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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was taking apart my UTG l96 and I removed the bolt. I unscrewed the back of it, where the part is that you cock the gun with, a small pin fell out of the part that you grab. I have tried to reassemble this part but I can not get it back in place correctly. I would post a picture but my computer is dumb and wont let me.

My second question was if I were to purchase a PDI hop up chamber.
http://www.airsoftatlanta.com/PDI_Hop_Up_Chamber_Type_96_p/66229.htm
Would I have to buy a new barrel right a way to fight the hop up, or would the old stock one work in the time being?
 

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sniper4ever said:
I was taking apart my UTG l96 and I removed the bolt. I unscrewed the back of it, where the part is that you cock the gun with, a small pin fell out of the part that you grab. I have tried to reassemble this part but I can not get it back in place correctly. I would post a picture but my computer is dumb and wont let me.
Are you referring to one of the pieces in the pic below?

 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yes, the little silver one that connects the the grip part of the bolt.


I would love to put a picture of it, I just don't know how. First forum I have ever been a member of.


Got it!!!! I see how it works now, the bulge on the piece with the red dot holds the silver peace in place. But when you have the bolt in the gun, the silver peace gets pushed back pushing the bulge back and allowing the grip to move up or down.... If that made any sense.
 

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sniper4ever said:
Yes, the little silver one that connects the the grip part of the bolt.
The piece you are referring to is not necessary. Mine fell out and never put it back in. The only thing that little silver piece does is keep the bolt from wiggling around. That is, if you cock the rifle, and take your hand away, the bolt will simply dangle onto the cylinder unit. It just rotates on the cylinder but it does not affect anything.

Its hard to describe, but basically, do not worry about it.
 

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sniper4ever said:
Oh... well, haha, I worried about it. Thanks for the help, your picture set me in the right path. I modified my above post explaining how I fixed it.
Haha, I worried about it too when it happened to me a few months back.

I had gotten the guarder bolt handle, and thought I needed that piece for it to work. Well that silver piece was too big and I spent over four hours carefully sanding it down. Little did I know, but that piece was not required. ::)

I had written a whole guide on how to do it to...


Glad you got it figured out though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Oh, sorry that I did not see your guide, actually kind of better that I didn't because I know that much more now. Thanks for the help!


....Now I cant slide the piece back into the trigger box when I have the bolt in. I will most likely find my problem soon, but Is there a special way to slide the bolt in? Never had this problem until I screwed the back end off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The piece that goes in front of the trigger, sorry I don't know these terms. You have to take that piece out to pull the bolt out.


Cheeseman, I can get the bolt in, yes for stock you have to hold down a little lever like thing. But after I have the bolt back in, the piece that goes next to the trigger ( straight rectangular piece with a curve on the end of it ) will not go in.
 

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sniper4ever said:
The piece that goes in front of the trigger, sorry I don't know these terms. You have to take that piece out to pull the bolt out.

Cheeseman, I can get the bolt in, yes for stock you have to hold down a little lever like thing. But after I have the bolt back in, the piece that goes next to the trigger ( straight rectangular piece with a curve on the end of it ) will not go in.
Are you referring to the spring guide stopper? I thought you figured it out on the other forum? Having problems again?

Once you pull the bolt back, and the cylinder goes with it, and the spring guide stopper pops out a little, you will not be able to get the cylinder unit back into the receiver without dissembling the rifle. I had the spring guide stopper come loose in mid bolt pull, and the sears blocked the cylinder unit from being able to go back into the receiver. The spring guide stopper would not go in either. Not sure if this is your problem, just throwing out there what I have had happen to me in personal experience.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
It is nothing complicated. Let me start from the beginning. To disassemble your gun you have to unscrew the two screws with your Allen wrench. Then the whole gun comes apart. To pull the bolt out you first have to pull the piece out of the trigger, releasing the cylinder/bolt/piston (Sorry, I am not sure which one is which, please spare me). My problem is that piece that you removed to get the whole bolt unit out.... will not go back in. I have taken it out many times and have never had a problem, just this time. Only when I unscrewed the back end of the bolt.

**update**
I think I found the problem. My spring guide is sitting two far back not allowing the space for the metal piece (I'm going to call it the Spring guide stopper) to go up through the trigger box and into the piston.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
It is still not going in...the spring guide needs to move about half a mm in the direction of the barrel to allow space for the Spring Guide Stopper to fit in. I removed the black rod that goes through the cylinder and put it back in (did not see a difference, before and after) and nothing happened. I have no idea what it can be. Please help :'(.
 

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So the issue is getting the spring guide stopper to go back into the trigger box which is attached to the receiver/cylinder?

If so, sometimes the cylinder unit rotates while in the receiver. If you look at your cylinder, you will notice that there is a long gap and you can see the spring and spring guide.



When trying to get the spring guide stopper into the trigger box the cylinder gap needs to be presently facing towards you, so that the spring guide stopper can push up through that gap. If the cylinder is slightly slanted and only part of the "gap" is showing, the spring guide stopper will not go back in.

Simply take an allen wrench to the cylinder and rotate it so that the gap is fully visible and the spring guide stopper should slide right in (through trigger box, connecting itself--here a "snap" noise.)

I think that is what you are referring to, am I right?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Sorry for the delay in post, we just upgraded our internet. Yes you are talking about the right thing, but my spring guide stopper will not go in with the gap in the cylinder facing down. Even if I remove the trigger box, and try to stick the stopper in it wont fit. The spring guide moved back a very tiny amount blocking the gap.

Fuzzy, I should just start doing whatever you say now. So I had the "gap" facing the bottom but I realized that the cylinder was shifted over less and a millimeter. I took the trigger off, and tried to put the stopper just into the cylinder while prying back on the cylinder with a screwdriver. IT WENT IN!! Now when I pull it out the cylinder stayed. Thanks everyone who helped me out. Just give me another day or so to break something else.
 
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