[Lilsnowman]

Hey guys, so after a while of lurking around as a guest on this forum, and many other forums, I believe I have a general idea of what I am wanting to do as far as building my first sniper. Along with 75% of other people, I will be using a Tokyo Marui VSR-10 as my platform. This is where I run into my first problem. I would rather not have the G-Spec version of the rifle, but I cannot seem to find the Pro version anywhere except for www.uncompany.com. Has anybody ever dealt with them before? I have not, and I am weary of websites I have never dealt with before. Other than that, I believe I know all the upgrades I will be buying for this rifle, which are mainly all laylax parts (Idk if that's a good thing or a bad thing?). My goal for this rifle is to get as much range as possible with as tight of groupings as possible, with as little deviation in fps as possible, and with as much air seal as possible (I know, it's an impossibly high goal to set). If you guys could give me any opinions on what you think of my list, or if I should change any items (and why), it would be greatly appreciated. I will also list the prices of the items and where I intend on buying them, and if you know anywhere I could get the items cheaper, please let me know. Also, I don't really have a budget as of now, so recommend whatever you'd like. Onto the list!

Purchasable Upgrades

Platform - TM VSR-10 Pro - UNcompany $220.00
Laylax 6.03 Barrel - Everywhere is out of stock??? or PDI 6.01 Barrel - eHobbyAsia - $155.00
Laylax Zero Trigger - AirsoftExtreme $214.99
Laylax Spring Guide - AirsoftGI - $27.00
Laylax 170 Spring - AirsoftGI - $22.00
Laylax Teflon Cylinder - AirsoftExtreme - $119.99
Laylax Air Seal Damper Cylinder Head - PowerEdgeUsa - $29.00 or Polar Star High Flow Cylinder Head - AirsoftGI - $36.00
Firefly Bucking (Hard or Soft?) - PowerEdgeUsa - $21.00 or Nine Ball Bucking - AirsoftAtlanta - $22.99

DIY Upgrades

TDC Mod
Teflon Tape Cylinder Head Mod
Spray foam in rear stock & cut foam in the front

I'm sure I am missing some vital mods, but these are the ones I have found so far.

-Snowman

 

[rab1515]

Sounds like you have the idea of what to get. My advice, if money is at all an issue, I would go with a madbull 6.03 barrel and a hop up that uses AEG cut barrels, the barrels are $30 in stead of over $100. Also a action army zero trigger is an exact clone of the laylax and has a slightly heavier pull than the LL one, but it is $80 cheaper. It's trigger pull is lighter with a m190 than the old trigger was with the stock spring. For your bucking and hop, I would go for an er-hop, you can get the tubing for it for about $1 a foot from Mcmaster-carr, and is way better hop than anything else I have seen. You would want to use a hard bucking with that so you could get better compression. As for mods, I would recommended wax one piece barrel spacer, dental floss mod with Teflon between the bucking and barrel, anti blow by ring, Teflon mod, top dead center mod (TDC). If you want to keep your cylinder and cylinder head you can taper and bore out your old cylinder. There is a post about the fps checklist that is great for different mods.
http://airsoftsniperforum.com/showthread.php?t=4260

 

[Lilsnowman]

I knew I was missing some DIY mods. Thanks Rab for the info, I will add all of that into my notebook. As for the AA Trigger, is the quality of it just as good as the Laylax since it is a clone? And also, if I do the ER Hop, does that mean I will still need to purchase a Firefly or Nineball Bucking?

-Snowman

 

[rab1515]

If you are intending to replace all of the internals, why don't you get a jg bar-10? It is an exact clone of the TM but a lot cheaper. I can not speak of the quality difference in the first person, but I did quite a bit of research (mostly through Google) and came to the conclusion that it was, and that people who have run both the AA and LL pistons prefer the AA piston. All I can say myself is that I have run a thousand or so rounds through my AA trigger with a m190 and have no signs of wear. Also I am using my stock cylinder and modded cylinder head as well as stock barrel. As for the ER hop bucking, because the BB only contacts the patch, the bucking is purely for air seal. With the anti blow by rings/ dental floss mod (I found the dental floss kept falling of the aft end of the bucking so I switched to anti blow by rings), the compression is 100%(no air leakage firming a BB, and still holds air when the barrel is plugged by my finger, but very minor leakage). Whether you want to spring for a new bucking I cannot speak too, but if you do decide to get a new bucking,a hard bucking gives better air seal, and soft is better for hoping, with an r hop or er hop a hard bucking is better.

 

[Lilsnowman]

Well I don't intend on changing the actual hop up itself, and from what I hear, the JG BAR-10 hop up is garbage compared to the TM VSR-10's hop up. You're right though, I don't know if it is worth spending the extra $100+ on the TM for that reason purely, but I would also like to have a TM based on the fact that it's a TM. Just more appeal to me to have a TM than a JG I guess. And okay thanks for the information. I will do some research on the R and ER
hops and probably opt for that route.

 

[Lilsnowman]

Update: Well, I am having no luck finding a Pro version Tokyo Marui VSR-10 anywhere except for UNcompany.com, and I am weary about dealing with them. It looks like I am just going to order the G-SPEC version of the rifle. Is the 303 barrel the longest I can fit into this rifle? Thanks.

-Snowman

 

[woogie]

Man get the bar10, and stay with your upgrades that you have listed, and just add one of the TM precision hop chambers, or the PDI chamber.

If you are going to replace everything anyway why not start with the cheaper parts, that you are not going to use anyway.

 

[Lightbulb]

Did you read the bit about using AEG barrels which are $30 not over $100? You NEED to replace the hop chamber to do this.

I would get the Bar 10 for sure if you do change the chamber anyway.

I also use the clone zero trigger. A little bit of filing to get it to fit but no big deal.

Those two would save you about $200? For no real impact in performance.

 

[saxplaya]

Do not get the aeg hopup. Yes the barrels may be cheaper but that means lower quality, and with an aeg barrel you have to use a aeg bucking and those are not made for the consistency a sniper demands. And with a G-spec you can fit a 303mm barrel if you want to keep the silencer on, but If you run the barrel through the extension I believe you would be able to fit a normal length 430mm barrel. And with that I say get a Pdi or Edgi barrel, they are the best. Period.

 

[Lilsnowman]

Well guys, I ordered almost everything I need, except for my barrel, which I am actually ordering in a few minutes once I do some research and figure out which bb's I should try out first. I believe I am going to go with the Madbull .40's but I am reading bad things about these everywhere, and that they leave some sort of residue in your barrel. Does anybody know if this is true? I do intend on washing them before use. I have changed a few parts around and decided on some different things after some more research. I will update in a few hours with the parts I have ordered and see what everybody thinks. Thanks for all the input guys. I truly appreciate it. By the way, I don't think I am going with the AEG conversion and barrels.

-Snowman

 

[Lilsnowman]

Sorry for the double post guys. But on the hop up situation, since I hear the JG hop up is complete garbage, would this be what I would need to purchase?
http://www.redwolfairsoft.com/redwo...p_up_chamber_ver_2_for_tokyo_marui_VSR_10.htm Thanks. Also, I will be using a Laylax 6.03 barrel if that makes a difference.

-Snowman

 

[slayerfanx55]

Yep.

PDI, and Prommy Barrels are AEG cut. You will need that PDI hop. A lot of people would recommend the Tokyo Marui precision barrel/ hop-up. Look into that. http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/tokyo-marui-precision-brass-barrel-and-new-chamber-set-for-vsr-10.html

 

[chachaseeds]

Yea, definitely consider the TM precision chamber, as that's not currently on your list. Also like others have said, just get a BAR10 if you're gonna replace everything. A laylax 6.03 is the same as a prommy 6.03 I believe, and is a very good/popular barrel.

 

[reezo]

I confirm that Madbull .40g are average quality and not so consistent. They also leave a residue but you can reduce that by washing the BBs before using them. So far it seems washing eliminated the residue problem for me.

Most people use them because they are a common brand for .40g and this readily available. If I had the choice I would look for other brands..

If you think about it, a poor quality BB will strip the fun away of any super consistent $1000 sniper rifle in Airsoft..sad but true.

Barrel-wise I would get a Laylax (or Prometheus, it's the same brand) 6.03 barrel. Most of the Airsoft market is just jive to advertise poor quality products for the masses. Prometheus barrels are the only ones worth purchasing for an upgrade..I would rather wait and get one than stay with the constant doubt to have one say to scout for them in search of that placebo or not placebo effect

 

[Wiltsu-boy]

IMO the cylinder head teflon tape mod isnt really worth it.. Doesnt help shit... maybe protects your cylinder head's threads.

By the way, keep every cylinder parts same company, not laylax teflon cylinder & polarstar cylinder head. All Laylax, all PDI. Your choice.

 

[Lilsnowman]

Okay thanks for all the info guys, I guess I already screwed up by ordering a Laylax Cylinder with a Polarstar cylinder head then huh? According to Wiltsu-Boy. Since I have ordered the 6.03 Laylax barrel, I will be able to fit the TM chamber from http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/tokyo-mar...or-vsr-10.html correct? And also wiltsu, how does the teflon tape on the cylinder head mod not help? Lastly, I ordered a few different weights and brands of bb's to test them all out. I wanted to get some BB Bastard .36's but they were all out of stock

-Snowman

 

[MGunner]

IMO the cylinder head teflon tape mod isnt really worth it.. Doesnt help shit... maybe protects your cylinder head's threads.

By the way, keep every cylinder parts same company, not laylax teflon cylinder & polarstar cylinder head. All Laylax, all PDI. Your choice.

Are you nuts? I mean, I don't have experience with aftermarket cylinder heads, I just beveled my own, but the stock one leaks like hell id you dont teflon tape it.

Take your OB off your gun, and without teflon tape, cock it and fire it with your thumb over the nozzle. Then, teflon tape it and see how much longer it takes your piston to reach the end of the cylinder.

If you did it right, it will take longer with teflon tape because your compression will be better, and your cylinder will hold the pressure better.

 

[saxplaya]

I mixed cylinder parts. I have a pdi raven cylinder and a polar star cylinder head that is Teflon taped and I have 100% compression. I took off the pdi cylinder head cause the nozzle was too thick and would wrinkle my bucking. I'd say get a vsr cut barrel and use a nineball bucking and get a JG or TM hopup and just shim it up so it works better and get a Dangerwerx hop up arm.

 

[Lilsnowman]

On the Dangerwerx arm, I am not sure which type arm I would need? A or B? Sorry, this question is dumb but I really have no clue on this one.

-Snowman

 

[MGunner]

On the Dangerwerx arm, I am not sure which type arm I would need? A or B? Sorry, this question is dumb but I really have no clue on this one.

-Snowman

If you use a ''nub'' type bucking like the Nineball purple, get the A. If you use a fang type, like the PDI W-hold, get the B.