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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Ultimate Silencing Guide for L96 Sniper Rifle (VSR etc. too)

Well here's the guide :tup:
What you need:


A Rifle (Preferably type 96)
High density foam (like in memory pillows) Or just the regular cheap foam will do fine. (get anywhere)
Another spring for your gun or just use the original. (This depends whether or not you want to cut your spring)
Plastic milk container or similar material
Ductape, electrical tape and telefon tape.
Hotglue/superglue (not essential)
Scissors/Knife.
Locktite.
Some sort of silicon grip for a wii or something like that. (Dealextreme and similar china wholesale sites have them for a dollar or 2)
And the tools necessary to take apart your gun of course ^.^


Let's start off with the silencer (If you have one)
---If you don't I recommend making one.
It's rather simple, just a piece of 2 inch or whatever you desire, radius PVC piping and two caps for the end. Then just a way to attach it.
(And painting or wrapping it would be a good idea)
I'll be showing you what to put in them later in the tutorial---

These generally perform poorly, but we can improve on that.

Here's my gun. See the silencer up the front? Screw that off. Then screw off the bottom part.


You should then get something like this or it may be empty.


Now, take out all the foam inside unless there is none.


Now this is where the plastic milk carton comes in.


Basically cut circular pieces the same diameter as the silencer and the cut holes in the middle slightly bigger than a bb. It's important you have it in a similar order to mine, as in don't have a spacer first have it like so: foam then spacer, foam then spacer, foam then spacer, foam and then then spacer last.



See? You can sort of see the spacer is last



I don't have images included but you should also replace the foam supplied with the silencer with foam of your own. High density foam etc. is generally much better then the supplied stuff. I have seen a significant change in pitch by using better foam.

TIP - Supposedly using a combination of coarse and fine foam works best. as in Coarse, fine, coarse etc.

Alright what's next? Ahh, the bipod. This one's simple but handy :yup:

Just wrap a tiny bit of Ductape around the part that locks into the gun. This will reduce the noise of the thing wobbling quite a lot.


Now, see the little allen screw on top of the tri-rail? Un-screw it and put on some locktite because it comes loose constantly and that causes rattling. You can thank me later


Now, another small modification for those using a full sized spring (You'll get what I mean later on)

You need some sort of soft silicon like a grip for a wii remote.


Then you cut it and super glue it to your cylinder head. Don't put on too much and don't, whatever you do put it on your piston head. It just slows down the piston (Friction etc.) and stops your gun from shooting and gets bashed up and comes off quite easily. Some are successful at this, but I am just giving you my experience :mad:



Alright then here are the two more major mods. I'll do the foam one first. The foam mod works because much of the noise coming from your gun when you fire is actually the body rattling. Adding foam helps to stop this rattling.

For this all you need is foam and scissors. Oh and something long, hard and thin, such as a long allen key or screwdriver etc. (Nothing else to those of you who are dirty minded :lame: joke...)

I used that memory foam pillow because it is very high density and shrinks to a small size but then expands again. You can use normal foam too though I just find this works best.


This mod is really simple. Just cut it up into small pieces and shove it into empty spaces in your gun with the allen key until it can't hold any more. Make sure it's good and tight or else it won't work properly. Also make sure it doesn't go over the screw holes, magazine port, trigger port etc.

Just take apart the gun. The top and bottom part. The cheek rest and the buttstock.


And just stick in as much as possible into the but stock and super glue some into the cheek rest. The more the merrier!!




Then push in as much as possible into these gaps. Remember to cut the foam into small pieces so you can fit more in.




Then super glue some to the top where the barrel rests. Also glue some to where the trigger rests and on the trigger and bolt housing itself.



Now here is the last mod. This mod isn't possible for everyone to do. You need to have a Chronograph or be at a place where you can use one.


I live in Ireland where the power limit is 1 joule. The spring I received with my gun was over that so I had to cut it down. Results may vary :p

If you are buying a more powerful spring for the sake of cutting it down to your power (just quieter) make sure your sears and triggerbox can take it. As a more powerful spring will still have a similar compressing force even if it's cut!!!

Firstly you need a spring which is above your desired power. I have a 450 fps one which came with the gun and an upgrade kit one which shoots 485 fps. So I cut the 450 fps one.... and quite a lot for that matter to get the 328 I was looking for.


Alright firstly take out your bolt. Ignore the electrical tape and pull down that thing in front of the trigger. Also take off the cheek rest first.



Alright now you have this.


Un-screw the Cylinder head.

Now take out the piston and spring.
The one on the left is the one which came with the gun and it's cut. The middle one is the normal sized one. And ignore the one on the right. I just used a multi-tool to cut the spring.


Now cut the spring one or two rings at a time (maybe 3 if you live dangerously) and put back together the gun and chrono it. Keep cutting the spring one ring at a time until the desired FPS is reached. Only cut it a few coils at a time. Cutting a spring in half won't half it's power.... they don't work like that :ashamed:


Now see how far down my piston is. When fired the piston never actually hits the cylinder head thus creating very little noise.

When you put back together your gun you gun you may need tape to keep your bolt release in, the thing in front of your trigger.




Tips and tricks

1 - If it rattles tape it!
Some people even tape the bottom of the spring guide to keep the spring from rattling.

2 - Keep your gun lubed not only for performance, air seal etc. but it also keeps it much quieter.

3 - Try to use good springs like PDI ones that don't lose FPS/consistency and have easier draws. They will naturally make less noise. IMO don't ever get tapered springs unless made by a reputable company.

4 - Make sure to keep your O-rings lubed if you can but not over lubed. Silicon grease is best, but don't apply too much or any to the piston head. (Past the o-ring)

5 - I don't have need for one so that is why I haven't made one but if your are to make an airbrake be very careful. You can mess up your piston and scratch the inside of your cylinder if made wrong. However if they are made right, mother of god you can have a quiet gun :shot:

6 - Downgrading your spring will naturally make your gun quieter but with a lower FPS, if the Mods are done right you can still have a significantly quieter than average gun.

7 - Make sure all your screws are good and tight (But not over tight so as to not damage your gun)

8 - When making the silencer a good combo is to use different types of foam, such as - Coarse foam, fine foam etc. The combo will help improve sound absorption.

9 - MAKE BARREL SPACERS. Even if you buy them make some more of your own. In combination with a Steel barrel the vibrations will be cut down immensely, causing better accuracy and a quieter gun.

Now your done. Hopefully these mods will help you be the Ghillie in the mist we all aspire to be.... or already are ;)
These can all be done with a stock gun as well. So combine this with the plethora of other stock mods and you can have one fine gun!

Here's my gun as it is now, with a better home-made lightweight silencer, changed out internals, and quieter than ever.

Now you're the silent killer

 

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Awesome awesome guide. This has been one of my favorite and most interesting "how to" threads. I am going to move this to the "others" section because it involves the l96 clone rifle.

Stickied for pure awesomeness, and amazing value to l96 owners. Keep in mind everyone, these concepts are applied to other rifles as well.
 

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Very nice man!

Some of these are very basic things, but you can't always find them any where. You always hear about them, but never anything like the walk though.

Good job, and great work man.

+1 from me
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Theoretically they concentrate the flow of air into the foam better thus reducing sound by a little bit. Without the silencer the gun makes a crack sound, with it it is as load but a poof noise and with the spacers it is actually a bit quieter. It is for me anyway.
No silencer<Silencer<Silencer with spacers
 

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The Plastic inserts in the barrel extension act as baffels breaking up sound and re-directing sound and air into the absorbing material.

Be carefull though, these kinds of can attract the attention of LEO.
 

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Wrong cheese ;)

But not going to start something about that here.

You need to see where he is at guys. Suppressors are legal in the country that he is playing in. Here in the US you are really walking a fine line. Most people wont say anything as it is on a toy gun. But tick off the wrong person and you can be in a world of hurt ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
In texas though silencers are legal on real guns? I didn't think that they'd be that iffy in America about toy silencers. Like, your allowed get a 50 cal sniper rifle but not a silencer. Also considering they don't even silence your gunnwithout subsonic bullets. Here in Ireland my uncle didn't have much hassle to get a silencer on his real gun. I don't think he even has to pay more for it. His excuse was that he just didn't want to disturb the neighbors too much. ;)
 

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I have tried to get the foam in to the stock before and I got some of it in there, but how to you get the foam all of the way to the back of the stock? This has been a huge challenge for me.
 

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For by Bar10, I used a busted hockey stick I had laying around. I cut the jagged part off with a hacksaw and used it as a push rod.

For a Type96 i would think a link handled screw driver would work......
 
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