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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just had a question on installing the zero-trigger on a vsr-10 (there's going to be a lot of this while I familiarize myself, guys
). Anyway, the back screw plate (gold square thing...you know what I mean) has the hole for the screw positioned too far forward into the trigger mech for me to tighten the screw that holds the trigger in place.

I looked at how it all lines up and it appears that this is the only way to install it
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Doh! Thanks a ton man. :) I'm pulling all my chest muscles trying to do this and thinking "this can't be right..."

By the way, what do the ball bearings DO in the laylax spring guide? I lost one disassembling and honestly I don't think it matters, but I'm just curious. None of the other laylax guides have that feature.
 

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On the spring guide the bearingf at the end is technically called a Thrust bearing as it carries its load on its side as opposed to a roller bearing which carries its load on axis to itself. What it does within your gun is twist with the spring when you cock it, this inturn reduces the stress placed upon the spring, which the spring likes. The upshot of all this is that it help to maintain your fps consistency by allowing the spring to compress to the same tension everytime you cock it. If I was you I'd have another look to see if you can find it, its not stricktly essential, but a nice feature to have ;) If it helps, I havn't got 1 on mine yet, I've been pouring all my money into my SPR and EBR projects at the mo, and now I just picked up a SOC16 to rebuild ::), but I do plan on fitting 1, honestly! ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Ah that's interesting. I took a nice look, I was cleaning out all the gunk that came with the gun (got it used) and I'm pretty sure it went down my kitchen sink.

How do you think losing one would effect it? 5/6 are in place. In any case it's still durable so it's a minor loss. Not worth $40 for a new one, lol. Perhaps you can find bb's in that size (it looked about 1 mm diameter)?

As to the zero trigger...for now I'm unscrewing the side knobs on the plate and slotting it out of place to remove the trigger. Seems like a backwards way of doing it, but I don't mind the extra 30 secs. Although, I'm still interested if people have ideas.

Hey all, if any of you have a spare endcap key, or no longer use yours, could you send me a PM? My endcap is impossible to get off without the key, and I need to be able to take down the gun.
I could send you $5-10 via paypal and you could send it in an envelope...free is always good too, lol.

I managed to get the hop up/barrel assembly out but it wasn't a pleasant experience.
 

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It should be fine so long as the spacing between each ball is not to far apart. If the balls are in a cage, which they should be, smear a little silicon grease on them to lubricate them and help hold them in place for next time you have it apart.

To get your end cap off you could try putting 2 allen keys in the holes and holding them in an X shape then useing them as you would turn a T handle tool. You do have to make sure you cross them the right way so they lock together under torque, you'll know if you got it wrong as it will just fall apart on you. If your clever and careful you can get a little more turning pressure on them by holding them in a pair of grips/plyers ;) this can also work for taking the cylinder head off, infact its all I ever use and special keys etc take up valuable space in the tool box, I now have a special shortened allen key that is for this task
Improvise, Adapt, Overcome
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Sorry for the double post, it's been a few days and I don't want to start a new thread...but editing is too tricksy for people to realize it's been done.

Are laylax's sp150 and 170 springs 9mm inner diam or 7mm? And what is the diam of the laylax ball bearing spring guide? Just curious, as I'm not sure I got the advertised spring in my vsr-10.
Course, that's not an issue, springs are cheap.
 

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I'm pretty sure they are all the same for internal diameter. The extra power comes from increased length and wire thickness ( A 210 spring is only just long/short :-/ enough to be compressed within the cylinder, but a stock spring can take a fair sized guide spacer before it becomes spring bound). As for the spring guide I would assume it to be the same as stock, but then they say assumption is the mother of all fuck ups ;), I'm planning on taking my VSR apart to do some work on the cylinder and piston head tonight, I'll measure my stock 1 so you know what it should be to compare against :) but I'm fairy sure its about 8mm as I use a section of 10mm external size copper pipe as a spacer ;)
 
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