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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Some of you may have followed my TM VSR 10 project thread on some of the other boards, and others may have not. I have pretty much completed it and all that is left is posting some final pics with the new paint job and perhaps one last accuracy test. That and some fancy external upgrades such as a fluted barrel and flash hider.

In that thread, I discussed some problems I had with the rifle, and looked for advice on how to fix them. Some of them on my own were fixed, others were solved with helped from various members like you guys.

Some of the problems included:

1. BB's curving to the right slightly: A major problem that needed to be fixed. It drove me nuts for quite some time. It took about a month or two before figuring out the answer. So much for the TM chamber being amazing in stock form... ::)

Solution: Shaved hop up arm, and applied an o-ring over top for even pressure on bucking which applied the pressure on the bb.

Results: Worked like a charm!

2. Sticking: When chambering a round, the cylinder unit would get stuck in the "cocked" position. Sometimes it would result in a slam firing. This problem lasted about three times as long as the curving problem lasted. After trying nearly everything to try and fix this, it came down to one silly part.....

Solution: PDI spring guides do not work well with laylax parts including springs, pistons, etc! Although the PDI spring guide looks almost identical to the laylax spring guides, they are not the same...Turns out this spring guide was the problem. Replaced it with the stock spring guide, and boom! No more sticking....One reason why to stick with one brand of parts all the way through, however, it has been proven that the stock parts are friendly with the laylax parts and don't mind working together on a daily basis.

3. Mag catch spring lost: Lost my mag catch spring...

Solution: Cut a piece of spring from any pen and wola! You have yourself a cheap replacement. Does not need to be cut to exact size.

These are just some of the major problems I ran into, and for full information regarding this project, see this thread: http://www.c3airsoft.com/showthread.php/vsr-10-project-thread-25460.html

Now, onto what this thread is about. I have recently obtained a parts rifle and will be turning it into a functioning bolt action rifle, using the LEAST amount of money as possible.

While I have no set budget, I will be trying to build this rifle with the money tight consumer in mind. This means, I am not going for Z-trigs, PDI barrels, and Polar Star Pistons. No, that is not what this project is about.

That brings me to....

MY GOAL: To put together a parts (broken) rifle that literally costed me roughly $8 in items and shipping, and to turn it into a functioning bolt action rifle, and seeing how far one can go with DIY mods and only the parts necessary for proper function.

Can I get it on par with my own rifle which is almost entirely laylax, with the exception of a part or two including a DEEs custom barrel?

Stay tuned to find out! Pics and write ups to come!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
metallicafatcat said:
I thought the second issue was common knowledge and sense...
Dutton ran the rifle before me and must of had no problems. The thing that puzzled the situation was that the sticking occurred sometimes not until 300 shots later...Then all of a sudden, sticking, then another 200 clean shots...It made me think it was more than just the PDI spring guide, which at the time, thought nothing of, seeing as it was almost 100% identical to the laylax spring guide.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Well, been working on it for the past few days, sorry for the delay.

Anyways, here I go:

First off, the rifle feels like junk. This is my first JG bar 10, and I am fairly dissappointed with how it feels, but it is a clone so no worries...

1. Started off with a basic cleaning of the cylinder set:


Using...


This is the mess that was on the inside after cleaning out the gunk:


Also cleaned up the guide rings including the one seen here:

^Not sure if you can tell from the pic, but there are black chips that cover the ring. This makes bolt pull more rough and scratches the cylinder...

Teflon tape the cylinder head as well as a o-ring on the top for increased compression as well as on the spring guide for less noise produced;

^I like to apply a little grease under the tape on the threads as well as over the top for easy assembly and increase in compression to prevent leaks in the gaps (if any)



The only thing I like about the head on the JG that I do not like on the TM version is that there are two holes (instead of one) that can be used when removing it with a tool. Not a big deal, but definitely easier to work with.

2. The hop up: Fairly disappointed with this portion. The screws that hold the hop up together were most likely super glued as they won't come off! They are in there for good, and this pisses me off. I had to clean the inside with a cu-tip, and wish I could have gotten inside so I could clean the bucking with some soap and water...This part was sad...JG glued the hop up together..nice...

This was also sad:

^Outstanding effort by JG on this one.

Fixed it up with some of my own custom spacers, but for the first time ever, electric tape has failed me. I used a different type this time and look what happened below. Saggage!






3. Foam stock and rest of body: Found a cement block in the stock, who knows why that was there...Regardless, it is gone now:




Butt stock is filled with foam now, and is much lighter and feels more proportioned in terms of weight.

The one good thing about the JG model was the mag catch:

^Won't be coming out anytime soon, and am very happy with this portion. Much less flimsy than the TM version, but its not like the TM mag catch gives me big problems any more, so no harm no foul. ;)

Stay tuned for more pics within the hour, have a few more I need to upload.
 

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Instead of using those cylinder guide rings, try and find some o-rings that are just under sized of the cylinder. they will work great, and you don't have to worry about the o-ring falling out each time you take the outer barrel off the rifle ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
woogie said:
Instead of using those cylinder guide rings, try and find some o-rings that are just under sized of the cylinder. they will work great, and you don't have to worry about the o-ring falling out each time you take the outer barrel off the rifle ;)
Interesting, might have to give it a try!

Will it help with bolt pull in terms of smoothness?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
After some work on the trigger box, it seems that I need to buy a new one, as I am missing parts in the old box I had lying around, as well as pieces being broken. I am looking at the cheapest box, obviously nothing like my Z-trig, but again, this is a budget rifle thread. So here is what I will be getting shortly: http://www.evike.com/product_info.php?cPath=648_678&products_id=34005

Should be more than enough to handle a 375 fps set up. Better than stock box, but nothing that burns a hole in the wallet.

Project will be on hold until I get my hands on one of them. In the meantime, perhaps a paint job, but nothing else for now. Stay tuned though!
 
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