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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello guys,

MYTM Vsr-10 features full PDI Parts, here is the List:

  • PDI Bore Up Cylinder KIT
  • PDI V-Trigger Unit
  • PDI V2 Hop Up Chamber
  • PDI 430mm AEG Barrel
  • And a standard round tensioner, cause the Maple Leaf tensioners are to small for the Hop Up Levers from the PDI Chamber (EPeS HopUp Universal Tensioner Set [E051-UNI-70]) <- this one
  • I am using .45g BB´s

My problem right now is, that my BB´s are getting a strong curve to the right and I dont know how to fix it.
If I completely screw in the hop up adjustment screws in my chamber, I cant push the cylinder far enough back in to shoot, it feels like its stuck. (So I can pull it but if I want to push it back there are approx 2cm missing to get it completely back in position)

Does anyone have ideas to improve my accuracy problem and improve my range?

Greetings from Germany
 

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I suggest that you get an Action Army chamber, an ElvishTac, Snipetor, or Faceless R-hop patch, and a Modify SORA R-hop bucking for a VSR-10.

You can put an AEG barrel in a VSR bucking if you are careful, so you can keep your barrel.
With at AA chamber you'll also need a nub, but you can make one for very cheap if you look at the tutorial in my signature.
After all of that you should have a very well performing rifle.
 

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It's probably the PDI chamber. They are a poor and outdated design. As is the PDI trigger really.
The two arms makes it really hard to get it perfectly straight.
I suppose you could try shimming it- that is to say, putting stuff either side until the arms are perfectly centred, but I wouldn't really bother. I would just replace it.

2 paths here- Rhop or just a good quality Hopup Bucking

If you go with the good quality hopup bucking, get a Maple Leaf Crazy Jet, Action Army Chamber, Maple Leaf Bucking and Masada Arm.

If you go with Rhop get what @SiliconeSword suggested above, but I recommend the Masada Arm over the SS nub as I feel a drop in install is better than waiting for the nub to cure etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I really would like to make the PDI Chamber work, i thought the 2 arms are a good idea, but seems like i was wrong..🤣
Would there be a way to bring the PDI Setup to the precision and range of the AA setup? Is there a tensioner which fits the PDI Arms (The ML are to small to fit)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
i´ll give it a try and otherwise i´ll sell the pdi barrel+chamber and switch to AA (it needs a VSR-Barrel, right?)
 

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An Action Army hopup chamber is designed to be compatible with both VSR10 and AEG barrels. This means that a wider range of barrels can be used. In a stock vsr10 hopup unit, there are some sticky out bits preventing this or something.

However, in a vsr10 bucking, there is a ridge that goes all the way around the end of the bucking.
19163

On a vsr10 barrel, there is a cut out for this ridge.
19164


On an AEG barrel this is not present. (most of the time- you can find it in some barrels, sometimes)
19165


Fortunately, this doesn't actually matter.

You see, the ridge on the VSR10 bucking will simply be smooshed flat by the hopup unit, actually creating a better air seal, than if the cut out for it was present.

This is why you can use the Modify Sora VSR10/GBB style of bucking with an aeg barrel in the Action Army hopup unit.
 

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If you are going to stick with the PDI chamber, glue the 2 arms together. This way they come down evenly
 

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If you are going to stick with the PDI chamber, glue the 2 arms together. This way they come down evenly
You can get a 3d print of just a single arm. I think that might be better, because there is a chance that they could get glued together unevenly.



Another thing that can be done is a double tdc with a small screw over each arm, or a single big tdc that presses down on both.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
So in general the 2 arm system is not working like PDI thought it would? I thought i would be able to adjust the hop up even more precise with it :D
So it will be better to get the 1 arm 3d print or the glue the arms and do the tdc?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
You can get a 3d print of just a single arm. I think that might be better, because there is a chance that they could get glued together unevenly.



Another thing that can be done is a double tdc with a small screw over each arm, or a single big tdc that presses down on both.

the double tdc would be an interesting thing, do u think its easy to make just by using smaller screws and put one at every arm?
 

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the double tdc would be an interesting thing, do u think its easy to make just by using smaller screws and put one at every arm?
I've seen it done before, but it seems to me that it will be a massive pain in the a**e to do.

So in general the 2 arm system is not working like PDI thought it would? I thought i would be able to adjust the hop up even more precise with it :D
So it will be better to get the 1 arm 3d print or the glue the arms and do the tdc?
You will get the same effect with the 3d print and the glued arms, the tdc is just a useful extra.
It doesn't work like they thought it would. A one armed system is humany of times better.
The stock hopup unit is better even. In fact, the stock unit is one of the best vsr10 hopup units available.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I've seen it done before, but it seems to me that it will be a massive pain in the a**e to do.


You will get the same effect with the 3d print and the glued arms, the tdc is just a useful extra.
It doesn't work like they thought it would. A one armed system is humany of times better.
The stock hopup unit is better even. In fact, the stock unit is one of the best vsr10 hopup units available.
I will try the 3d print with the tdc - do u got a "manual" for me? never done it before
Otherwise I would have the stock hop up unit at home.
Would the tdc+one arm be even better if i am using an r-hop?
 

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I will try the 3d print with the tdc - do u got a "manual" for me? never done it before
Otherwise I would have the stock hop up unit at home.
Would the tdc+one arm be even better if i am using an r-hop?
This is with a scope turret, but the same principle applies with a nut and bolt. Alternatively, you can tap threads directly into the outer barrel.
Also here: Top Dead Center Mod (TDC) Guide

Likely, it will perform better with RHOP. You will have more range and the ability to use heavier bbs. Heavier bbs are in turn more accurate than lighter ones.

Use this rhop patch: https://sniperupgrades.com/product/60-r-hop-for-pdi-faceless-barrels/
Use this aeg bucking:https://sniperupgrades.com/product/best-aeg-spec-hopup-rubber-60/
And use the Masada Nub: Ultimate nub by Masada02 on Shapeways
 
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