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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm gonna buy a tridos tdc soon and want to know what you guys' opinion is on the basic vs pro.
Mainly, is the pro worth the extra money?
Does it really help to have the clicker?
Is the pro lower profile than the basic?
 

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Obviously biased opinion as I'm the guy behind TRIDOS:
  1. It's definitely nice but the performance will be identical for both - I'll leave this for others to answer.
  2. Most people will say no even though they haven't tried it. I personally think it's very helpful - for a beginner it's easier to have a consistent adjustment every time instead of guessing angles and for experienced player, you can switch from a laser straight line to a slight overhop between shots back and forth, knowing how many clicks it takes and getting shots that you might not otherwise be able to take based on your situation (this is obviously a skill you have to learn).
  3. BASIC and PRO uses exactly the same screw. So no - the total height is identical for both and if you get a BASIC, you can later buy the PRO housing separately. Everything else stays the same.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Obviously biased opinion as I'm the guy behind TRIDOS:
  1. It's definitely nice but the performance will be identical for both - I'll leave this for others to answer.
  2. Most people will say no even though they haven't tried it. I personally think it's very helpful - for a beginner it's easier to have a consistent adjustment every time instead of guessing angles and for experienced player, you can switch from a laser straight line to a slight overhop between shots back and forth, knowing how many clicks it takes and getting shots that you might not otherwise be able to take based on your situation (this is obviously a skill you have to learn).
  3. BASIC and PRO uses exactly the same screw. So no - the total height is identical for both and if you get a BASIC, you can later buy the PRO housing separately. Everything else stays the same.
well this is a very helpful answer. i have a couple more questions.
do you ever have sales on the tdcs? I'm kinda low on money rn
how long does shipping take?
oh and will it work with the masada arm?
 

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I don't see any reason to use any other arm. I ordered pro version myself and the quality of it is just amazing. Tolerances of the parts are super tight and everything fits together perfectly.
You can get all the information about it from this YT video:
 

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well this is a very helpful answer. i have a couple more questions.
do you ever have sales on the tdcs? I'm kinda low on money rn
how long does shipping take?
oh and will it work with the masada arm?
We only do sales only once a year during Black Friday. We try to price our products fairly so that we wouldn't have to run discounts all the time like others do.

Edit: Sorry, missed the other two questions.. You can see shipping costs and estimated delivery time on the checkout. And no, it will not be compatible with Masada arm to my knowledge - TDC 2.0 uses a system with nubs instead of the arms so that the force being applied is always vertical and then we have a few nubs to select from that have different profiles / shapes so people can test out their theories on what shapes in theory work better and stuff like that. Long story short - as far as I know the masada arm is essentially a full contact arm / nub which matches the radius of the bucking. All of our nubs are basically like that - black ones are always full contact nubs that use most contact surface and some are with curvatures on the start and end of the nubs. If you'll see the product pictures, you'll see the different shapes of the nubs.

TDC 2.0 is a complete system that we've based on all the most popular arms / nubs and TDC's out there and made it foolproof and simple to install. I can assure you that you'll be getting at least the same performance as some of the best "arms" or "nubs" out there - ours are just precision machined aluminum, instead of 3D printed. The only thing that we don't include is any of the soft nubs but if you get the AA version of the TDC 2.0, you will have the option to use any of the widely available soft nubs as well with the red aluminum nub.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
We only do sales only once a year during Black Friday. We try to price our products fairly so that we wouldn't have to run discounts all the time like others do.

Edit: Sorry, missed the other two questions.. You can see shipping costs and estimated delivery time on the checkout. And no, it will not be compatible with Masada arm to my knowledge - TDC 2.0 uses a system with nubs instead of the arms so that the force being applied is always vertical and then we have a few nubs to select from that have different profiles / shapes so people can test out their theories on what shapes in theory work better and stuff like that. Long story short - as far as I know the masada arm is essentially a full contact arm / nub which matches the radius of the bucking. All of our nubs are basically like that - black ones are always full contact nubs that use most contact surface and some are with curvatures on the start and end of the nubs. If you'll see the product pictures, you'll see the different shapes of the nubs.

TDC 2.0 is a complete system that we've based on all the most popular arms / nubs and TDC's out there and made it foolproof and simple to install. I can assure you that you'll be getting at least the same performance as some of the best "arms" or "nubs" out there - ours are just precision machined aluminum, instead of 3D printed. The only thing that we don't include is any of the soft nubs but if you get the AA version of the TDC 2.0, you will have the option to use any of the widely available soft nubs as well with the red aluminum nub.
ok thanks so much. the price isn't bad and im definitely not waiting till thanksgiving to buy it. you'll get my order in soon. also the nubs you offer sound great. i just didnt know what the performance would be like. thanks for all your help! mike and everyone else!
 

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@practicalmike

I'm a bit late to the game, but I've been interested in the tridos for a little while now, however I'm under the impression that it won't work with my MLC388 OEM chamber (the original version, not the new one that just came out)

If I'm incorrect, which "variant" am I suppose to pick up? (and would the drill hole guide be applicable)
 

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@practicalmike

I'm a bit late to the game, but I've been interested in the tridos for a little while now, however I'm under the impression that it won't work with my MLC388 OEM chamber (the original version, not the new one that just came out)

If I'm incorrect, which "variant" am I suppose to pick up? (and would the drill hole guide be applicable)
Unfortunately I don't have every possible OEM chamber on hand to verify any compatibilities but from my experience each of the chambers are a little different and most likely will not work nicely out of the box with our TDC's. In your case I would strongly recommend just picking up either the AA chamber or maybe getting the Novritsch SSG10 chamber as a spare part or buying off it from someone who doesn't use it.
 

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I'm gonna buy a tridos tdc soon and want to know what you guys' opinion is on the basic vs pro.
Mainly, is the pro worth the extra money?
Does it really help to have the clicker?
Is the pro lower profile than the basic?
Like What Siliconesword said it does help prevent snagging having the click adjustment also does help with very small adjustments although one could absolutely due without if they don't want to spend the extra money.
 

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I’ve owned both for the AA chamber and loved it as there is no bumping of the stock hop arm. I think the pro is a nice upgrade to hide the drilled hole, and that the positive click is nice to have when making hop adjustments while shooting. The choice of nub is nice, along with the nub filling up the whole window. I personally prefer the aluminum nubs to something like an omega nub with the red Tridos nub because there is more rigidity to the nub, which I believe helps the consistency of shots. It is also nice that it comes with a guide for drilling out the hole for the screw so it is not necessary to line the hole up to drill it out
 
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