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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)

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It all depends on air seals. I have not heard god things about the LL z-trig piston. I've been told by several people that it is brittle or gives a terrible air seal. Compare the LL piston to the stock piston or any other upgrade piston you may have. Also you want to get a better air seal in the hopup. Try the teflon tape or dental floss mod, or better yet, make sure it is all correctly installed. Also make sure you have everything lubed and all o-rings involved are in working order.

Theoretically you should get 492 fps with the m150 spring, because the "m150" means 150 meters per second, or so I think. Don't hold me to that though. I am getting a near perfect air seal with my bucking and a perfect air seal with my cylinder and I get around 550 fps with it, although this is just using a home made chrono.

The best tip I can give you if you are worried about fps is to read this guide Silent made on DIY mods for gaining fps: http://airsoftsniperforum.com/showthread.php?t=4260 but to be honest the lower fps will get you better accuracy.
 

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I have had problems with the Laylax red piston. I think the orange is same except its 90 degree. Try to test your compression by putting your finger in the cylinder nozzle for 60 seconds. If the piston doesnt hit the cylinder head in that time, you know your cylinder compression is very good.

The second most leak comes from CYLINDER HEAD NOZZLE BUCKING connect, not the BUCKING BARREL connect. So teflon tape isnt a big deal, seriously. I would do antiblowby rings out of brass tubing because they provide you 100% seal in the hop up. I really prefer doing those. I made mine from 9.1mm inner diameter and 10 outer diameter brass tube.

Third thing: G-Specs barrel is too short for using effectively all your cylinder's air. So when you shoot, the bb is already out from the barrel when your piston is still compressing the air. I hope you understand how the cylinder works so you can start modifying it by reducing the compression volume so the piston can accelerate longer and still have enough air to push the bb out. I reduced it about 30mm which is almost too much. So I would reduce it only about 25 or 20mm. See this thread : http://www.airsoftretreat.com/forums/index.php?topic=88662.0

Good fix also is getting a longer barrel and maximum 500mm, the standard 430mm is fine. Not over 500mm because then there isnt enough air in the cylinder to push the bb out of the barrel and that will result in lower fps and probably a little worse accuracy.

Hope you try some of these and post your results!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
So you would use the stock piston over the LL trigger piston?

Can you redirect me to a piston that works? + and cylinder head ?

All this upgrades I struggle to do because of the english.. So I need to take this slowly.. =)
 

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What I meant by teflon tape was to put it on the part of the bucking where the nozzle contacts it. It is tricky to get it right but it does help with the air seal. A better method than what I said though is to coat the top of the cylinder head nozzle in a few coats of clear nail polish. This will do the same thing as the teflon but won't come off and you can add as many coats as you want. The dental floss is for the bucking/barrel connection. You don't need to get a new cylinder head because it is very easy to modify this one without doing any damage.

If you can get the Action Army blue piston that comes with the AA zero trigger, that gives a fantastic air seal. You would have to look around for it on the forums though because I just tried looking for it online and could only find an orange piston by them which might work the same but I'm not sure. Other than that I don't have too much experience with different pistons. All I can say is do not get a Matrix brand piston and to test your cylinder air seal like Wiltsu described.

P.S. Wiltsu, go make an into before you make another post.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Forgot completly i ordered a TM with 280 FPS. So i got a soft bucking.. Want to recommend a hopup bucket that will do fine between 400 - 550 ? =)

I changed to stock piston cuz it didnt leak so much as the LL piston. (by the method u mention over here). And the 430mm barrel is in. Did a whole lot of change in the range on the bb's. Havent chrono after piston change.

Ordering a 170 spring, and a new bucket as soon someone helps me out on this one =)

Thanks everyone
 

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If you really want to get a modified nub then get an SCS nub and glue it to your arm, but it's not necessary. I used the stock nub before I started using r-hop and it worked fine for me. The softer the bucking is the more consistent it will be, but the faster it will wear out. The harder the bucking is the less consistent it will be, if only slightly more inconsistent, but will wear out at a much slower rate. I recommend a nineball bucking because it is slightly softer (I think) than a FF hard but harder than a soft bucking, so it is a great tradeoff. It will also give you a fantastic air seal and before I used it with the r-hop it gave be good consistency.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
So apparently i walked down to 380 in fps. from 400 ish (and jumpy)

video of the chrono:


aint up yet. 20% now.
 

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Take the o ring from the stock piston and put that on the LL that should help sort some off the problem,removing the air break will also add fps.The stock piston won't last long on a sp150 anyway.

The fps will be slightly lower as you are using a shorter barrel with a cylinder that has a lot more air than the barrel needs as well.
If you are still using the stock 303 barrel that is, if so I would get a 430mm.The LL 6.03 is good.
As for the bucking the stock tm one is actually very good,but you may want to mod the hop arm for use with heavy bb's.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
changed to ll 6.03 =) already noticed a range increase but not a great fps. going to change to LL piston again.

What do you mean with air break?

ty
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
srsly? how does that work ? if i reduce it liek 50 %?
 

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As Fuzzy would say, fix your grammar please. The air brake is used for quieting the rifle by somewhat blocking the air hole in the cylinder head, which slows down the piston right before it hits to create less of an impact. If you take it off, the piston will be able to use all of the room in the cylinder and accelerate the entire way. It won't give you too much fps but it will definitely help a bunch. I just cut mine clean off before I upgraded it but you can cut any off at all and it will still help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Sorry for the grammer =/

So, i have done the air break mod. Amazing. Why don't it come with this all things we figure out ?

Easy said. Went from 380 to 470 ish. FPS

Thanks for that one = )

Left on list is the hopup. Feeling it need a tuneup. I got all stock TM. Should i change bucket, nub and chamber?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Ow, Also what is this plastic tube that followed with the 430mm laylax barrel? =)
 

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ow. I honestly didn't explect that kind of increase in fps. And what plastic tube are you talking about?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
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