[flippin]

I want to turn the WE m14 GBB into a DMR, but I don't want the inconsistency of a gas rifle. I immediately thought of learning to drill and tap a magazine and using HPA, but I don't know if the stock nozzle can support FPS of 500+ (field regulations are 440FPS w/ .36). I see that Evike sells a nozzle for 500 FPS, and was wondering if that was necessary to buy in order for the gun to handle the FPS output of using an HPA.
With all of that said, I would also buy the RA-tech 6.01 barrel and hop-up

 

[wack2011a]

HPA rigs cost anywhere from $120 for c02 / maybe a second hand rig to $250+ if you spent the money right.

Cheap 48/3000 Tank $40
Hosing $10
Regulator (>250) $40 - 120 /or/ SLP regulator + >250PSI Tank regulator ~$220
QD Fittings $25

If anyone has any more precise price ranges please post but just from looking around and slight general knowledge those would be my estimates.

Something I'm curious about is the de-pressurizing the hose between switching magazines if a valve shutter exists you could plug in before the QD into the magazine so that you don't have to de-pressurize between magazines.

With that being said there will still be air in the magazine so you'd have to empty it out of air before you can move onto the next magazine unless you can handle the big bang it makes when you unplug a pressurized QD hose.

Green gases pressure is roughly 120PSI. I hit 670FPS with .2gram BBs (roughly 590/600FPS with .36) in my Tanaka with my HPA set to 120PSI. I would assume your nozzle should be fine as it currently handles 120PSI green gas.

Check these out for more information on other WE M14 threads regarding HPA, there's also some good HPA information:
http://www.airsoftforum.com/board/lofiversion/index.php/t213611.html

http://www.airsoftforum.com/board/lofiversion/index.php/t213069.html

Hope that helps!

 

[wesley810]

You will need the RA-Tech Steel Trigger Box eventually. I've heard that it splits over time.

 

[flippin]

Thanks for the links! Those are showing me some possible problems with gaining FPS without just increasing the ROF. I'll have to either look around for solutions to the ROF problem or find a non-blowblack alternative. Maybe a KJW or a second hand Tanaka. And hey, it'd probably end up costing less!
If you have a forum about your KJW, could you give me a link to it?

 

[wesley810]

You started one not too long ago and I posted a ton into it. What happened to that thread?

EDIT: Here it is

http://www.airsoftsniperforum.com/phpBB/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=3148

 

[flippin]

You started one not too long ago and I posted a ton into it. What happened to that thread?

EDIT: Here it is

http://www.airsoftsniperforum.com/phpBB/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=3148

I feel so damn stupid.

 

[wesley810]

Haha, it's alright. I was actually following that thread a while back trying to give some insight, but the postings just stopped. I figured you just abandoned the project. There is some good info in there though.

Also, I don't know if you own any M16 variants or not, but if you do, I would recommend the PolarStar Fusion Engine if you wanna do something HPA. Those cost around the same price of the M14 and you are almost guaranteed great performance.

 

[flippin]

I have an old broken up CA Sportline M4, but that thing has been nothing but trouble. I could always get myself a nice G&P or VFC and later on, when more money comes in, I can get the Fusion and turn it into a DMR.

Looking on evike for all things related to the Fusions Engine, I see that the hose and regs package is 220$. Is that the only thing you can use for it, or are they just fishing for more money. Anyway, that GB would be a lot better if I decided to go "AEG" instead of gas or bolt. There wouldn't be the hassle of having to upgrade EVERYTHING inside the GB.

EDIT: Come to think of it, my friend has an Echo1 M4 that he is trying to sell. I could probably pick that up and turn it into something. (Maybe)

 

[Cheese Man]

The hose and regs can be had for cheaper, but not by much if you want a high-quality setup. I would recommend an austinwolv reg set, and buy the FE from airsoftfix. In the future (1-2 months is the quote that I got), as far as I know, they will be carrying regs, HPA bottles, etc. too.

 

[wesley810]

Plus, once you get a nice reg, you can use it for any gas rifle. The start-up cost for the P* set-up is a lot if you don't already own an air rig, tanks, and a nice body to put it in, but from what I hear it is totally worth it. I'm planning on picking one up within the next year or so.

 

[flippin]

P* Sounds like it would be a year long project for me, money wise. I've got $590 of saved airsoft money, Seems like 85% of that would go to P*s engine.

Trying to get back on topic here, but does anyone know of a solution to the GBBR HPA issue stated above? Where increasing PSI would only increase the ROF/bolt cycle rate, and not the actual FPS. This could put a damper on my M14 GBB thoughts.

 

[mateba]

Higher springs and PSI tend to increase ROF. I would not really worry about it much if you are going to leave it in SEMI. Which was assumed if you are looking for a semi-auto sniper. I would also look for a way around just tapping the mags. They are expensive and do not offer a lot in ammo capacity. Either modding a stock mag to take stripper clips or re-routing the gas system so you can reload without having to swap your air rig to the next mag be a big difference.

If you need velocity after installing a 6.01, which is highly unlikely, I would suggest a high flow valve. I would say .4 would be a given at that velocity and potential volume of fire. I don't think you will need more than 130PSI which is well within the pressure ranges of propane. Just do some testing you should be able to match the velocity of propane to get you PSI. Still I don't think velocity will be any issue with a 6.01 and heavy BBs.

Good Luck

 

[flippin]

I'm not talking about the ROF of fully automatic fire, but the cycle rate of the bolt, if that makes sense. It says that turning up the PSI will only speed up bolt cycle rate and not FPS.
For tapping the mags, I would end up only having one mag and just keep refilling it with a speed loader.
I would already be buying a 6.01 barrel, and hopefully that gives me the desired FPS, but if not I could just up the PSI of the rig.

 

[wesley810]

I'm not talking about the ROF of fully automatic fire, but the cycle rate of the bolt, if that makes sense. It says that turning up the PSI will only speed up bolt cycle rate and not FPS.
For tapping the mags, I would end up only having one mag and just keep refilling it with a speed loader.
I would already be buying a 6.01 barrel, and hopefully that gives me the desired FPS, but if not I could just up the PSI of the rig.

What about the NPAS System? You could possibly get one of those and open that sucker all the way up and have a crazy FPS. I've heard of some pretty high FPS from doing that and running propane on a hot summer day (high reg PSI).

 

[flippin]

Do they have NPAS for the M14 yet? I think the only ones I saw on evike were for scar/39
Could you still use HPA for NPAS?

 

[wesley810]

I'm not sure. I would think they would because I've seen it for every other rifle they have; maybe not though. Best bet would be on an overseas website probably.

EDIT: Quick google search turned up this:

http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/ra-tech-n-p-a-s-kit-for-we-open-bolt-system-pdw-m14.html

I'm not sure how much it would help, but I also saw RA-Tech's website having one. It may just be a replacement for a stock part considering how cheap it is. I'm really not too familiar with WE's systems, but the NPAS's I've seen on Evike have all looked different than this.

 

[mateba]

No point, just open up the ID of the internals with a drill press and/or dremel.

 

[wesley810]

Sounds like it would work, but I wouldn't know, as I don't own any WE GBB rifles so I'm not familiar with how they work.

You might want to look-up which parts have broken on other owner's rifles over time so you will be prepared when they do go out. The only thing I've ever heard on them going out is the trigger mech, but I haven't looked into it too much (thought of doing this project myself a while back but abandoned the idea).

 

[flippin]

No point, just open up the ID of the internals with a drill press and/or dremel.

Open up the ID? I'm not really up to date with the lingo.

 

[wesley810]

ID=Inner Diameter