equal to properly upgraded AEG's. Needless to say, it wasn't very enjoyable.
I do know that I want to have a sniper in my arsenal, as I enjoy filling different roles on the field every once in a while. I just need to make sure it's a proper one, so I can actually outrange the AEG's and make good use of it.
That's where this guide will come in. I'm fairly sure that the begadi one will also fit the stock. I'm aiming for that one because importing from the US is quite expensive for me (I'm in NL), and the dollar rate has gone up quite a bit compared to the Euro, so now it's more expensive than ever!
This is the begadi I'm considering: BEGADI CO2 Booster, with hose and valve for KJW / WE - BEGADI- Tactical clothing, airsoft, Outdoor and Accessories
When I have all the parts, I'll start tinkering and use your guide to try and get through all the steps. I might need to come back and ask for specifics.
Thanks for taking the time to write this up and answer!
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Over the weekend I cut down my outer barrel to accommodate a 430mm inner. Despite the great advice in this thread, I purchased the standard Tanaka/ KJW threaded adapter (example:
http://www.evike.com/products/28302/
). For some reason I couldn't think clear enough to comprehend why this would fit in a longer barrel but not in a shorter one. As soon as I cut the outer barrel I immediately saw why. It is INCREDIBLY thick. I was stuck and didn't want to mess with returning the part, so I decided it was time to get inventive.
A 5/8" drill bit will bore the outer barrel out very close to the needed diameter. I found that first grinding some of the material away with my dremel gave a suitable area for the drill bit to catch and stay inside. It was a long and sometimes painful process as I was using a standard drill, no press available. Just take your time, lubricate if appropriate (I used WD-40 and it seemed to help). Once I achieved desired depth I did a quick test and found that it was just a little too snug for the adapter. This is nothing that a good whack with a hammer can't fix. Since I was using a SPR style flash hider, I screwed it on to the adapter to provide a flat striking surface and protect the threads. It is critical that you have everything aligned before you bring out the hammer. I thought I would give it a couple of taps just to see if it would work and ended up overcommitted with a spr style flash hider that did not have the vents properly aligned but was too tight to turn the asembly to adjust. I will probably just unscrew the flash hider a little bit and use the set screw to hold in place for proper alignment.
Let's caveat by saying that there is a real possibility that you could negatively impact accuracy due to lack of precision. This is "******* engineering" at best and does not meet the standards of what could be provided by a machine shop. For those of you who don't have access to machine tools or a shop or just lack funds, you can give this a shot at your own risk. It's an alternative to the method previously described with for SCAR adapter.
http://www.evike.com/products/28302/
). For some reason I couldn't think clear enough to comprehend why this would fit in a longer barrel but not in a shorter one. As soon as I cut the outer barrel I immediately saw why. It is INCREDIBLY thick. I was stuck and didn't want to mess with returning the part, so I decided it was time to get inventive.
A 5/8" drill bit will bore the outer barrel out very close to the needed diameter. I found that first grinding some of the material away with my dremel gave a suitable area for the drill bit to catch and stay inside. It was a long and sometimes painful process as I was using a standard drill, no press available. Just take your time, lubricate if appropriate (I used WD-40 and it seemed to help). Once I achieved desired depth I did a quick test and found that it was just a little too snug for the adapter. This is nothing that a good whack with a hammer can't fix. Since I was using a SPR style flash hider, I screwed it on to the adapter to provide a flat striking surface and protect the threads. It is critical that you have everything aligned before you bring out the hammer. I thought I would give it a couple of taps just to see if it would work and ended up overcommitted with a spr style flash hider that did not have the vents properly aligned but was too tight to turn the asembly to adjust. I will probably just unscrew the flash hider a little bit and use the set screw to hold in place for proper alignment.
Let's caveat by saying that there is a real possibility that you could negatively impact accuracy due to lack of precision. This is "******* engineering" at best and does not meet the standards of what could be provided by a machine shop. For those of you who don't have access to machine tools or a shop or just lack funds, you can give this a shot at your own risk. It's an alternative to the method previously described with for SCAR adapter.
The threaded adapter you bought can be used if it is machined, like you did.
I would have stuck it in a lathe to machine it down to size, then bored out the inner diameter to a slightly larger diameter so that the barrel doesn't touch it. The barrel spacers keep the barrel in line, the threaded adapter does nothing.
I like your "******* engineering" though! I know most people would have just returned the part.
I always knew my SCAR adapter wasn't the best, since it was a friction fit, made for those without tools *like me*...
I would have stuck it in a lathe to machine it down to size, then bored out the inner diameter to a slightly larger diameter so that the barrel doesn't touch it. The barrel spacers keep the barrel in line, the threaded adapter does nothing.
I like your "******* engineering" though! I know most people would have just returned the part.
I always knew my SCAR adapter wasn't the best, since it was a friction fit, made for those without tools *like me*...
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43 Posts
It was a snug fit to get the inner barrel in, I am thinking that there are o rings that help hold it into place. Are you thinking that is not a good thing? (Wouldn't it aid in the same fashion as a barrel spacer?)
Eh, I only came up with that idea once you mentioned that the machining had to be perfect. If it isn't perfect, then I think my route would have been more forgiving, but if it is perfect then there should be an issue and act like a spacer.
Hey bobcat, great tool this!
Btw I'm looking to co2 rig my kjw m700 now, palmers (co2reg) have a "kjw m700 kit" with macro line, would this be any good? Looks like it's comes with all the stuff needed.
KJW M700 Macro Line Hose Kit
Thanks for the help mate, been reading the whole thread for a few evenings now
Btw I'm looking to co2 rig my kjw m700 now, palmers (co2reg) have a "kjw m700 kit" with macro line, would this be any good? Looks like it's comes with all the stuff needed.
KJW M700 Macro Line Hose Kit
Thanks for the help mate, been reading the whole thread for a few evenings now
//Yep... thats everything you need. Some other things I would buy:
Mini Gauge, 0- 300 PSI - Gauges - Air Fittings - Industrial
/*
This is because the gauge it comes with is 1.5", and the stock's largest width is maybe around 1.05". The gauge I linked is a 1", the one I use.
Make sure you have a stiff, sharp knife for that macroline... I used a hacksaw once...
*/
Now I personally think that "package deals" are a bad thing. This is because it limits you to what you can and cannot do. I'm not necessarily a fan of Palmer's fittings and tubing. Their regulator and M700 adapter is great for our applications, but not much else.
I personally would have chosen to go to McMaster and found strong-flexible-<200PSI tubing. Then some QD fittings that use barbed fittings and not the push connects. They have a stronger hold and allow for a better bend radius.
tl;dr
What you have is fine, but there are different, better ways.
Mini Gauge, 0- 300 PSI - Gauges - Air Fittings - Industrial
/*
This is because the gauge it comes with is 1.5", and the stock's largest width is maybe around 1.05". The gauge I linked is a 1", the one I use.
Make sure you have a stiff, sharp knife for that macroline... I used a hacksaw once...
*/
Now I personally think that "package deals" are a bad thing. This is because it limits you to what you can and cannot do. I'm not necessarily a fan of Palmer's fittings and tubing. Their regulator and M700 adapter is great for our applications, but not much else.
I personally would have chosen to go to McMaster and found strong-flexible-<200PSI tubing. Then some QD fittings that use barbed fittings and not the push connects. They have a stronger hold and allow for a better bend radius.
tl;dr
What you have is fine, but there are different, better ways.
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