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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
VSR-10 Build on a Budget AirsoftPro parts

What is the right amount of money to spend to have a great bolt action rifle?
A rifle that lasts much and does not cause problems to each game?

Note that this is a personal Review/Build of a cheap VSR with AirsoftPro parts. My intention is to give tips to players that wanna build up a cheap but performing VSR.

Keeping in mind what are the cornerstones of this experiment, namely;

Accuracy: ability to hit targets at various distances.

Consistency: The ability to repeatedly hit the same target.

Noise: precondition for any sniper rifle in airsoft, due to insufficient engagement distances.

The handling: no one wants to carry around for more than a few hours a too long gun, heavy and awkward to point to the target.

I have tried in this Build on a Budget, whose goal is to replace ENTIRELY all internal parts that make up our gun, then trigger mechanism, air group, hop up unit and barrel.
In order to have a solid rifle, reliable and efficient.

The goal was to find (by purchasing new of course) the best aftermarket parts at the lowest possible price, in order to assemble a tool that would satisfy these requirements.
The value so the price had to be as high as possible to get the final "low cost" gun.

After making quite a few research on platforms, pieces of various brands and compatibility of the same, my choice for a base is oriented on Well MB03.
The platform that we all know, light, reliable and very easy to find many aftermarket parts. The metals are excellent, while the plastics turn out to be a bit "cheap".
Complete with the scope (economic one) at 80 €.

The dell'Mb03's cylinder has an inner diameter tighter than the Marui, and the length of the inner barrel (and consequently the external) that appears to be of 510mm, and not 430mm as in a VSR.
Factor that does not bother me because this build aims to replace all internal parts, but it is always good to be specified for users who may find here some more information!

For the selection of interior parts I was immediately struck by AirsoftPro components.
CNC machined parts are produced in the Czech Republic by the vendors themselves.
Online I didn't found a lot of informations on the pieces in question so I went a little blind (excuse the pun), but I hope that this guide will serve to other users to get a general idea on the quality of the parts in question.
I think later on I will make a full review.

AirsoftPro 90° Trigger ver 3.
As is known the trigger mechanism of VSR is poorly designed, it tends to deteriorate over time, the goal of this build is to build a lasting rifle, so I need to change it.
In the box there is also the piston with anti-vacuum head (very very important to have a perfect air seal and then a more ACCURATE rifle), spring guide with bearings 7mm (VSR) with adapter for spring 9mm (PDI type) and a M150 spring (which of course we will put aside).
All it purchased directly from ASP for the modest sum of 86 €.

AirsoftPro Black cylinder for VSR.
The normal cylinder of vsr is aluminum, and may present deformities on its length.
It is not a vital component to be replaced, but it is always better to purchase an AM cylinder for easy recharging, a perfect air seal and longer life, allowing all parts of the air group to work with the right tolerances between them .
Black, so that it is barely visible, and then it's cool...!
Purchased from ASP for 27 €.

AirsoftPro Hop Up unit.
Improved design of the famous hop up the group of double adjustment PDI, allows you to mount EVEN (I want to specify it because it is also possible to install a standard barrel for VSR) ASG barrels and buckings. In the box there are also the cylinder head made of steel and a ASG bucking, as well as pieces of o rings of different sizes
to use as nub.
It ensures a good seal between the cylinder head and barrel.
(Component not indispensable because the normal hop up chamber of VSR works very well with proper home made MODs).
Purchased on ASP for 36 €.

KM head 6.04x455 barrel (Ak-47).
AEG steel barrel, high-quality, the internal diameter does not bother me as it is commonly accepted that the quality of the bore is more important than its size.
I have chosen this length for a specific MOD I'm going to explain later.
Essential element for a sniper rifle, as ONLY an EXCELLENT quality barrel ensures accurate, consistent shots.
Purchased the modest price of 50€.

PDI M100 spring for VSR 9 / 13mm.
I was already in possession of this spring but logically I add it to the budget for the amount to which you would buy the new.
Why PDI? Because they are the best springs that is currently possible to purchase on the market, almost non-deformable and absolutely consistent shot after shot.
Price of the new 27€.

At a cost of 310 € (excluding shipping costs) We then bought ALL the necessary parts we need to assemble a bolt action durable, reliable and consistent, including rifle.
With the gun, having power of 1j (I live in Italy, but this is not a prerogative as the items I used are reliable up to M170 springs) will use Madbull shot from 0.3g.
In order to have a good precision, good accuracy maintaining an effective range to the role.

You do not just take aftermarket parts and assemble them to have a perfect gun.
And this is the crucial point of this build, the home made MODs.
The hand of an experienced mechanic is necessary to obtain the required performance.
And my advice is TRY, turn on your brain! And try to solve problems!
Insert and remove everything in order to understand how each part works, and how the parts work together. :shot:

The first MOD indispensable for each rifle is the creation of an air-brake (if the piston does not already have one). It preserves the integrity of the piston itself, makes the quieter gun and prevents the thread of the cylinder and the cylinder head will be damaged with time.
Many cut it to recover m / s, in my opinion it is a mistake.
ASP piston does not have a standard one, but with a little effort you can create one.
As one can see from the picture I removed the screw on the piston head, and screw in another longer than 2cm but starting from the bottom of the piston!
Locked in place with a nut, then I screwed over the protruding screw the stick of a lollipop, et voila, we have our airbrake.

The second MOD that allows to further silence the rifle involves placing a neopreme PAD (or similar material) to cushion the impact of the piston on the cylinder head.
I would reccomend a very elastic and rather rigid material (less than silicon) so that collision after collision will not deform it completely.
For information also 2/3 glued chair felt pads serve the purpose, and are therefore already round, so one less trouble!
I did not use glue, but to avoid damaging the cylinder head I used double-sided tape.

Talkin about the hop up unit, all I did was install both O ring provided within the unit, in order to have more pressure on the control levers.
(Large flaw of this design). I used the biggest nub available.
I then applied the teflon tape onto the bucking and the barrel to increase the improve the air seal.

I created 3 home made spacers for the barrel using electric tape, so as to stabilize it inside the outer barrel.
I do not think we need a photo for this MOD ... Just be careful to the tapered part and you're done.

Being the shortest inner barrel of 5cm than the outer barrel I thought well to create an internal micro silencer to the same outer barrel!
I have done nothing but put the FOAM in space was left between the inner barrel and muzzle cap.
And here's a nice micro silencer that will help our gun to be quieter.
The results have exceeded all expectations.

Reassembling the rifle I noticed that when I loaded the piston, remained a 2mm space around between the cylinder head and hop up unit (this due to the tolerances between the assembled parts),
then I filed about 2mm from the thread of the outer barrel to allow the two parts to be in contact during the arming cycle.
This has improved the air-seal. It's an old MOD which was often carried out some time ago, then fallen into disuse with the advent of better buckings.

The set pin (the one that holds it in place spring guide), when inserted literally disappears inside the trigger body.
In order to have a rapid extraction of the cylinder I then passed a thin iron wire inside the lateral hole of the set pin, to allow its quick release in case of need.

The base of the spring guide squeaked against the upper wall of the cylinder, and then armed with drill and 180 grid sandpaper I filed it of about 2mm.

To lubricate everything I used silicone spray oil.

The air seal is 100%, as well as that of the hop up unit.

By doing a quick test using 0.3g Madbull bbs I noticed a good consistency between shots. All shots were following the same trajectory.
Playing lightly with the over-hop I estimated (by known distances) an effective range of about 40m, a useful range of 50m, and a maximum (usable) range of about 60m. Over that the energy of the bb would be unnoticeable.
Who says that you must settle of a 30m range for a 1j rifle? :hehe:

(Sorry for language mistakes but english is not my mother tongue, I've done my best!):bow:

· Registered
604 Posts
This is nowhere near a "VSR-X."

A VSR-X is based around a one-piece receiver/outer barrel.

This is "how to soup up your Toyota Camry and try make it perform like a Ferrari 488."

It's not going to happen. The premise of the VSR-X is the removal of all slack within the system.

Why didn't you just add to 1tonne's Advanced VSR Guide? I found that to be an excellent read that is more comprehensive than your post.

Also, please lose the red font. It's painful to read.

Perhaps re-title your thread, "Building a good rifle on a budget"?

· Registered
66 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I was meaning vsr x (10 in roman numbers) I didn't know that that "vsr x" was used for a total custom design.

My intent was not to build a Toyota to perform as a Ferrari as u said.

Sorry for the red font, I was thinkin it might be easier to read.

The 1tonne's guide is really helpful and respectable, but my intent was to try to build a complete "cheap" rifle. Trying to review ASP parts cause i wasn't able to find a complete review of them.

I will repost this with adeguate corrections.
Thank you for your help!
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