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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Greetings everyone

I've been looking into this rifle, and I've heard good things about it. Mainly from Demitri on here but there are still a few things I haven't found answers to.


I understand the high pressure low volume mantra, but not sure what pressure this thing can take. I've found an airsoft gas that has 203 Psi / 14 bar pressure from nimrod. do you think this rifle could handle that? or the high pressure vertex gas from Abbey
Also I live in a very temperamental climate, in the past week temperature has varied from 31C at noon to 15C at noon. Do you think this rifle would perform well with this sort of temperature variance?

Thank you in advance
 

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Hi! That's pretty much the same temperature as I get down here, and the rifle performs perfectly fine on both ends, without major FPS difference between them.

I always run it on Map Pro (which is pure propylene), except if the temperature is expected to raise above the mid 30s, in that case I switch to propane.

here's the pressure / temperature chart for both

propylene
https://www.agaseurope.com/media/2424/r1270-propylene-pt-chart.pdf

propane
https://www.agaseurope.com/media/2422/r290-propane-pt-chart.pdf

As a rule of thumb I like to keep it between 70 and 200PSI, but I'm pretty sure it can work at somewhat lower pressure and stand more.

Don't know about those particular brands, but a PSI claim without providing the temperature at which that measurement is taken doesn't really help...
 

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Well, that was strange, i´m trading a VFC M40A5 Gas sniper in a DMR that i have, and today someone is asking questions of the same gun, should this be a sign?

I´ve spent my day digging information about this sniper, read all posts that i could find here in this forum (thanks Dimitri), and what bugs me its the Magazine for this gun....

It seems to be out of stock everywhere, and i would like to know how many mags (14 bbs each) should i have to properly use this gun at games?

Does the green gas affect the hop effect due to the silicone in it?

and how about lifting .45/.48 bbs???

Thanks guys!
 

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Not a big fan of green gas. I always prefer running dry gas and manually lubricating. Lifting 0.45/0.48 bb's is of no concern assuming you are using the recommended bucking for this type of rifle. If you don't know what that is, then we haven't spammed enough :p
 

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It seems to be out of stock everywhere, and i would like to know how many mags (14 bbs each) should i have to properly use this gun at games?

Does the green gas affect the hop effect due to the silicone in it?

and how about lifting .45/.48 bbs???
I normally carry 5 mags, but everything depends on the type of game and your gaming style.

Silicone screws accuracy. Dry gas all the way, specially for gas BASR

The hop up lifts .48 without issues, at least when running maple leaf decepticon bucking
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Don't know about those particular brands, but a PSI claim without providing the temperature at which that measurement is taken doesn't really help...
Oh must have forgotten to type that..
the pressure claim from Nimrod is at 20C.
Abbay does not list what pressure there gas runs at.
I know they have a gas that is made specifically for snipers Brut sniper gas or something. it's supposedly dry.
there vertex gas is per there own claims there highest pressure yet and only has very little lubrication.

I wrote them to ask, but haven't gotten a reply yet.
 

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Not a big fan of green gas. I always prefer running dry gas and manually lubricating. Lifting 0.45/0.48 bb's is of no concern assuming you are using the recommended bucking for this type of rifle. If you don't know what that is, then we haven't spammed enough :p
How do you Manually lubricate the mag? Here in Brazil we have propane without the silicone, with the adaptor i can fill the mags, but how do i put the silicone oil, and how many drops?

Thanks!!!
 

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I technically don't lubricate my magazines. I don't add silicone to the gas at all either. That would cause the same effect as using green gas. All i really do is lubricate the bolt from time to time with a light amount of oil, and then periodically disassemble the magazines to lubricate the o rings around the fill and knocker valves.
 
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the pressure claim from Nimrod is at 20C.
wooo 203 PSI at 20ºC is a really high pressure gas.. Probably R410A, which I suspect it's what they call "black gas" in airsoft.
https://www.agaseurope.com/media/2411/r410a-pt-chart.pdf

It's normally used for -5ºC to 15ºC in airsoft GBBRs, and I'm sure the M40A5 will stand it at those ranges and probably up to the lower 20s, but it might be too strong to efficiently open the valve above it. Still, this is just speculation... only one way to find out...

How do you Manually lubricate the mag? Here in Brazil we have propane without the silicone, with the adaptor i can fill the mags, but how do i put the silicone oil, and how many drops?
We don't, and we recommend people not to do it either. In a gas BASR there's no parts at all that will benefit from it.

As for GBB(R)s, the only seal that's dynamic and subject to quite some friction and abrupt pressure changes with each shot is the one between the nozzle and bolt carrier / blowback unit. That's the one green gas is designed to auto-lube. All other seals (which means, all seals on the magazine) are static and only have to stand pressure changes when recharging from empty, so you can get away with lubing them once every couple years, maybe never ever.

Putting silicone on the gas makes it accumulate on the bucking and barrel, which is the #1 cause for GBB(R)s bad reputation when it comes to consistency and accuracy imho.
My recommendation is using dry gas, and i you're gonna run a GBB(R), manually lube the seal between the nozzle and bolt carrier / BBU once a month with a tiny drop of light silicone oil directly on it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
wooo 203 PSI at 20ºC is a really high pressure gas.. Probably R410A, which I suspect it's what they call "black gas" in airsoft.
https://www.agaseurope.com/media/2411/r410a-pt-chart.pdf

It's normally used for -5ºC to 15ºC in airsoft GBBRs, and I'm sure the M40A5 will stand it at those ranges and probably up to the lower 20s, but it might be too strong to efficiently open the valve above it. Still, this is just speculation... only one way to find out...
True, as long as it doesn't explode I'd be willing to test it >:D

Reason for all these questions is I'm seriously considering getting one and wanted to confirm the good things I've heard about it.
It's on sale at a nearby store and even with a CJ barrel and bucking it still comes in very cheap. But can't decide between this or mancrafting a Striker AS02
 

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Hi there!
Does anybody knows If exist a tutorial teaching how to reassemble this rifle? Because when you pull the outer barrel there is a little piece that pop of, and the videos that i have found just shows how to disassemble, but i dont know how to put that piece back in place... It seems to be the piece that push the hopup arm....
Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
One last question.

As I understand it the wonder and the super bucking from ML are the latest models of there buckings. which would you recommend?

Asking because the descriptions I've found both say they increase the range over the other at the cost of accuracy. and they can't both be right.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
ok I lied.. I had another question.

Been looking around for mapp-pro or any other pure propylene gas here in Denmark. They are not easy to find heh.

But I managed to find a 400g bottle that's not too expensive.
since I'm on uncharted ground for myself I just want to ask if these are the kind of bottles you use.



Guessing you then attach an adapter like the Madbull XG02 propane adapter to it and your good to go?
 

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As I understand it the wonder and the super bucking from ML are the latest models of there buckings. which would you recommend?
There are two lines of Maple Leaf Buckings, and multiple generations..

The two lines (Diamond and Delta) describe the contact patch shape. Diamond has a W shape, while Delta has a inverted V shape.
They market it as Diamond providing "longer range" while Delta providing "higher accuracy". In reality, Diamond provides slightly wider contact patch which means less hop applied for same effect (which potentially could allow for heavier bbs to be lifted, providing "longer range" in a really deceptive way), while Delta might provide even greater accuracy due to the perfectly centered design...

In my personal experience I have not seen any accuracy or range difference between the two, they're actually both outstandingly accurate and long reaching. The main difference is in the amount of hop pressure needed. As a reference, with a Diamond-shaped Autobot bucking I was able to lift .40g bbs in a WE AK GBBR with still one third of the hop adjustment wheel to spare, while the Delta-shaped Decepticon required full pressure to lift them.

As for generations, the first Diamond and Delta were the Monster series.
Then came the Macaron series, featuring the Autobot (diamond) and Decepticon (delta) buckings. The main "upgrade" is tighter seal lips and an optional C-ring that makes them even tighter.
The next step was the Hero series, featuring the Wonder (diamond) and Super (delta) buckings. Improvements include a contact patch that's slightly longer at the back, which might provide better lift on some guns... depending on how far they insert the bb to begin.

All in all, I would recommend choosing always a Diamond type, and the generation that better suits your chamber / nozzle combination.
Monster diamond is generally better for VSR rifles, as the nozzles (specially most aftermarket ones) can be too wide and therefore damage the tighter fitting Autobots.
For most GBBRs, I would recommend the Autobot buckings. Gas guns greatly benefit from a tight fit between the nozzle and bucking.
The newer Wonder buckings I would choose only for guns that lack the side-alignment groove on the chamber, such as WE SMG-8 or most VFC GBBRs.

As for the M40A5, the option is either an Autobot bucking without the C-ring, or a classic Monster Diamond. 70 or 75º will do, depending on your desired FPS

But I managed to find a 400g bottle that's not too expensive.
yup, those are the bottles we always use.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Being a new owner of one of these, figured I'd post a few observations I've had while getting this thing field ready.

1: Clean it, Clean is like you have never cleaned anything before. Mine was filled with black gun oil even inside the bolt. It was so bad you'd think that they just dunked the whole thing into a vat of oil so disassemble everything and clean it.

2: There is at least 2 versions of this gun, one that is power adjustable and one that isn't. The power adjustable version has a set screw in front of the power adjustment wheel holding it in place, the other has a pin hammed in locking the wheel in place.
Adjusting the power of the locked version is possible, but you need to disassemble the bolt and use a flathead screwdriver and quite a lot of force to turn the wheel.

3. Once you've fired a few hundred shots, disassemble the gun and check the bucking, most likely you missed some gunk somewhere in the gun and the bucking and barrel will be smudged in black oil residue, so clean it again XD

This might be obvious for veterans on here, but figured I'd warn the people new to BASR's
 

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2: There is at least 2 versions of this gun, one that is power adjustable and one that isn't. The power adjustable version has a set screw in front of the power adjustment wheel holding it in place, the other has a pin hammed in locking the wheel in place.
Adjusting the power of the locked version is possible, but you need to disassemble the bolt and use a flathead screwdriver and quite a lot of force to turn the wheel.
Damn, didn't knew they had a locked version. Maybe you can drill the pin out, and maybe even put a new set screw in (threading the hole if necessary)
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
What´s your impressions so far? what bbs weight you´re using?
I haven't fielded it yet due to work, and weathers been too cold and windy to get it dialed in, in power and hop. but from what I've shot it so far I'm quite impressed. I'm not getting the famed consistency yet, but I've only shot about 400 rounds though it with 4 magazines, I can see it getting better so it will just be a matter of time till it's worn in.
I'm currently using .43g bb's but I'm considering going heavier if I can find a good brand that's sold nearby and isn't constantly out of stock.
I also need to find a good supply of high pressure gas, MAPP/PRO is quite expensive (Cheapest I've found so far is 27$ for a 400g bottle) and hard to find here i Denmark and due to the whole hazards material thing it can be a pain to get it shipped in from abroad.
Currently using Abbeys Brut sniper gas. asked them about the pressure rating of this gas, but the guy that knows is apparently on vacation.

Damn, didn't knew they had a locked version. Maybe you can drill the pin out, and maybe even put a new set screw in (threading the hole if necessary)
Nor did I before I wanted to turn up the power a bit, I've considered drilling out the pin. But I'm considering leaving it, if I can dial in the power at the average temperature (I'm going for 2.9 Joules) it's well under the max for BASR's which is 4 Joules any fluctuation in power due to temperature variation should be able to be countered by tuning the hop. and the pin will most definitely keep the power wheel rock steady.

Right now I'm in the "if it isn't broken, don't fix it" part of getting the gun ready. If I can work around it without it having negative consequences then I won't attempt to fix it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
So, I've so far put little over 200 BB's though each of my 4 magazines.
but I'm still not getting the famed consistence of this rifle. the best of the mags if you disregard the first shot has a variance from first to last of 18.5 fps and the worst 35.7 fps.
the screw for the power adjustment is nearly all the way in which is nearly the lowest power if I remember right?. (Haven't fiddled with it much since the locked version is nasty to adjust)
I've switched the stock barrel for a 590mm ML CJ and the bucking to an autobot 75.
Teflon taped the bucking.
Disassembled and cleaned the valves on each mag and lubricated moving parts.
Shimmed the hop up arm


Am I missing something? or does it require more wearing in?

Thank you in advance
 
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