Airsoft Sniper Forum banner
1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
225 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have been reading through Vindicareassassin's spr post,(good job BTW) but do any of you guys have any other tips about making my M16 a little bit more silent?

I dont want it to get a lower fps, only more silent. if you guys have some tricks to improve the fps a bit too, i would really be gratefull!

Thanks, And happy sniping!

-2Echo
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
51 Posts
I'm not sure what motor is the quietest out there, but that's going to be some of the most noise, and that'd be one of the hardest parts to silence. Make sure that the gearbox is shimmed perfectly, motor height is is as good as you can get it, anything to take the strain off the motor so there is as little strain as possible when pulling back on the spring.

Your best bet is to talk to a local airsmith who's worked on a lot of guns, since they are likely to have the most experience with the most variety of motors, as well as other tips for a quiet gun. You can also try using sound-dedening foam between the gearbox and outer shell where there is space, but I doubt that will do much for you as the motor makes more noise. A foam-filled silencer will make the sound from the gun slightly different.

I have heard that TM M14s and TM AUGs are also relatively easy to silence, and if you would consider one of those, that may be a better option.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
225 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I definitely dont wanna buy a AUG, because i hate the look of it. I will stick to my M16, because i love it.

I think i will buy one of those red "silent piston heads" perhaps it will remove most of the noise from the gearbox. i dont think i can do anything about the gears, but to put some lube on them.

I also want to know, what type of barrel i should get? I want the most precision, without losing fps...

Thanks again!

-2Echo
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,011 Posts
My advice would be to get a Systema Motor and use a foam filled silencer, that's about the quietest you'll get it. Considering our rifles have a lot more bits and pieces to the equation over say, a bolt action... We generally just have to take our vices for our pros. Best advice I could say is get a Systema High Torque motor, to get a quick snap sound out of the motor, rather than something longer or more drawn out... Then go for a nice foam filled silencer, custom made or pre-built.. doesn't matter. No enemy will be able to hear you within 20 yards with that setup. And you can also wait until the heat of a firefight between two standard AEG's to begin popping off rounds, like in enemy at the gates, when they wait for the explosion. I wait for loud people in the field to begin firing, unless I know I can get all members of a fireteam in one swoop.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
225 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Bah, i allready have a silencer, but it is filled with that ordinary sponge things XD I am going to try filling the silencer with foam instead, but i don't like it when the gun is so long, because it takes away some mobility when i crawl. But i guess, silence has it's price...

Look at me, never satisfied... Someone might consider that as a bad thing, but perhaps the need to always improve, makes me better^^

I have also thought of placing a little bit of some of the sponge-stuff in the piston, like vindicareassassin, but then i will need to take off a tooth of the piston too. also cuting down a little bit on the fps... silence has its price as i said XD

And then there was this question about the barrel:
Which barrel is the best choice when i want more precision, without loosing any fps?

Thank you all, for the great answeres and tips!

-2Echo
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,045 Posts
Here I come again, cape a fluttering and bright red underpants over the top of my combats
Consider this an edit to my SPR post ;) I didn't mention motors and probably should have :-[ Anyhoo... Two of the quietest motors on the market today are..... TM EG700/1000. I personally think the EG1000 is quieter but not by alot, I tested them side by side and now an EG1000 resides in the grip of the SPR ( set the motor height tonight and it is really quiet now
)

To go further into 2echos' question, I would recommend trying to source an SPR hand grip, They have about twice the thickness of plastic/nylon/resin compared to a stock grip which will insulate the sound a bit better( a word of warning though, they are right handed only, no good at all if your a lefty). Silent piston heads are crap and are only silent in name only. Your best bet is Sorbothane, a rubber compound that comes in a variety of hardness', stick to the harder compounds as the soft ones are just that ;) stick a layer on your piston head and a layer on your cylinder head and you have approximately what I have got just stuck to my cylinder head :) The next thing to do is fill all the voids, use sponge or soft foam, in different thickness', so you can push into any gaps, the largest gap you will encounter is in the stock * and the space between the front of the gearbox and the inside of the delta ring, either side of the hop chamber, but remember not to fill any lower than the feed tube. * (If your an M16A1/M4A1 owner it will be the foregrip ;))
The Airbrake piston is still a viable option, and has the most dramatic effect on noise levels, it would just mean you would need to install a higher rated spring as on average you loose 20/25fps from this mod.(You must be careful though if you use full auto with an air brake as it slows the return time of the piston and could lead to premature engagement of the piston, with the resultant zip, bang ,whirrrr..... ;))
And finally, like everyone else has recommended, a suppressor, if your lucky enough to be able to use foam filled ones, do it ;). To further improve performance make the inside of the foam as random as possible and fit baffles, like these



at random distances down the length of the silencer. The hole should be no smaller then 9mm in the baffle and you should make sure that they all run in line, easier said than done I can assure you ;). The basic principle is to trap the sound wave behind the baffle and give it somewhere to expand to and die off then on to the next compartment which is slightly smaller/larger and this then dampens the sound at a different octave level and so on.... down the silencer until there is very little of the muzzle pop left with enough energy to make to much of a noise about.... did you see what I did there, I should be writing comedy scripts ;)

Thats all I can think of at the mo that I haven't already covered in the SPR post, but if I think of anything I'll post it here.

VA

EDIT

Oh yes, Barrels, if you have a brass one, try cleaning and then and then polishing the crap out of it then send about 200 rounds down it to bed it back in. Seems to work on this 6.08 I have in the SPR, but it was windy as hell here today so quite hard to get solid results. Short of that a nice tight bore of 6.04/6.03, I got a madbull black python in the EBR and they are resonable but not the shizzle ;)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
225 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Hi!
Now i am sitting with my gearbox, in nice lilttle pieces on my desk in front of me. And i am going to do something about the sound in the piston. I was planning to put some some of the grey sponge-stuff in between the piston head, but then i saw one of these O-rings, lying around. Hopefully, you will know what i mean.

So, i thought of puting the O-ring in there instead, but then the piston would be positioned about 2 mm (a little bit more than 1 inch) further out, because (offcourse) the O-ring is that thick.

Now, my question is: do i have to take away one of the teeth on the piston if i put the ring in there? And what is the best way to attach it tho the piston thing? Superglue?

Thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,045 Posts
I have done this before on a vented polycarb piston head, and it did dampen the sound a little, but know where near as mach as foam or an air brake does ;) If your going down the 'O' ring route, first up make sure it doesn't cover any vents in the piston head, secondly and more importantly, you will need a smaller 'O'ring of the same thickness as the large one to glue inthe middle of the piston head. This is important as the centre ring will help adsorbe the impact, because if you were to run just a large 'O' ring all the impact would be taken on the outside edge of the piston head and would fail in no time around the thin part that forms the groove for the sealing 'O'ring. Oh and yes super glue will do to stick it on with ;) You should remove the second tooth any way, just to improve engagement, but if you look at the photo I posted the piston sits about 3/4mm further back than is standard, this would mean that the first tooth on the sector gear would engage the third tooth on the piston, but by only half a tooth, so, remove half of tooth 3 and the sector gear can spin normaly until it reaches tooth 1. The ideal place for the engagement to begin is approximatley at 12 o'clock on the sector gear, this is when the contct patch of both teeth are at their largest, which is good as it spreads the load over a larger area. On my EBR I spaced the piston back by at least 4mm to get it to the correct position but the SPR was only about 3mm. The fact of the matter is no manufacturer makes their pistons the same length, they all vairy so you should realy check your AOE every time you change your piston, and its a sad fact that those same manufacturers don't do it for their new guns either :( On a standard gun you might not notice the lack of AOE, but as soon as you start putting stiffer springs and such in you should check and adjust as necessary if you want to reduce the chances of stripping the piston ;)

Edit to the 'Make my gun quieter' thing, fit Helical cut gears in the gearbox, because of the way the gears mesh with each other in a gradual way they are about half as loud as stright cut gears, the down side is the shimming needs to be spot on as by the very nature of them they try to force each other apart sideways the moment they start to turn, and they are more expensive than standard gears of the same ratio :(
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,045 Posts
Sorry chap, was editing the post above when you posted this ;) so there's new info above now to


As for the foam I used the foam from a Kip mat, the kind you lie on when camping, but you have to allow for the fact that the spring will compress it to nearly 2mm thick, also to stop the foam expanding into the nozzle when it is compressed you need to cut/melt/ file/grind a counter sink into it so that the air can still get out. If you look back at the photo of the back of the cylinder head you'll see what I mean ;) Also when you put the cylinder head back in the cylinder wrap some PTFE(Teflon) tape around it first, then fit it, then wrap more PTFE around the whole thing at the joint this will improve your seal knowend ;)

Another top tip for all the people that use the TM M4/M16 hop chamber, the spring that supposedly pushes the hop chamber back against the gearbox case isn't strong enough, if you glue a 1mm packer to the front of the unit on the feed tube this will force the hop back improving your hop/ nozzle seal tremendously
I gained nearl 30 fps from this mod alone
It also helps transfer some of the shock onto the body of the gun which inturn helps to stop your gearbox cracking at the front ;)
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top