[LzChase]

Well, I'm stuck. Is it time to give up? Things are working.... Decently, the only thing that I just cannot get right is the bolt. It both pulls and sounds like a rear bumper scraping the asphalt.

Bolt assembly:
Laylax PSS-10 Zero Trigger & Dedicated Piston
Action Army Fluted Cylinder
Action Army Guide Rings
AirsoftPro Spring Guide
Lubricated with ceramic grease.

What has been done:
Cylinder inside polish
Stopper polish
Cylinder Guide Sleeve
Cylinder slot polish

The problems get worse when I run an M140 spring.
The glide rings on the piston have deep scratches in direction with the pull all over them

The bolt behaves differently depending on how I grab the handle. Sometimes it's bad, sometimes very bad, sometimes it goes "tktktktk" and I can feel it rapidly bind and release. It is also very hard to push the last half inch despite the BB stoppers being on low setting. With the high cost of some airsoft parts in Europe, the build has cost over 1520 USD.

I'm slightly upset.

 

[FMP Airsoft]

Looks like you've discovered the age old wisdom that cost =/= performance.

 

[SiliconeSword]

Try removing your scope rail and see how that goes, and afterwards try removing the middle screw on the receiver and see how it goes.

Also, what receiver do you have?

 

[LzChase]

what receiver do you have?

Just the stock one

 

[1tonne]

Take off your outer barrel and then pull the spring and piston out. Then with the spring guide still up in the cylinder, cycle the cylinder back and forwards.
My guess is that your spring guide stopper is catching on the sides of the slit that it fits into.

 

[LzChase]

Take off your outer barrel and then pull the spring and piston out. Then with the spring guide still up in the cylinder, cycle the cylinder back and forwards.
My guess is that your spring guide stopper is catching on the sides of the slit that it fits into.

This actually seems to be correct, However I have no idea what to do here either
What I did:

re-polish both cylinder slot and stopper/sear
made a rear guide sleeve
polished guide rings

6 pulls and the cylinder slot is completely ruined again

Perhaps the Laylax trigger and piston simply isn't compatible with the Action Army cylinder.

 

[Blind Sniper]

Crossing part brands doesn’t always work. I know a lot of the process of elimination has been covered, but does it do the same thing when the rifle is in and out of the stock?

 

[LzChase]

Crossing part brands doesn’t always work. I know a lot of the process of elimination has been covered, but does it do the same thing when the rifle is in and out of the stock?

Yep.

I think It's time to save up and get an AA trigger instead.

 

[Blind Sniper]

If it were mine, and I wanted to save money, I’d shave the sides of the stopper down and then re polish. Sounds janky but it seems like you need the smallest amount of clearance. If the stopper is too wide for the cylinder slot, that is.

edit If you bite the bullet on a new trigger, I recommend a BullTrigg

 

[Masada]

It’s the materials of the spring guide stopper and cylinder not liking each other. Unfortunately getting this right is pretty hit and miss. Just from my own builds I know the AA cylinder is fine with a PDI or Angel Custom trigger/stopper, but not with a Springer trigger/stopper. But a Lambda cylinder works fine with the Springer trigger set.

 

[LzChase]

It’s the materials of the spring guide stopper and cylinder not liking each other. Unfortunately getting this right is pretty hit and miss. Just from my own builds I know the AA cylinder is fine with a PDI or Angel Custom trigger/stopper, but not with a Springer trigger/stopper. But a Lambda cylinder works fine with the Springer trigger set.

After trying @Blind Sniper 's suggestion without much success, and again running into my usual issue of parts being hard to find, I think my best bet would be making sure both the trigger and cylinder are AA brand, since I assume they wouldn't make parts that don't work with their own parts. Unofortunately I think it's time to retire the fluted cylinder despite it's little use, the cylinder slot is just.... completely fubar'd after all the failures to find a solution and the sear, which I believe was what actually scraping it due to being wider than the stopper, is not looking much better....

Whatever happened most likely had to do with both. 5 pulls were enough to scratch all 3 parts up really bad

 

[1tonne]

Maybe is it the sides of the trigger sear catching. File the side of that a little.

 

[LzChase]

Maybe is it the sides of the trigger sear catching. File the side of that a little.

This didn't work either

At this point I'm just gonna replace the trigger unit, since further experimenting will most likely break something instead

The theory about materials is probably true, I also did notice that the stopper is incredibly hard to file down, meaning the difference in metal hardness might be the issue

 

[SiliconeSword]

It’s the materials of the spring guide stopper and cylinder not liking each other. Unfortunately getting this right is pretty hit and miss. Just from my own builds I know the AA cylinder is fine with a PDI or Angel Custom trigger/stopper, but not with a Springer trigger/stopper. But a Lambda cylinder works fine with the Springer trigger set.

Yeah, Sodium's Laylax cylinder wasn't working well with the SCW trigger so I made him one out of heat treated O1 tool steel and it now works well with both the Laylax and an Action Army twisted cylinder.
Pretty weird, but I imagine that matching hardness and material would be best, but probably a material with anti galling properties.

 

[LzChase]

I've ordered an AA Trigger Unit along with new cylinder due to damage to fluted one, and a dedicated AA piston. I cannot find an AA spring guide or spring so AirsoftPro will have to do, I hope that works out. If the pull isn't better I'll eat me freakin' boonie hat

 

[Blind Sniper]

Good luck with your new parts! Keep us posted with results. The AirsoftPro guide should be fine, but I won’t put it passed you with your luck!! 😜 Potential issues with a non matching spring guide would be too big to fit a smaller spring or too long. If it’s too long the piston will bottom out on the spring guide before the piston can latch. When it happened to me when I mixed and matched parts; I just ground that bitch down.

 

[dastierjaeger]

Something I highly recommend to help with the bolt being as smooth and aligned as possible is Blind Snipers cylinder guide mod! this could help a good bit in making sure your cylinder is not rubbing against the sear or spring guide stopper.

He makes its very easy to follow and its extremely effective. Best of luck!

 

[Hamlet]

Well, I'm stuck. Is it time to give up? Things are working.... Decently, the only thing that I just cannot get right is the bolt. It both pulls and sounds like a rear bumper scraping the asphalt.

Bolt assembly:
Laylax PSS-10 Zero Trigger & Dedicated Piston
Action Army Fluted Cylinder
Action Army Guide Rings
AirsoftPro Spring Guide
Lubricated with ceramic grease.

What has been done:
Cylinder inside polish
Stopper polish
Cylinder Guide Sleeve
Cylinder slot polish

The problems get worse when I run an M140 spring.
The glide rings on the piston have deep scratches in direction with the pull all over them

The bolt behaves differently depending on how I grab the handle. Sometimes it's bad, sometimes very bad, sometimes it goes "tktktktk" and I can feel it rapidly bind and release. It is also very hard to push the last half inch despite the BB stoppers being on low setting. With the high cost of some airsoft parts in Europe, the build has cost over 1520 USD.

I'm slightly upset.

What a Nice way to spend 1520 USD on a malfunction vsr10 xd. Well... Have you tryed to use a trigger box from a friend?, Or another cylinder?, Piston?. You need to check which part it is causing the issues first