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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The V-PAS Air Rig is a custom project realized by top-notch airsoft gun tech EngelMacher. After a staging phase in which we planned how the rig would work with all the main features, I funded the project and EngelMacher started building it from scratch. Not only he is a kind and dedicated airsoft gun tech but he also one of the best experts on external air rigs.

We wanted to build an air rig that both had extreme versatility and performance. It is definitely not an easy task to accomplish, but we did. Keep in mind my work on the planning phase has been minimal and all the credits in the construction phase go to EngelMacher.

This rig features a Palmer Regulator that can use both CO2 capsules and HPA tanks. The coiled hose is covered in a nice and enigmatic logo that, when extended, reads "Viper Precision Air Rig" (V-PAS).

Overview


The beauty and uniqueness of this rig is its unprecedented versatility: according to the situation the operator can decide how to assemble the various modules, to match the best balance in portability and performance.

Build 1 features the smallest form-factor: single regulated, short-hosed. The main regulator can be attached to the RIS or close to the stock, for maximum portability. This setup is great with CO2 canisters, to maintain high mobility.

Build 1


Build 2 features a step forward in performance: it adds a secondary regulator but without additional hose. CO2 canisters are still the best gas source for this highly mobile setup, but the second regulator allows a tighter adjustment and stability in the PSI output.

Build 2


Build 3 features another step towards mobility, if the operators wants to place the main regulator in a pocket or on its vest, maybe with an HPA bottle: the added coiled hose allows him to place the rig further from the weapon platform. Although possible, this build is probably the least used since the operator can skip directly to Build 4 and get the added performance gain with little loss in terms of portability.

Build 3


Build 4 features the complete rig, and delivers the best performance: two regulators and plenty of coiled hose to allow the most consistent and least cooldown-influenced of all setups. The secondary regulator is close to the magazine input, to allow the coiled hose to stay right after the first regulator and moderate the gas expansion and allow the final regulation to get the most consistent PSI input into the magazine.

Build 4


In the pictures you can see an overview of all the single pieces as well the four builds available. I feel obliged to state that this is rig is currently NOT mass produced so what you are looking at is a UNIQUE piece.

Once again, thanks EngelMacher to make this possible.

For more pictures, visit: Reezo's Hideout
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Palmers Stabilizer first reg and (what looks like) an SMC AR-10 for a second reg...Your friend has good taste:p

What PSI do you plan on running?
Eheh thanks! I'll let him know, actually I'll point him here so he can read it first hand (he might be reading this as of now :)).

I can't write more good praise about him because he almost wanted me to remove all the nice words I've spent already ;) .. let's just say you know what I think eheh

I plan on running around 90PSI for normal use, probably something less, I have to chrono it at 350fps with 0.20g for games.

This said, for target shooting and long range competition I ordered and installed the last steel part (the valve knocker) for my Tanaka, so now the M40A1 is a full-steel upgraded platform. I will try and see what is the near-breaking point in PSI (veeeeery carefully) I can get. I was told 200PSI should be the maximum I dare to test it, because anything over that is uncharted territory.

---

Just got a PM from EngelMacher:

Originally posted by EngelMacher

Oh thats not an ARX10, its its big brother the ARX20. An over all much better regulator.
 

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Once you start getting too high of PSI, it will actually have less FPS unless you get a stronger striker spring. That point would be pretty high up there though and I wouldn't recommend going that high, especially if you have a long mag.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Once you start getting too high of PSI, it will actually have less FPS unless you get a stronger striker spring. That point would be pretty high up there though and I wouldn't recommend going that high, especially if you have a long mag.
Agreed. Thanks for the information. I will be very careful also because I have to let all the part get time to settle in and adapt.. Sort of what you do with new engines ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks CM! I am going to ask you a question I have asked already but it never hurts to hear more opinions.

If I wanted to get 90PSI as my final output: how would you
set the two regulators?

250/90? 200/90? 90/90? 180/90? Other?

Thanks,
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
..and after a whole afternoon of DIY and very careful tapping, I finally got it:

my first tapped magazine!





As I expected, the difference between using centimeters and inches is that - all the tools available in my country - have different standards.

This translates to my drills and hex screws being either slightly smaller or larger than what I needed to fit. Luckily for me I had asked EngelMacher to send me "the" hand thread drill for the magazine 90 degrees piece. This ensured that the tool I used for drilling the threads and the actual threads that would go in the hole are a perfect match.

Once I reached a hole that was almost the same size of the thread tool, I wondered: "should I go for the further step in drill size..or stop drilling?" once again my common sense told me to try and work my way from that hole and see if I could create threads from inside that one.

I must say it was HARD to do by hand but I did want my threads to look perfect so I did not use the drill..and this was better because the hand thread tool has a square base to fit into any pneumatic/electric drill..while my drill has a triangular clamp. What this means is that you are trying to hold a square with a triangle..and if you look at the drill head turning you'll see it spins slightly off center..NOT GOOD.

So what I did is: I went entirely by hand..it took me some serious strength to reach the final part of the thread tool but I eventually made it (I think I worked on it for a good 60 minutes!) - with this method I made absolutely sure to leave the most metal possible from the tapped hole.

The 90 degrees final screw turned in perfectly..I teflon taped it, enlarged the metal magazine cap hole and put everything together..

It was time for my final test: the leak test! I wasted one co2 cartridge because the Palmer Regulator wasn't exactly tightened against the cartridge holder..my bad.

The second cartridge went in perfectly, the first regulator reads around 150PSI and the second one goes at around 90PSI..no wonder EngelMacher must have tested it and set it up for me ;)

I plug the mag in using the QD connector and I put it under water..the initial bubbles from the cavity inside the magazine had me scared sh*tless :) but since then NO bubbles came out whatsoever.

I took the mag out, dried it with a cloth and let the rig have some rest with CO2 pushing in it to just settle things down. Tomorrow I am going to fire my first shots to let the whole rig dial in.

Another day making history ;) I would have never made it this far without the number of guides and tutorials in this forum. I want to share this success with all of you. I put this thread here as a sign to every newcomer: READ THE GUIDES CAREFULLY AND TREASURE THEM - they will serve you well.
 

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On my computer the images aren't showing, have they been unintentionally taken down? I feel as if I'm missing out on something great here.
 
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