vsr hop mod

Re stud, see your PMs

Re your hop arm.... Dont use solid rubber.... far to much play and give.

What I did to mine.....

Extend the barrel window as far as the stock rubber will safely allow, both forward and towards the open end, making sure to maintain the support loop to hold the rubber in shape.

Increase the width of the window, so that the stock prongs actualy go into the window without fouling on the barrel.

Remove the nub from the rubber

Go to hobby-craft, or your prefered hobby store, and get some ever-green plastic card in various thicknesses.

Cut the plastic card to slightly smaller in length, about 1.5mm, but the same width as the barrel window. You'll need several 'patches' in different thickness' as the depth needs to be adjusted, but its better to get it so that only 2 maybe 3 patches are used in the finished article, you dont really need to remove the prongs from the arm if you haven't.

Lastly cut a small patch of ordinary AEG hop rubber the same size as your plastic card patches, place this between the card and your hop rubber. This takes into account any variation in bb size and helps to mould to the top of the bb to give it more grip. Don't worry about forming a curved profile, the length of nub will help to stabalise the shot, plus as you've discovered its an arse to get right :-/

Sadly the only real way to prevent right curve is to make/buy a 'over centre' adjuster

Using this system in my 350fps VSR I have the hop set to only just barely hold a bb in place and it will send a .2 north straight out the end of the barrel and a .28 flat and level for a good 80/90 metres ND its lazer beam straight.... every time!!

Sadly, yes, crap design/materials is the issue and yet noone seems willing to make a more solid replacement, probably due to the fact it'd be an arse to machine and to complicated to cast in metal :-/

I'd go TDC first, then do the long hop mod if your feeling confident, as the TDC will straighten out the shot, the long hop will add range and accuracy at range

I did mine using an M4 nut and bolt, a tension spring (to stop the bolt un-winding).

Measure the exact centre of the outter barrel, and the point that is over the centre of the hop window of the barrel. Make sure you do the measuring bit a good couple of times as accuracy hear is paramount ( I f**ked up my first attempt by hold ing the outer one way and the hop chamber I was using to find lengths from the other, only realising when it came to re-assembly

I then drilled and tapped for an M4 bolt, you must make sure you get this absalutely spot on upright or it makes the next part a bit of a ball ache and it looks horrible on the finished job though I dowt it affects the out-come to drasticaly so long as its not to far out, then take the bolt with the spring and nut assembled together and fit into the threaded hole, I then glued the nut into place to increase the effective length of the thread depth.

Re-assemble the hop/barrel and fit it in the outer after backing of the adjuster bolt until the hop chamber slides past easily.

Before re-fitting the bolt/reciever adjust the bolt to the point you can just see the hop rubber coming into the barrel opening, dont forget to push the bb holder up while you do this , enough to hold the bb with-out it falling right through. Mark the bolt head so you know where your start point is, re-assemble your gun and go try it out..... adjust bolt to suit your ammo..... job done