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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a BAR-10 with a 150 spring installed (and the accompanying upgrades needed to handle the spring) but have been having issues with the bolt-pull and slam-firing. I have since fixed the slam-firing (the spring guide kept unscrewing from its base and once, one of the guide rings on the piston came loose, but they have been tightened down and secured with loctite). Now, my issue is the grinding and scraping accompanying my bolt-pull. Because of the several occasions where things had become unscrewed, my spring is now warped and bent in several places (no longer a straight cylinder, but rather a wavy one)--although, this warping had already started to a lesser degree before the slam-firing issues. I am fairly certain this warping is the cause of my bolt-pull problems and realize that I will most likely have to get a new spring, but I am posting here to find out how to prevent this from happening again with the new spring.

To boil down the previous paragraph into the key questions:

Is some level of warping to be expected in a spring?
If not, how can this warping be prevented?

Also, as seen in the first picture, the outside of the cylinder has just started scraping against the receiver and this has left a big scratch. What can be done to fix this?

Thanks in advance for any help you guys can provide,
curiousDC
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
When I checked the spring guide stopper I found that, when pushed all the way in, it sat properly in the cylinder, but it would tend pop back out just the tiniest bit, thereby misaligning the spring guide. So, thanks for the advice, that must be why the spring was warping, but what would be a good way to hold the spring guide stopper in place? Also, the outside of the cylinder is still starting to scrape when I pull the bolt back. Any ideas on how to fix that?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The guide itself doesn't pop out of the hole in the stopper, it just isn't in the exact center of the cylinder. I'll push the spring guide stopper all the way in and it will hold the spring guide in the correct position, but if I'm not holding the spring guide stopper in place, it will drop down just a little and it no longer holds the spring guide in its optimal position.
 

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By that first picture you have a really bad burr on the top of your receiver which probably isn't helping much. stick your finger in the receiver and feel around for any bumps pointing in. If you find any I would suggest you sand them down a bit.

What brand spring and spring guide is it?
 

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You might have to file down the stopper so the guide falls into the hole in the stopper, if the guide needs to go deeper into the cylinder. That hole should hold the base of the stopper in the center, and from what your saying it isn't.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
@goldentrigun:
There were some bumps and I have since sanded them down and there is no more scraping, so thanks for the advice. The spring and spring guide are both Angel Custom (which can be found on evike).

@rab1515:
The guide falls into the hole in the stopper just fine. It's just that the stopper won't stay all the way pushed in.

I put all the stock cylinder components back in (spring, spring guide, and piston) and tested it and, while there is no scraping or any other roughness to the pull, the piston sear is having trouble catching and when I pull the trigger it doesn't fire--I have to give the gun a little tap and then it shoots. Also, looking at the piston sear, it is showing signs of wear. So, with that and the spring guide stopper problems, I think the problem--or at least most of it--lies with the trigger.

I will definitely be getting a new spring, but I don't really have the money for a new trigger. For a while, I have been planning on making a new trigger--or, more precisely, replicating Noobie's M-trigger since he seems to have disappeared--so I think I will start that sometime soon, since the raw materials needed are far cheaper than something like a zero-trigger.

But anyways, thanks guys for all your help.
 

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I haven't heard any good things about the angel custom springs, however I see no problems with the spring guide given if everything is the right dimension and the center rod doesn't unscrew with some lock-tite.
The spring may just be giving uneven pressure which doesn't allow the spring guide to sit evenly.

I assume you're using a stock trigger with upgraded sears?
 

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I haven't heard any good things about the angel custom springs, however I see no problems with the spring guide given if everything is the right dimension and the center rod doesn't unscrew with some lock-tite.
The spring may just be giving uneven pressure which doesn't allow the spring guide to sit evenly.

I assume you're using a stock trigger with upgraded sears?
The angel custom springs aren't as bad as they are made out to be. I have a angel custom m190 and have put about 500 rounds through it and it still shoots at a nice 620 FPS measured with a DIY chronograph, although the first 15-20 shoot WAY hot. Like 800+ fps hot. Yes the spring compressed a lot (like three inches) to the point where it is neutral when un-cocked, but that makes the cylinder head go on easy, and the spring won't degrade just sitting.
 

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Agreed. My point about the spring was that after it broke in, it was consistent. It compressed only during the break in period. If you can find the spring you want in laylax, it is a better spring. My point was that angel custom isn't a bad choice.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I haven't heard any good things about the angel custom springs, however I see no problems with the spring guide given if everything is the right dimension and the center rod doesn't unscrew with some lock-tite.
The spring may just be giving uneven pressure which doesn't allow the spring guide to sit evenly.

I assume you're using a stock trigger with upgraded sears?
Yes, I am using the stock trigger with upgraded sears.

So, I guess I'll go with laylax for a new spring, but do you guys know of any spring guides that don't screw off at all (preferably with bearings)?
 
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