Airsoft Sniper Forum banner
1 - 20 of 29 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
TinCan's VSR Building Guide [UPDATED]

Introduction

Hello everyone, my name is James or TinCan. I am currently trying to build myself a kick-ass bolt action airsoft (spring) sniper rifle! I am writing this guide as a work in progress, that will talk about issues I have experienced and things I have bought so you don't make the mistake!

Disclaimer: I am no expert at this, I am not a guntech, however I have read hundreds of bits of advice and posts regarding building these, and consider myself to be fairly knowledgeable of the subject.

I would firstly like to thank 1tonne, fuzzy, Kicking Mustang, Sniper Mechanic, Reliku and Dimitri for posting a large amount of information on the internet and helping me build my knowledge

Choosing the Gun

When I first went to choose a gun, I didn't spend too long looking at what form factor of rifle I wanted. I knew from just having a general knowledge of spring snipers that VSR had the most compatible parts, the most users, and would be my go-to platform to upgrade.

So, the next step is to choose a model/manufacturer to buy from. From my research I can list you a bunch in order of quality and giving some description of them from seeing them and reading about them. Before, you go off and purchase anything, feel free to ask me questions, and read the entire guide as not all of it may make sense with some of the part terminology or technical specifications.

If you would like to check prices for guns, firstly try the Checker on weaponscrate.com to compare prices. If this doesn't work, shop around!

1. Tokyo Marui VSR - These guys invented the platform, and now have two standard models. The G Spec and the Pro.

Pro (182 GBP, Zero One Airsoft): 430mm Inner Barrel, 280FPS, 1080mm in Length.​

G Spec (229 GBP, Zero One Airsoft): 303mm Inner Barrel, 300FPS, 1040mm in Length.​

2. Jing Gong BAR 10 - This is probably the best "clone" of the Tokyo Marui, it is as close as you get to it. The main difference I believe is slightly lower quality externally, however the internals are entirely compatible.

Pro (150GBP Approx) - Specs the same as Tokyo Marui Pro, aside from FPS which is around 400FPS. Only problem, as with a decent number of clones is that your hand may be awkward when using the bolt handle. Can be easily fixed however!​

G Spec (150+GBP Approx) - Specs the same as Tokyo Marui G Spec, aside from velocity which is 390FPS.​

3. WELL MB03 (56GBP from Taiwan Gun) - This is what I opted for! I am on a tight budget, I got it for a great price at 56 Pounds! My logic was that if I intend to take out all the internals anyways, I can't go wrong. From using it, the build quality seems fine, and the externals, although it may scratch I will be painting it anyways.

470 FPS, 500mm Inner Barrel, 1150mm in Length. as far as I aware, it should be fully VSR compatible, and recently people have only said you may need to do some minor filing on the trigger unit.

4. There are many other clones out there, the WELL is far from the worse, however I implore you to research for yourself and make up your own mind on what you purchase. However this guide should still apply to you!

Your Gun has Arrived, What now?!

Ok, so its that day where the huge f-off box has arrived and you open it! Now, hold your horses! Before you bring it to your first skirmish you need to prepare a few things. Often times, they come pretty gunked in grease internally. So watch some youtube videos showing take apart guides, and clean it. I personally use 100% Pure Silicon Oil from Germany to lubricate my gun. I put it on the cylinder, O-Rings, Spring, Spring Guide, Outside of Hop Chamber and Piston.

Whatever you do, do not put it on any parts that require friction/among other things, e.g: The spring guide stopper, hop rubber or inner barrel!

Now that your gun is looking nice and lovely, piece it back together, (don't ruin the threads, and don't overtighten stuff). So you will need a scope, for me, any 30GBP scope from Amazon will do. I picked up a 3-9x40 scope that of course goes onto a picketing rail.

At first, I used a sticky compound known as Sugru to stick the lens protector on the front as it wouldn't stay in, don't do this, in fact don't use the given scope protecter, the chances of a BB hitting your scope is crazy low. The scope protecter made my scope blurry as hell, and unusable for my first game, until half way through I tore it off and saw clearly. This was due to condensation I believe!

Next, you will need some BB's to shoot with. Don't put average quality BB's that you would use in AEG through your gun. I would recommend the following brands: Geoff's, Longbow, and have heard good things from BLS.
To start, pick up some 0.4G BB's, they should be fine until you work out what works best for your rifle. You don't need lots as they are quite expensive, just get 1000 and that will do you for a while.

So you have a Scope, BB's, and a stock gun; go and use it for a few weeks, or months. Sniping isn't for everyone so before you spend hundreds on upgrades see if you like it first. I wouldn't recommend a sling. It kinda gets in the way, and although it can help stabilise the rifle, I don't think it is worth it and you are quicker just holding it.

Ok, I like sniping, now I want a better Gun!

Perfect, there are lots of individual parts in the gun, all of these work together to give you accuracy. This is what we want, you may have high, or low FPS out of the box, but regardless you want accuracy and distance at the end of the day.

To do this, you will eventually end up upgrading everything, but as you are getting into it, and as you move into this guide I will detail some DIY mods that you can do to save money and let you read around and build a knowledge on what you want from the gun, and what suits your budget. I won't go into anything too complex, as I myself couldn't be bothered doing a lot of them!

Dental Floss and Plumbers Tape (PTFE)

So, you know your way around the gun by now, you can easily identify the hop rubber. Towards the end of the rubber that is going towards the hop unit, wrap some dental floss around it twice, knot it up, then wrap PTFE tape around it until it covers the end of the rubber that meets the barrel. Make sure it doesn't cover the area above the window, as this may make the hop work worse!

More use for PTFE Tape, love it; this one involves your cylinder head. When you screw the cylinder head into the cylinder, you see it will have a thread with a rubber ring half way up it. Wrap this thread in PTFE a few times, bingo.
Both of these modes increase the air seal, this is when the air escapes in the gun through places other than the barrel. Not only does this mean it lowers your FPS, but it increases the variable your shots have. Sometimes it has +/-15FPS, this will all effect your accuracy which we just can't be dealing with of course!

Barrel Spacers

Another great and easy mod is to simply get some electrical/masking tape, put the sticky side outwards and wrap it wouldn't your barrel. Then reverse the tape so it sticks to this, and keep wrapping it round until it fits snugly in your barrel, put 3-4 of these down your barrel and it will decrease vibration, and increase accuracy!

Cylinder Head Nozzle

This is one that I never would have considered. What you do, is go onto Amazon and purchase some 7mm Heat Shrink. When it arrives, place the tubing on the end of your cylinder head (Called the Air Nozzle), and cut it to size. After this, use a lighter or a match to shrink it so it fits tightly. Now use some super glue and this will increase your air seal!

Foam Dampener

Here we are going back inside the cylinder, essentially on the reverse side of the Cylinder Head, there is a lot of impact pushing the air into the Air Nozzle, we want to reduce the noise by getting some foam, cutting it to shape and sticking it inside. 1-2mm will do to reduce the noise the gun makes somewhat.

(Thanks to 1tonne for his information on this, along with my modification of his ejection port cover which I will show later)

Ejection Port Cover

Usually this is done by sanding and cutting up an aluminium (sorry not tin) can and and bending it, then putting it so it covers the ejection port window. This helps stop dirt getting in, and scratching your lovely gun. I will possibly be making a model or selling 3d printed versions in the future so feel free to check us out at Clockwork 3D Printing in the services tab of weaponscrate!

Barrel Spacers

Using masking or electrical tape, with the sticky side facing outwards wrap it round your inner barrel (TIGHTLY), now, reverse the tape and put the sticky side ontop of this. Keep on layering it up until it fits tightly in the barrel, bare in mind they may be tapered! However this eliminates vibration when shooting that leads to innaccuracy.

Other DIY Mods

So there is a crazy ton of mods that people have come up with, to name a few: Top Dead Centre, Long Range Barrel, Sanding the Inside of the Cylinder Head and may more!

I want MORE range, HIGHER accuracy and FASTER shots!

Brilliant, don't we all, however it can get expensive here so hold onto your seats kid. Luckily I am on a budget too.
I am now going to list various parts that will bring you to a great sniper rifle, and give various suggestions from different companies on what I have researched. They will be in the order at which I will/have use them in my MB03 so bare that in mind.

Trigger Unit

Ok, so one thing that's a problem is the fact that the standard triggers are pretty much all 45 degree, what I mean by this is shown in the image below. Please not is has nothing to do with the rotation of the individual images, its the limitations on Paint..



So, as you can see, on the left, the circled part is the problem, this will slowly wear away until you slam fire, which causes the gun to shoot as soon as you cock it. Which is basically broken at that point and dangerous. This won't start if you purchase a 90 Degree, or Zero trigger as shown on the left!

Brands I have heard good things from:
I will personally purchase an Airsoft Pro V4 Trigger Setfor 90GBP. The brilliant thing about this, is that it comes with the piston, spring, and spring guide! Furthermore, choose the spring you want for the power you are going to need for your field, personally I would go with an M130 (460FPS) as with our upgrades it should get up to around 495FPS eventually!

One of the brands you will hear a lot about is Laylax, they are known for making brilliant parts, and just because they are out of my price range does not mean I can put them down. The Laylax PSS10 Zero Triggeris simply amazing from what I have heard, whether they are worth the 200GBP price tag, I amen't quite sure. But, if you do buy it tell us down below your experience. Please note I don't believe it comes with a Spring or Spring Guide!

Action Army is another solid brand that has essentially copied Laylax but made ita lot cheaper, think of JG copying Tokyo Marui with the VSR! A lot of people I have read from have purchased and been very happy with the results, however you will need to buy a new spring guide, and possibly a new spring separately from them. Get the Action Army Zero Triggerfor 128GBP from their official UK retailer. Note, it doesn't come with anything aside from the Trigger Unit and Piston!

Hop Up Rubber/Bucking

Ok, so I amen't going to explain stuff that has already been explained but people who understand it better than me, simply watch this video by Reliku on it: Maple Leaf Bucking by Reliku. So this gives you an idea of the bucking I am to use, and explains really well why they are pretty great! I plan on purchasing a Maple Leaf Diamond Rubber anda Maple Leaf Omega Nub. However, you need a barrel with an open window so hold your horses till the end of the guide! See the image below for an example of each.



To use Maple Leaf Rubbers you need an Un-Bridged Barrel, so don't order anything yet till you read further!

However, initially a gent by the name of Kicking Mustangwas kind enough to send me an original Tokyo Marui Hop Rubber that will probably be better than the stock one if you bought a cheaper clone like me! Check him out for any tactical airsoft footage and other cool videos!

Another option is to doa DIY called S Hopping/SUGRU Hopping. People online have told me it works well, not as good as R-Hopping (Google it) but good results for cheap! It will work with your standard barrels (Bridged), and could be a good option until you get money for a full Maple Leaf setup! Watch this video by mes copain Frozen 77from France. Even if you don't speak French you should be able to work it out! I will try it next week and give you guys an update on how it works I think.

Hop Up Units

Now, an integral part of the Airsoft Rifle, the hop! I have spoken about Hop Rubbers, now time to speak about the containing unit. I am not going to waste too much time considering all the options here, as from research and asking people the clear winner seems to be the Action Army Hop Unit. This has been known to give brilliant air seal, which you guys know is super important for shot consistency! Further to this, the unit is said to improving magazine feeding, and I find has a much better adjustment system. It is done via an Allen key in the Maxwell, as I often knock my external adjustment on my MB03!

Barrels

As you have seen above there are two types, bridged and un-bridged. Since I am going for a setup with Maple Leaf, I will be buying an un-bridged barrel! I have done a lot of looking around from two manufacturers for this, Action Army (Seeing a trend here?) and Maple Leaf themselves. When getting any barrel there are two main stats given, the barrel width, and the length. Firstly, if its 6.01 or 6.03 I don't think its anything worth getting too worried about or into a huge debate about it. It's very hard to test, and not really worth anyone's time deciding what is exclusively better.

Then, there is the barrel length, 1tonne wrotea lot about this on his 1Tonne's Guide. There isn't much point in me re-gurgitating his information, essentially, for my goal FPS of 450-500, I will be using 0.4G BB's, with a 430mm inner barrel. This is taking his advice into consideration but also what many others have told me.

Maple Leaf Crazy Jet 428mm(Basically 430mm who cares): The way this barrel works, is towards the end it has, almost a sheath that air flows into, and due to it being a smaller area it is at a higher pressure. This leads to it leaving the barrel faster, creating a small tube of air around the BB, in theory it all checks out. Putting it into practice people seem to agree. A lot of people and I am going to agree with them! It's on skirmshop.nl for around 50GBP!

Alternatively if you don't particularly trust the air funnel stuff, there is the much simpler option of an Action Army 430mm Barrel, also from skirmshop.nl for around 40GBP. As you can tell, they are a quality brand and that is why I am using them throughout my build!

Furthermore, there are other more expensive options like, Edgi and Laylax but I amen't too bothered by them. At a certain point the improvements aren't quantified by the sometimes doubling of price Laylax can cost you.

Closing Points

So I hope you have enjoyed my guide and found it informative, I didn't make it exhaustive because I believe through my time reading, messaging people and just scouring the internet I have found what should work for me, and hopefully you.

When it comes to tactics, as I said Kicking Mustang provides brilliant Ghillie Crafting tips and tactical insight into what he does.

Personally, I would say carry 2 mages, the full 4 I got with my MB03 was entirely unnecessary and adds to the hassle you don't need. If it a super long game or your really bad like me carry a speedloader!

When sniping, you can take on many different roles, but understand your limitations. Although it seems smart to carry a full size M4 to make you a flexible player, remember: Jack of All Trades but Master of None! Whether you are scouting and giving information at MilSims, or covering objectives, do what this sniper is meant to do!

The human silhouette is easily distinguishable, along with dark colours/shadows in a outdoor setting, try and break out your should and gun outline as much as possible.

Some people like a sling, but as I said I found it impeded me moving, and further to this, although unlikely it may damage your sniper if you let it hand around whilst running.

Lastly, please just remember guys what we are doing here is great fun if we all stick to the rules of our sites and countries. Don't spoil it for everyone else by ignoring minimum engagement distances, FPS rules through dirty tricks and going for headshots unnecessarily!

Any feedback is welcome,

Tincan, or James.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,640 Posts
Good write up James. It is always useful having another perspective.

One thing. I prefer to use 0.36gm bb's at 500fps. In saying this, some other techs like to use 0.4gm bb's at that fps rating. So experiment.
If you get the 430mm barrel then you will be able to shoot both weights well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
155 Posts
Actually, JG Bar stock trigger is slightly different than TM. My Deep Fire sears didnt fit JG (they wobbled quite a lot and didnt work for that reason) but fit perfect in Marui. So, internals are not completely compatible... Just a small point :D

Talking about putting teflon tape on cylinder head screws for better air seal, I found it completely useless and giving about no performance gain, even in my bored out marui cylinder... If your cylinder leaks, it will leak on the piston, not the head...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,152 Posts
Actually, JG Bar stock trigger is slightly different than TM. My Deep Fire sears didnt fit JG (they wobbled quite a lot and didnt work for that reason) but fit perfect in Marui. So, internals are not completely compatible... Just a small point :D
Well... who uses 45 degree sears anyway? ;)

Talking about putting teflon tape on cylinder head screws for better air seal, I found it completely useless and giving about no performance gain, even in my bored out marui cylinder... If your cylinder leaks, it will leak on the piston, not the head...
Most of the time, yes, this is not needed. But if your cylinder leaks at the head then this is the way to fix it :yup:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
640 Posts
maybe it "useless" fix airseal, but some players got problem: Cylinder head got un-screw after some shots, and Teflon tape can fix that problem xD.

@Reliku: Even 45* not the best, but it still suit for low-cost builds/ medium FPS.
Mine still using it ( and modded it to 55* degree), combine with M145 Element, I still got nice FPS to pushing heavy bbs.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Reliku

·
Registered
Joined
·
155 Posts
maybe it "useless" fix airseal, but some players got problem: Cylinder head got un-screw after some shots, and Teflon tape can fix that problem xD.

@Reliku: Even 45* not the best, but it still suite for low-cost builds/ medium FPS.
Mine still using it ( and modded it to 55* degree), combine with M145 Element, I still got nice FPS to pushing heavy bbs.
I have never heard of cylinder head unscrewing itself. You have to screw it tight enough with the correct tools, I think Laylax is making a cylinder open tool actually. Ive only heard about the cylinder head popping out if the threads have got really bad like in my 8 year old stock cylinder (opened countless of times) and if using very strong springs like M190/M200. Usually teflon tape just makes it difficult to put the head on correct threads, not worth...

Just buying sears for 45 degrees is really cheap way to make your gun able to take springs easily up to M150 and probably M170 without any probs too, so you can easily reach the maximum field legal fps. I used 45 degree sears for 8 years and theyre still in great condition. Also, I think there is not many good, one piece 90 degree pistons... The AA piston is shit, their venting causes the piston to leak, Im sure mine is not a lemon, Ive heard about the same issue from many users, also the piston end easily starts to unscrew and thats not a good thing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,152 Posts
No-one said the AA piston was the way to go though.

If you want a cheap way to get more power reliably, an airsoftpro gen 4 trigger set will only cost 100 euros and comes with all required cylinder internals. Even allows you to use 9 mm springs. It's way better than getting an upgraded set of 45 degree sears. Because even if they last long enough, you will still have an annoying trigger pull (compared to a 90 degree) and the bolt return will not be as smooth. The 45 degree design is simply flawed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
155 Posts
No-one said the AA piston was the way to go though.

If you want a cheap way to get more power reliably, an airsoftpro gen 4 trigger set will only cost 100 euros and comes with all required cylinder internals. Even allows you to use 9 mm springs. It's way better than getting an upgraded set of 45 degree sears. Because even if they last long enough, you will still have an annoying trigger pull (compared to a 90 degree) and the bolt return will not be as smooth. The 45 degree design is simply flawed.
As I told earlier, the airsoftpro is terribly loud sounding trigger unit, its better have a 45 degree sear than that "TSSHIHHHH" :D All you really need is a stronger spring, no need for new piston or probably not even the upgraded spring guide is needed. So thats even cheaper than asp.

The trigger pull is not hard at all, 90 degree with s-trigger is almost too light for M150 spring... Bolt return is a bit rougher in 45, but personally I dont see the point of lighter bolt push than the bolt pull itself...

But, this is just my 0,02$..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,152 Posts
Well, I'm not really a fan of encouraging inferior options when there is a better option from a technical point of view. Sure, a 45 degree trigger can work for a while, but it will wear quicker and will not work as well as the 90 degree alternative. Additionally, it will not only wear down the sears or the piston, but because it pushes the piston upwards, it also wears down your cylinder. I doubt the latter will prove a major issue down the road, but why even bother with it?

As I told earlier, the airsoftpro is terribly loud sounding trigger unit
With a little tuning the ASP ones work fine, sound wise. They are a little louder than AA for example, but they are, along with the PDI triggers, the most reliable ones in my experience.

but personally I dont see the point of lighter bolt push than the bolt pull itself...
I definitely see a point there, for example when you're in a concealed position and you don't want to apply force to return the bolt. It's better to have the cycle as smooth as possible, with no friction :yup:

The trigger pull is not hard at all
I mostly mean that a 90 degree trigger has a more crisp and predictable pull. I don't like shooting with 45 degree triggers for this reason.

Sure, the 45 will work, but why invest money in a flawed system when there is a better alternative? Especially since a 90 degree system will support any power level, not just M150's :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
155 Posts
Well, I'm not really a fan of encouraging inferior options when there is a better option from a technical point of view. Sure, a 45 degree trigger can work for a while, but it will wear quicker and will not work as well as the 90 degree alternative. Additionally, it will not only wear down the sears or the piston, but because it pushes the piston upwards, it also wears down your cylinder. I doubt the latter will prove a major issue down the road, but why even bother with it?

As I told earlier, the airsoftpro is terribly loud sounding trigger unit
With a little tuning the ASP ones work fine, sound wise. They are a little louder than AA for example, but they are, along with the PDI triggers, the most reliable ones in my experience.

but personally I dont see the point of lighter bolt push than the bolt pull itself...
I definitely see a point there, for example when you're in a concealed position and you don't want to apply force to return the bolt. It's better to have the cycle as smooth as possible, with no friction


The trigger pull is not hard at all
I mostly mean that a 90 degree trigger has a more crisp and predictable pull. I don't like shooting with 45 degree triggers for this reason.

Sure, the 45 will work, but why invest money in a flawed system when there is a better alternative? Especially since a 90 degree system will support any power level, not just M150's :)
Okay, I feel this conversation is kind of... Funny ;D

Lets sum it up:

For cheapest possible builds, just go for 45 degree sears, its cheaper than 90 degree anyway. But 45 degree will not wear anything down, and as I said, I had it for 8 years and still going strong, also for the cylinder... Enough strong and good enough for field legal, minimum cost builds.

From performance point of view, when spending more money and chasing the best possible build, 90 degree sure is better. It is much better design and is more durable, being capable of handling even the strongest springs and smoothing the bolt actions.

And about asp trigger, not everyone know how to make it more quiet (dont even dare to open the trigger unit)... Personally I wouldnt trade off my gun quietness. Choices, choices everywhere...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,152 Posts
To each their own, I guess. Both options are better than keeping stock sears, that's for sure. If you can get away with just replacing sears, then I guess it's fine.

But I personally would never do it, not on my own guns, not on a customer gun :hehe:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,640 Posts
Anything over a M150 and I would get a 90 degree trigger. Makes for an easier bolt pull/push and your cylinder will not wear. It also creates reliability on the field for you.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
150 Posts
While it was not a VSR-10, one of my rifles has a screw-in air nozzle. From repeated firing, it would sometimes come loose and give me an awful air leak. Some teflon tape fixed all that. As earlier stated, in majority of cases, there is no leak, but if you do have a leak, it sure can make a difference.
 
1 - 20 of 29 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top