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Ceramics are also not soft and scratchable, like a regular already inconsistent bb. Maybs the regular bb gets ever more inconsistent when scraped in the barrel.

I acknowledge that ceramics are more consistent. I am saying a regular bb is even less consistent, especially from scraping, and clearly ammo consistency matters because of ceramics. Idk if this actually matters, but idk how you could refute the bb residue in there and claim that they are coming out just like they came in.
 

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I was first convinced to use Maple Leaf thanks to Reliku. I watched his videos on YouTube. Search “Relizu” and check them out. He makes some good (or convincing) points about Maple Leaf buckings.

One video is called: Maple Leaf buckings and why you should use them.

Another is: Why R-hop isn’t as great as you think it is.
 

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i like maple leaf because more "drop-in" than stupid r-hop patch, cost time like forver to make it work perfect.
 
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Ok, I admit it, I'm an r hop junkie! hahahaha...

BUT, and I say BUT, I have the time...I do not pay to have it done, and it's part of the whole system, like I say over and over and over. I don't mind doing R hops...it's a research thing. In my case they are dirt cheap! Less than 10 cents a hop. For buckings I use the G&G greens that everybody else selss off at a swap meet for 50 cents because they're junk. In fact, the latest incarnation of my boltie is 100% recycled parts (with the exception of the 10 cent patch). Total project cost? I don't know...maybe 5 bucks including the inner barrel?

There is so much airsoft 'junk' out there I made myself a promise to reuse as much of it as possible. Parts, guns, everything except BB's and CO2 are recycled. Sure, it takes a lot more time, but I have that...and yes you have to be VERY particular with the set up to get it to work right (sounding like a broken record, again....again....again...). :)

So, with winter that lasts forever, it's a great way to kill time, do some experimenting, and all on the cheap. I still get better than average results (maybe not epic, but better than average still keeps you in the game) and everytime I hone in a new process, it gets a little better.

I won't kid around, for a no mess/ no fuss scenario, Maple Leafs are great! So are a bunch of other stock buckings in a properly set up rifle...I agree with 1 tonne completely. But in my case that'd be way too easy, fast, and in a place where good parts are almost impossible to come by it takes less time to build it.
 

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I like R-hop and Maple Leaf as they usually give me extra FPS due to usually better air seal as well as better groupings.
But to be honest I've never bought anything but G&G and Maple Leaf buckings, so I don't have experience with Prometheus, Krytac, Firefly, or the other ones as the price is quite discouraging.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
But to be honest I've never bought anything but G&G and Maple Leaf buckings
So I take it that "G&G" means you had good results with an AEG?
So in an AEG, I have conceded that a long nub can be beneficial as it can increase the fps the more hopup you apply. With this extra fps, it will create more accuracy. But get a Maple Bucking firing at 1J and a stock bucking firing at 1J and they will be about as accurate as each other. Though the Maple still has the advantage as it gets the desired fps easier meaning less stress on the gearbox and that you would have more rps.

But what about with a bolty? Even with a stock bucking the fps increases with more hopup. Personally, in this instance, I don't think there is an advantage for a bolt action unless it is for ceramics.
 

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So I take it that "G&G" means you had good results with an AEG?
So in an AEG, I have conceded that a long nub can be beneficial as it can increase the fps the more hopup you apply. With this extra fps, it will create more accuracy. But get a Maple Bucking firing at 1J and a stock bucking firing at 1J and they will be about as accurate as each other. Though the Maple still has the advantage as it gets the desired fps easier meaning less stress on the gearbox and that you would have more rps.

But what about with a bolty? Even with a stock bucking the fps increases with more hopup. Personally, in this instance, I don't think there is an advantage for a bolt action unless it is for ceramics.
I meant the G&G green AEG buckings as they seal well and are good for R-hop and flat hop.
As for my VSRs I've had better accuracy in some cases but mainly better air seal and FPS consistency.
I even had one of my friends try both types without telling him what was what and he said the trajectory of the Maple Leaf looked better and it got better EFFECTIVE range he thought.
But, whatever ya'll think works better is what you should probably use.
I'd say that a Maple Leaf is about equal to a decent R-hop, but I haven't paid someone to do one for me so I'm going off Elvish Tac and other people's guns I've shot so I may be missing something really awesome lol.
One pro about R-hop and Maple leaf is that you can shoot heavy BBs in low power guns which is really helpful for people in Italy or whatever other country or field where they have an unreasonable joule limit.
But yeah, whatever works for you is what's best
 

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Hey 1 tonne, I use a G&G green in my L96 boltie...which is r hopped. I also used one of those in my kid's Striker...which is heavily modified now. No adverse effects, and in fact, substantial improvement over stock...but that's doing the whole rifle, not just the hop.
 

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I don’t want to highjack the thread…but this is related
What happens when an r-hop patch “wears out”. I mean…at some point friction takes it’s toll, that’s the nature of entropy so to speak.
Given that, a bucking, wins out for being replaceable? I’ve never heard or seen a how to as far as removing a r-hop or preparing a barrel for a replacement r-hop
 

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I don't want to highjack the thread…but this is related
What happens when an r-hop patch "wears out". I mean…at some point friction takes it's toll, that's the nature of entropy so to speak.
Given that, a bucking, wins out for being replaceable? I've never heard or seen a how to as far as removing a r-hop or preparing a barrel for a replacement r-hop
It's just a matter of ripping out the old patch, cleaning the window and gluing a new one in. Not rocket science but still tedious, compared to a really straightforward rubber swap.
 

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Also I don't know about you guys but for me standard rubbers never worked for weights above 0.25g.
 

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Speaking of gluing, I heard even that is overrated for r hop? Thoughts? I have 3 rhopped pdi barrels with pre made patches. One in a Thompson, a vsr and an SRS. None of them are glued in and work great!
 

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Speaking of gluing, I heard even that is overrated for r hop? Thoughts? I have 3 rhopped pdi barrels with pre made patches. One in a Thompson, a vsr and an SRS. None of them are glued in and work great!
I have heard that as well, but for the 2 R-hops I had I but a layer of Scotch tape over them to hold them in a bit more than just floating around.
It's like the R-hop itself, every silly little thing you tweak and buy and make will make a difference, but who knows if it makes a good difference lol
 

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Speaking of gluing, I heard even that is overrated for r hop? Thoughts? I have 3 rhopped pdi barrels with pre made patches. One in a Thompson, a vsr and an SRS. None of them are glued in and work great!
gluing just ensures the patch isn't going anywhere when installing everything into the gun, so you could do without doing it.
 

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Also I don't know about you guys but for me standard rubbers never worked for weights above 0.25g.
By standard, you mean stock or any non-Rhop, off the shelf buckings?

Regardless I find how much hop is applied (and how they are applied) is more influential to the strength of hop. The S&T M40 total stock can hop 0.4 with zero issues (and has a goddamn good hop for that matter), while the A&K M24 will struggle even with 0.36 and a PDI bucking.
 

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By standard, you mean stock or any non-Rhop, off the shelf buckings?

Regardless I find how much hop is applied (and how they are applied) is more influential to the strength of hop. The S&T M40 total stock can hop 0.4 with zero issues (and has a goddamn good hop for that matter), while the A&K M24 will struggle even with 0.36 and a PDI bucking.
I mean the mound shaped contact patch. Prommy Purples are standard rubbers to me :p
 

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As for R hop patches wearing out, I've never seen it...even after a bazillion BB's! It must depend on the material, but food grade silicone is marvellous stuff...it hasn't even sort of made a dent...years later.

As for gluing the patch, it's twofold. First is that yes, it holds it all together while assembling. Secondly, with it glued in I can carve it super smooth to match the exact profile of the barrel (or whatever shape I want to give it). Now, just to reiterate, only glue the sides, not the ends!

Oh, and about the tape thing, I'm not so sure about that. It might work, but whatever floats your canoe...hehehehe.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
I have never seen R-Hop wear out either.
Then again, it normally also takes a number of years for a standard bucking to wear too unless you have got something like a 50 degree or less.
A lot of our club G&G CM16's still have their original buckings from about 9 years ago.
 

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Lets just say that a R-Hop on a bolt action is literally eternal.
On a 50 rps DSG it may last a year or so before wearing out to the point it becomes too inconsistent.

Just like a regular rubber..
 
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