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TM L96 "E-Build"

4735 Views 12 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  woogie
Hi guys,

The time is nigh, I now have my UKARA membership and my promotion so I have money and time to get my airsoft sniper rifle. I know I have posted a lot on this forum for someone who isn't yet a sniper, so I hope you will excuse another "pre-rifle" thread from me!!

Hopefully I will be asking the questions that most potential Tm L96 buyers will be asking, and hopefully your input will help them as much as me!!

I had planned out a complete Well MB-01 build with help from you guys on this as it didn't seem that there were many upgrades for the TM L96 at the time, now I have been doing some proper research and I am seriously considering the TM L96 as an alternative, not least because I just love the real position of the magazine, but also because I think as I plan on upgrading over time the TM will be vastly superior to the Well straight out of the box so it should perform better during the upgrading period.

I have looked for it but I wanted to try and "build" a rifle on the forum before I actually went out and bought it, because I dont want to spend out lots of money on a gun only to find that I can't do what I wanted to do with it.

I know the Well is massively upgradeable as it is a Maruzen clone, so I won't go into that on here, but the brief for what I want from my rifle is as follows:

  • Accuracy is first priority, and ideally with a level of tuning or adjustment.[/*:m:16be3bew]
  • I need to be able to change springs out as my local skirmish site has a 1J power limit, but I want more power when I go elsewhere.[/*:m:16be3bew]
  • Parts must be high quality, as I am a believer in "solid is good"[/*:m:16be3bew]
  • I want a fluted barrel, and a flash hider for aesthetics.[/*:m:16be3bew]
First, the only fluted barrel I can find is this one. I notice it comes with its own barrel cap, but does this mean it doesn't have the same end threads as the stock TM barrel, and the real issue is will this CCW silencer cap fit?

If it does there is a nice Guarder flash hider that fits 14mm CCW.

Next, the inner barrel. It seems that there are only 2 replacement inner barrels available for the TM L96, one of which being the PDI .01 Inner barrel and the other being the Twist barrel. Do you guys have any experience with either of these? I had heard that a 6.03mm inner barrel was more accurate than a 6.01 for a Type 96 clone, but does the same apply to the Tokyo Marui, or is the PDI 01 a good barrel to buy?
As far as the twist is concerned I have doubts about how it works. It says it COMBINES twist with hop, but I dont see how this is possible. As the ball spun around the twist the hop would rotate through 360 degrees instead of hopping "up" as designed. Has anyone tried or got any knowledge of this barrel?

Next would be the hop-up itself. The Type 96 clones have the PDI hop-up which is tried and tested, but there doesn't seem to be any upgrade hop-up for the TM L96 AWS. Does it need one, or is the stock unit good enough to be comparable to a clone fitted with a PDI unit?

So we are back to the receiver and the internals. As with the Type 96 it seems that both PDI and Laylax make competing parts, and I know that Inthetallgrass reccomended PDI for the whole lot for the Type 96. They seem to have pretty much everything at

But when it comes to Laylax I had to go all over the place to find a full set.This site has some Laylax parts, being a spring guide, Zero trigger and cylinder head. The trigger comes with a piston and there is a Laylax cylinder available from TNT again (thanks Woogie for that site)

The final thing that I was intending to do with the Type 96 clone was to build two complete bolt/cylinder/spring units, one for full power and the other for 1 Joule. This was based on how easily the Type 96 bolt and cylinder slide out simply by dropping the trigger sear, and also on the fact that you can buy replacement bolt handles, guides and base parts for the Type 96. The end result of my idea was to be able to change between full power and 1J within seconds with no tools needed at all.

I have noticed with all of the TM L96 dissassembly guides I have seen that the whole receiver assembly is taken off the stock. Can you TM L96 owners tell me if the TM bolt is "quick release" in the same way, or whether changing the cylinder ALWAYS requires that you dissassemble the gun in some way?

Also if you CAN quick-release the bolt and cylinder set I would be very interested if you know whether you can obtain direct replacements for the bolt/carrier/handle arrangement so that I can still carry out my "quick-change" idea.

Finally I want a bipod, but I am a bit confused about the attachment with the pin sticking out of the front of the gun, is there a proper name for that attachment so I can be sure to get the correct one, or do you recommend a specific one?

So, in summary the TM L96 AWS "E-Build" looks like this:

  • Guarder flash-hider[/*:m:16be3bew]
  • TM 14mm CCW silencer adapter[/*:m:16be3bew]
  • MMC Fluted barrel[/*:m:16be3bew]
  • MMC Barrel Spacers[/*:m:16be3bew]
  • PDI 01 Inner barrel[/*:m:16be3bew]
  • Hop-up bucking at least, if no Hop-up complete is available[/*:m:16be3bew]
  • PDI Palsonite HD Cylinder set[/*:m:16be3bew]
  • Spring (there are quite a few available, suggestions please)[/*:m:16be3bew]
  • PDI V-Trigger[/*:m:16be3bew]
  • Cheek-rest hand-screw things[/*:m:16be3bew]
If you guys know that any of this is bad news or simply won't fit your input would be much appreciated. To anyone thinking of buying the TM L96 AWS but is put off by the fact that the upgrades are tricky to find I hope the links on here help

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I would forget the V-trigger and get the MMC trigger. It is a great set for the rifle, in that it comes with the piston, spring, and spring guide as well as the trigger mech. And they are all very well made.

The barrel is a little bit different, so you may be able to mod one to fit the chamber if you needed to. I have my spare laylax barrel in my basement, from my shorty build... I can get some pics of it and post them here, so you can see what the hop side looks like.

Though honestly I am very pleased with the stock inner barrel. That is what I am running in mine right now, I did have to cut it down a little bit to end up flush with the end of the suppressor.
But over all the barrel is very nice, and with a little bit of hop up work, it is great over all. And at the length I have the inner barrel the rifle is shooting just at 500fps, so great for me!
I would get a raven cylinder instead of a palsonite simply because it is cheaper and pretty much the same.
The TM bolt is not quick release.

And this is due to the placement of the mag. Because it is in the correct spot, the rifle uses a "ramp" system to load the bb. There is a finger that is attached to the nozzle, and when you pull the bolt back, this finger pulls back into the mag and peels off a round.

In order to get the bolt out of the rifle you have to dismantle the entire rifle.... and honestly it is a pain in the butt. The one plus with the system is that it is very VERY nice. And it looks really nice as well. This is one of the reasons why I bought the rifle in the first place.

One question though ......... why do you want to change between a high powered bolt assembly, and a low powered bolt assembly? If you are wanting something to use during a CQB game, I would look at another rifle and work on it from that. Because with the 500mm inner barrel, the rifle is quite long. And I would not want to run around with the rifle in a tight environment, thus the reason why I bought the Laylax CQB inner and outer barrel.
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The TK creates a cushion of air around the bb as it flies. In my experience it was massively successful, but you have to have a very large cylinder volume. In the AEG it resides in now, the cylinder is PSG-1 length. You don't quite need a bore-up in the type 96es, but IDK about the TM L96.
woogie said:
One question though ......... why do you want to change between a high powered bolt assembly, and a low powered bolt assembly? If you are wanting something to use during a CQB game, I would look at another rifle and work on it from that. Because with the 500mm inner barrel, the rifle is quite long. And I would not want to run around with the rifle in a tight environment, thus the reason why I bought the Laylax CQB inner and outer barrel.
Its not for CQB, I use my friend's Cyma C36C AEG for that. The reason I want to be able to quick-change is because the site where I skirmish regularly has a 1 joule limit across the board with no exceptions for sniper rifles.

I am not going to stop going there because regardless of the fps limit the guys who run it and the regulars who skirmish there are excellent, not to mention it's a 3 minute drive from my house, but with that said I dont want to sell myself short on power when I DO go to larger sites with higher FPS limits for snipers.

This is why it is also useful for me if it was a quick change, I might want to go to a full-fps place on Saturday and then back to our regular haunt on a Sunday and I am sure you can imagine how slick it would be with the clone rifle to just drop the sear, slide the hi-fps bolt out, slide the lo-fps bolt in, click up the sear and be good to go for the next day (plus I would feel like Bob-Lee Swagger

With that said I am not going to base my entire decision on that one thing alone, I am starting to get a gut feeling that I am leaning towards the TM. Can you give me a guess as to roughly how long it would take you to change out the spring once you had done it a few times and were quite quick at it?

woogie said:
I would forget the V-trigger and get the MMC trigger. It is a great set for the rifle, in that it comes with the piston, spring, and spring guide as well as the trigger mech. And they are all very well made.
Thanks for that info. I did see that set on there but of course everyone raves about PDI so much you are pretty much guaranteed the quality. If you say that MMC is just as good it's probably the better alternative.

Grass, thanks for pointing that cylinder out... what IS the difference between the Raven and the Palsonite?

And thanks for the info on the twist Cheese... I can see why it would need such a large cylinder with all the air whizzing past the ball... maybe I will save that until I get further down the line and can have a few guns to mess about with ;)

In the meantime I have found another option for the fluted barrel on X-fire here this looks pretty cool and of course it removes the end-cap problem because PDI sell one to fit :)

Thanks for all your input guys, finding a definitive guide to modding the TM L96 is pretty tricky so I think between us we are creating it right here! Love ASF!! :-*

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That makes sence with the quick change idea....

If you are wanting that I would go with the UTG MK96. It does have the quick release bolt assembly, so you can just pull the bottom pin, pull out your cylinder, and change out for another one.

The one thing that I would suggest would be to skip the twist barrel and work on the hop up. Becuase changing back and forth between the 1J cylinder and the 500fps cylinder it could cause the barrel to act up. Get a good inner barrel and go from there. I would also suggest that you paint each of the bolt handles a different color, so you can know just by looking at them what cylinder is what ;)
The alternative I was looking at was the Well MB-01 as it is far more readily available in the UK than the UTG, and being another clone it accepts all the Maruzen upgrades, but yeah your point is correct, clones have the ability to quick-change the bolts very easily.

However as I said this quick-change thing isn't the ONLY consideration, and as far as the basic gun is concerned I really prefer the TM for many reasons. Previously a huge "con" for me was the lack of upgrades but that situation seems to have changed since I first started planning this.

And yeah I am already ahead of you with the colour coding, but I was going to change that tiny red dot on what would be the cocked indicator on a real-steel L96 for a tiny green dot on the low-fps bolt so that I could identify the two bolts but without making the gun look like an accident on an episode of Sesame Street!!

I hadn't thought of the changes to the hop with the changes in power... I am guessing that for the TM with that easy click-wheel hop-adjustment I could find the correct hop setting for each power and just click back and forth between them... but thats assuming that changing the cylinder or spring in the TM isnt going to be a 3 hour job every time!!

This is so annoying... choosing whether to go clone or TM is driving me nuts because I really dont want to make the choice and then regret it... my heart is telling me TM but my head is telling me clone... really it's coming down to real magazine placement and the calming effect that has on my OCD, versus the ability to quick-switch the bolts... and obviously the build quality of the stock...

:(" title=":mad:" border="0"/>

Thanks again for taking the time to read my ramblings and help me out!!
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I would say get the TM and use another rifle for the 1J field ;) BAM best of both worlds.

It doesn't take to long to take down the TM L96 either.
Remove from stock
Remove feed ramp
Remove outter barrel assembly
Remove bb guide, thing on the cylinder nozzle
Remove cylinder
Thats actually a nice idea... I could get the TM and upgrade everything except the spring until I can afford a whole new weapon.

I was going to buy that G36C off my mate for CQB anyway, and I could trick that out as some kind of pseudo DMR affair

Wow... that sounded like something coming close to being the beginnings of a decision... cheers man!!

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No worries man.

Another option that you may be able to do, would be an Echo1 M28. They are great for the price, though the one thing I would suggest would be a TM L96 2nd sear for it ( the little finger that grabs the piston). Yes it fits and works just fine.

Do a few DIY mods to that rifle and you should be set to go. Then you have no excuse for messing up the FPS for each field.
Thanks dude, although I gotta admit I am not a huge fan of the sniper rifles with the traditional rifle-stock look to them (BAR 10 etc etc)

The local field that I play in isn't actually a great sniper place, its quite heavily wooded so long shots are tricky and there are so many bushes and stuff that you end up hitting leaves and things along the way, obviously this wouldn't be a problem for real steel but with a tiny plastic ball the leaves deflect them off all over the shop...

With that said there ARE times where you just think "if only I had a scope and something a little more accurate" which is why I mentioned that G36C/DMR idea, it would be a good compromise between accuracy and firepower and would leave me free to power-up the TM to my hearts content.

Interestingly enough (if you are still reading at this point) one of the scariest guns that one of the regular members brings is a Systema PTW M4 Max. The amount of times that I have poked my head around a tree and seen that guy at about the max range for my G36, sprayed him and watched as all my BBs either fall short or miss altogether, only to have him give me a perfect 3-round burst to the face.

I asked him what power it was pushing out (I was a little reluctant to believe he was under the 1J limit) and he chronoed it for me with a .20 at 320fps. He had the hop-up professionally adjusted but other than that the weapon is completely standard, so it just goes to show that careful micro-adjustment of the hop, combined with high quality parts for consistency (the gun cost him
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Yup yup.

I must say if you would be ok with a "normal" looking rifle...

Go with a VSR
Get the Laylax aero chamber
And get yourself a TK twist barrel

That combo will yeild some amazing results. The one I had for a few games was amazing at the shorter ranges. But as we play in a lot of open fields, and the wind is usually a problem the more fps is always a plus for me. But in your area it would be great.

And yes like you are saying, I would go more for the accuracy than I would for the fps.
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