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I'm assuming from this and your other posts you have access to proper machining tools (lucky).

Design as presented should work, and provided you make your threads nice, shouldn't really back out.
Issues are no definitive restoring force so your hop will take a few shots to 'settle in' whenever you back off the hop.
You won't have much adjustment range but since your making your parts to actual tolerances and not the backside of a barn tolerances most airsoft parts come with, should be fine. I'm assuming your using actual hardened steel threads... And not cast pot metal.

Little things I'd do for quality of life (thumb screw for the drive screw, notching/engraving measurements, etc)

But. Being the SVU user I am... I'd say just look at that hop design and copy.

Nub/carrier is square with guide rails to go up and down. This carrier has a threaded portion in the vertical to a nut on top.
Twisting the nut drives the carrier up/down.
Nut is indexed with a spring & ball bearing to give something like 20 clicks per revolution.

I don't know if you could fit it and be able to turn the nut up top as easily on m4 vs ak esq platforms. But your machining your own stuff so doesn't really matter. Make that top nut a bevel gear or similar to allow you to operate the mechanism from the side.

Sure one design is probably a good 5x as much machine work...
 
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