WE M14 HPA rig?

Thanks for the links! Those are showing me some possible problems with gaining FPS without just increasing the ROF. I'll have to either look around for solutions to the ROF problem or find a non-blowblack alternative. Maybe a KJW or a second hand Tanaka. And hey, it'd probably end up costing less!
If you have a forum about your KJW, could you give me a link to it?

I have an old broken up CA Sportline M4, but that thing has been nothing but trouble. I could always get myself a nice G&P or VFC and later on, when more money comes in, I can get the Fusion and turn it into a DMR.

Looking on evike for all things related to the Fusions Engine, I see that the hose and regs package is 220$. Is that the only thing you can use for it, or are they just fishing for more money. Anyway, that GB would be a lot better if I decided to go "AEG" instead of gas or bolt. There wouldn't be the hassle of having to upgrade EVERYTHING inside the GB.

EDIT: Come to think of it, my friend has an Echo1 M4 that he is trying to sell. I could probably pick that up and turn it into something. (Maybe)

P* Sounds like it would be a year long project for me, money wise. I've got $590 of saved airsoft money, Seems like 85% of that would go to P*s engine.

Trying to get back on topic here, but does anyone know of a solution to the GBBR HPA issue stated above? Where increasing PSI would only increase the ROF/bolt cycle rate, and not the actual FPS. This could put a damper on my M14 GBB thoughts.

I'm not talking about the ROF of fully automatic fire, but the cycle rate of the bolt, if that makes sense. It says that turning up the PSI will only speed up bolt cycle rate and not FPS.
For tapping the mags, I would end up only having one mag and just keep refilling it with a speed loader.
I would already be buying a 6.01 barrel, and hopefully that gives me the desired FPS, but if not I could just up the PSI of the rig.

Do they have NPAS for the M14 yet? I think the only ones I saw on evike were for scar/39
Could you still use HPA for NPAS?

mateba said:

No point, just open up the ID of the internals with a drill press and/or dremel.

Click to expand...

Open up the ID? I'm not really up to date with the lingo.

Oh, are you saying that I should widen the valve or something? Or am I just being a complete dum-bass

Sounds like that would be it, because if it is wider more gas will go through the valve. But won't pressure be decreased? Its probably negligible, but would it affect anything?

I might consider buying from you, although I have never boughten anything from anyone on any forum, I may make an exception.

Thanks, now I just got to get the OK from my parental units. Saved up my own money, so what could go wrong?