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Ok guys....

Well after working on my rifle for a while, I am going to put up what I have done to it. Figured I would share my progress with everyone, even though I am showing people how to score better in our competition.


Well now that I am home from work, I can get started on this


------First will be a few hop up tweaks and mods that anyone can do.

The first thing that I did was to give the chamber a good cleaning and a good once over. Grab yourself some business cards, or something else of the like. You will end up cutting these and using them as shims.

Now being as each rifle is different, the amount of shims is going to be different for each build. I have had one that needed the shims to be on the outside of the arms, to center them. Then there was the other one that I had that needed only on the one side.

If you really want to play with the hop up you can even put some shims in the center of the arms to spread them out a little bit.

The nub that comes with the the unit, well..... is crap. What I have been doing for a while now has been to take a piece of metal bar. And it just so happens that the long rod that runs from the back of the bolt to the inside of the cylinder is the perfect shape for this use. Cut the size that you need, and insert it into the chamber.

Take it one step further and cut your bar in half. And use a little bit of grease, or something of the like, and attach one to each arm. This will give you an even more precise adjustment when needed.

------Second will be some barrel mods.

Everyone knows of some really good barrel spacers and what not. But what I have found is that the wax, and even some plaster of paris, work great. I got my plaster from my work, and was able to make it at my job. So that was a great plus.

Now to use the plaster, I went about the same steps as if I was using the wax method. Except I took it one step further. I put some lube on the inside of the outer barrel. Then poured some plaster inside in a nice slow pace.

This did add some really nice stability to the rifle, though the weight was huge! All I needed to do to remove the sleeve was to push it from one of the sides. Since I lubed the inside of the outer barrel, she just slid right out.

I am planning on doing the wax method again here tomorrow. I have done them both, and know that there is no real added bonus from going with the plaster. Though if you are looking at adding as much weight as possible, then go this way.

And now thinking about it, since I am building a target rifle, I may go back to this option to make sure that I can get the best shot as possible. I am also thinking about doing a hybrid of the two options. Making the main spacers out of the plaster, and spacing them with the wax between them. May give the best of both worlds.

--------Third will be some sears.

For the sears, just read about what you see on the forums here.


If you really want to go all out, get yourself a nice trigger group. The one I like the best, is the zero trigger.

The one thing that I would do if you are planning on going the sear route, would be to polish as much of the trigger mech as you possibly can. This will reduce the amount of friction on the parts. This will help reduce the amount pressure needed to move the sears to fire the piston.

--------Ok now on to the paint and polish.

This is all about the prep work. The longer and more work you put into this step, the better the out come of the finished product will be.

Really take some time to sand down everything that needs to be prepped. For the polishing, start with a paper that will remove the paint from the part. Then slowly work your way down to a higher and higher grit paper. I usually end with a really really fine steel wool, or a scuff pad. Again the more time and effort you put into this step the better it will look.

Now I have also used some chemical stripper that will take off the paint, or what not you have on the part. The one thing that you need to think about is how the product will affect the metal underneath. Some stripper will mess up the parts, and some wont work at all.

To polish, go to a local hardware store and find a buffing kit. I bought mine from my local Harbor Freight store for $27, if I remember right. Follow the directions and work as slow as you can.

If you are planning on painting the rifle, plan ahead and know what you are going to do before you do it. Always read the paint so you know of any special directions or items that may be needed.

The one thing that I almost always do is lay down a nice base coat of black paint. This just helps the final color look better and turn out a little bit nicer.

If you want to add some texture to the stock, head to your store and find the "stone texture" paint. When you paint it will spray flecks of plaster for the bumpy feel that you need. Another more expensive method is to get some marine tex, apply it to the stock. Grab a plastic bag and put your hand into it, and grab the stock and let go, over and over and over.

What this will do is add little tips all over the marine tex. Let it dry and take some sand paper to it, to take off the tops. If you grab it now....lets just say make sure you have some band-aids close.

Once the texture is on the stock, you can go ahead and lay the base coat and go about your normal painting.

Anything else you guys want to see just let me know, and I will do my best to get something put together.

I am at work currently, so don't have any pics or much time to put up anything as of yet... But when I get home I am going to update this with as much as I can.

So a little suspense till then shall be good.
 
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