[curiousDC]

I have a BAR-10 with a 150 spring installed (and the accompanying upgrades needed to handle the spring) but have been having issues with the bolt-pull and slam-firing. I have since fixed the slam-firing (the spring guide kept unscrewing from its base and once, one of the guide rings on the piston came loose, but they have been tightened down and secured with loctite). Now, my issue is the grinding and scraping accompanying my bolt-pull. Because of the several occasions where things had become unscrewed, my spring is now warped and bent in several places (no longer a straight cylinder, but rather a wavy one)--although, this warping had already started to a lesser degree before the slam-firing issues. I am fairly certain this warping is the cause of my bolt-pull problems and realize that I will most likely have to get a new spring, but I am posting here to find out how to prevent this from happening again with the new spring.

To boil down the previous paragraph into the key questions:

Is some level of warping to be expected in a spring?
If not, how can this warping be prevented?

Also, as seen in the first picture, the outside of the cylinder has just started scraping against the receiver and this has left a big scratch. What can be done to fix this?

Thanks in advance for any help you guys can provide,
curiousDC

 

[curiousDC]

When I checked the spring guide stopper I found that, when pushed all the way in, it sat properly in the cylinder, but it would tend pop back out just the tiniest bit, thereby misaligning the spring guide. So, thanks for the advice, that must be why the spring was warping, but what would be a good way to hold the spring guide stopper in place? Also, the outside of the cylinder is still starting to scrape when I pull the bolt back. Any ideas on how to fix that?

 

[curiousDC]

The guide itself doesn't pop out of the hole in the stopper, it just isn't in the exact center of the cylinder. I'll push the spring guide stopper all the way in and it will hold the spring guide in the correct position, but if I'm not holding the spring guide stopper in place, it will drop down just a little and it no longer holds the spring guide in its optimal position.

 

[curiousDC]

@goldentrigun:
There were some bumps and I have since sanded them down and there is no more scraping, so thanks for the advice. The spring and spring guide are both Angel Custom (which can be found on evike).

@rab1515:
The guide falls into the hole in the stopper just fine. It's just that the stopper won't stay all the way pushed in.

I put all the stock cylinder components back in (spring, spring guide, and piston) and tested it and, while there is no scraping or any other roughness to the pull, the piston sear is having trouble catching and when I pull the trigger it doesn't fire--I have to give the gun a little tap and then it shoots. Also, looking at the piston sear, it is showing signs of wear. So, with that and the spring guide stopper problems, I think the problem--or at least most of it--lies with the trigger.

I will definitely be getting a new spring, but I don't really have the money for a new trigger. For a while, I have been planning on making a new trigger--or, more precisely, replicating Noobie's M-trigger since he seems to have disappeared--so I think I will start that sometime soon, since the raw materials needed are far cheaper than something like a zero-trigger.

But anyways, thanks guys for all your help.

 

[curiousDC]

I haven't heard any good things about the angel custom springs, however I see no problems with the spring guide given if everything is the right dimension and the center rod doesn't unscrew with some lock-tite.
The spring may just be giving uneven pressure which doesn't allow the spring guide to sit evenly.

I assume you're using a stock trigger with upgraded sears?

Yes, I am using the stock trigger with upgraded sears.

So, I guess I'll go with laylax for a new spring, but do you guys know of any spring guides that don't screw off at all (preferably with bearings)?