[Whiskey Whiskey]

Sorry, don't want to argue with physics, but in my experience, my Ares Striker, which throws about 480 FPS with 20's, and ~ 2.2\2.3 Joules with 30's, is definitely easier to pull than my CYMA Matrix SVD with straight pull throwing around the same FPS and Joules. Can't argue with experience.

 

[Doctor Jest]

Anecdotal evidence and confirmation bias are funny things indeed

 

[Whiskey Whiskey]

Yes, for sure my friend, but as the old saying goes "knowledge without experience is just theory".

 

[SiliconeSword]

Well maybe you got the one Striker that doesn't have the awful heavy pull everybody else complains about, but if that's the case then you're the one exception. I have no clue about the SVD you are talking about, but if those are the only two spring snipers you have used, then maybe the SVD just really sucks, and as a baseline it makes the Striker look good.

Cylinder size and all is not worth arguing about as the rest of us know that a shorter and fatter cylinder will be less efficient by far compared to most everything else out there.

As for @teaguem , I'd say that the Mancraft SDiK with the correct trigger sear angle for your gun would be your best bet as you said you already own everything, so for $175 you could have what you are after, which is by far the cheapest option so far, and not to mention likely the best.

 

[RonSwanson]

Sorry, don't want to argue with physics, but in my experience, my Ares Striker, which throws about 480 FPS with 20's, and ~ 2.2\2.3 Joules with 30's, is definitely easier to pull than my CYMA Matrix SVD with straight pull throwing around the same FPS and Joules. Can't argue with experience.

And what about compared to the echo 1 ASR?

Bolt action svds are known for having a dodgy straight pull I thought, by the very nature of its design you can't get a centered straight bolt pull and are always forcing the cylinder against the left side causing friction.

 

[Doctor Jest]

And what about compared to the echo 1 ASR?

Bolt action svds are known for having a dodgy straight pull I thought, by the very nature of its design you can't get a centered straight bolt pull and are always forcing the cylinder against the left side causing friction.

That has been my experience, but no, Striker am best airsoft.

;-)

(tongue in cheek)

 

[Whiskey Whiskey]

@SiliconeSword - I own 4 springs of a variety of styles and manufacturers, sorry but the Striker is the best pull of all, easily. Also, the SVD doesn't suck, I love it!

 

[SiliconeSword]

Alright man, if it works for you then I'd say keep running with it, but your experience definitely seems to be the exception.

 

[Doctor Jest]

Back to the matter at hand, SS have you tried the Mancraft at all?

 

[SiliconeSword]

I tried one at a field once, and it seemed good. I also know like 2 people that have owned them, albeit both in Ares Strikers, not VSRs. General consensus on them seems to be that they're pretty good, and probably better than the BOLT M. I still favor the BOLT, but that's double the cost of the SDiK and requires a battery and charger for that battery which is another cost if you don't have that stuff.

I don't think there's too much else to say here really.

 

[TenshouYoku]

A Striker with an M150 spring doesn't inherently need more force to draw than a VSR with M150. It's just that the initial power needed to pull a Striker's bolt is definitely much more notable than the VSR owning it needed to be armed in a shorter bolt travel distance, which is why people often argue (correctly) that a Striker is harder to pull than a VSR.

As a person who owned AS01s and AS02 with NEMO kit before and a huge bunch of other rifles, and judging from the fact that others who borrowed my Striker definitely found the rifle difficult to rack, I can confidently say even with high volume cylinders Strikers, even with the correct method of bolt pulling and not that it's impossible to pull, on average are just quite a bit harder to rack than a VSR/SRS of comparable joule count.

I'd wager that SVD is just a beech and half by itself (with the possible cause being the piston or bolt grinding against the receiver significantly more than a rifle with a mock bolt).

 

[Whiskey Whiskey]

I'd wager that SVD is just a beech and half by itself (with the possible cause being the piston or bolt grinding against the receiver significantly more than a rifle with a mock bolt).

Hey Bro, the SVD is my baby! I mean she's a hideously deformed, snarly, sinks her teeth in when she bites baby, but still my baby, not a "beech" (which is what???). Anyway, she may have issues in the piston or bolt grinding area, but how could I check\correct that?

 

[TenshouYoku]

Hey Bro, the SVD is my baby! I mean she's a hideously deformed, snarly, sinks her teeth in when she bites baby, but still my baby, not a "beech" (which is what???). Anyway, she may have issues in the piston or bolt grinding area, but how could I check\correct that?

Beech, a substitution for the word beginning with B, and ending in itch

I think the issue is most likely the same as what happens if you rack your bolt action rifle by the bolt instead of having your thumb resting onto the end cap of the bolt - the bolt would as a result be off centred (since the bolt would then be pressed towards the receiver instead of being pulled completely straight) and then grind against the receiver body

 

[RonSwanson]

Hey Bro, the SVD is my baby! I mean she's a hideously deformed, snarly, sinks her teeth in when she bites baby, but still my baby, not a "beech" (which is what???). Anyway, she may have issues in the piston or bolt grinding area, but how could I check\correct that?

To check disassemble and look for excess wear or scratch marks on the left hand side of the cylinder and body/whatever is holding the cylinder in place.

In an ideal world minor surface scratches are all that would be present and they would be even all around, more wear on one side means it's grinding/uneven.

 

[Whiskey Whiskey]

To check disassemble and look for excess wear or scratch marks on the left hand side of the cylinder and body/whatever is holding the cylinder in place.

In an ideal world minor surface scratches are all that would be present and they would be even all around, more wear on one side means it's grinding/uneven.

Good advice my friend, Thanks! What causes that kind of issue and can it be corrected?

 

[SiliconeSword]

Pretty much just any metal on metal contact, or metal on sand/dirt contact will do that to you.

The main things you could do are clean and grease everything, but I'd more steer towards adding a plastic sleeve between the cylinder and whatever is touching it.

 

[Whiskey Whiskey]

Pretty much just any metal on metal contact, or metal on sand/dirt contact will do that to you.

The main things you could do are clean and grease everything, but I'd more steer towards adding a plastic sleeve between the cylinder and whatever is touching it.

So grease and plastic sleeve? I guess the plastic gives a little and so cuts down on metal to metal friction. What grease would you recommend?

 

[RonSwanson]

Good advice my friend, Thanks! What causes that kind of issue and can it be corrected?

The issue is that guide rings are never perfect and the way bolts work is that the pull is never perfectly straight.

In an ideal world the bolt pull would stay oriented like this: |

Because of the way we pull bolts from the rear and they need a bit of force due to the spring they are often at an angle like this: /

The issue is that unless you can put your hand behind the bolt to stabilise you will always be trying to pull it from off centre (imagine the bolt is essentially an L shape and we are pulling from the bottom right) it's not ideal.

Placing a thumb on the back of a bolt often helps centre and keep the bolt pull smoother and less likely to grind.

Due to the design of the SVD straight pull unless you could perfectly manufacturer glide rings with 0% space against the cylinder than it will always be warped during the bolt cycle causing friction.

 

[SiliconeSword]

Really any old grease would be fine, but a molybdenum grease would be good.

I'd steer you towards the plastic as that is by far the better option, Just use a piece of soda bottle or notebook cover.

 

[Whiskey Whiskey]

The issue is that guide rings are never perfect and the way bolts work is that the pull is never perfectly straight.

In an ideal world the bolt pull would stay oriented like this: |

Because of the way we pull bolts from the rear and they need a bit of force due to the spring they are often at an angle like this: /

The issue is that unless you can put your hand behind the bolt to stabilise you will always be trying to pull it from off centre (imagine the bolt is essentially an L shape and we are pulling from the bottom right) it's not ideal.

Placing a thumb on the back of a bolt often helps centre and keep the bolt pull smoother and less likely to grind.

Due to the design of the SVD straight pull unless you could perfectly manufacturer glide rings with 0% space against the cylinder than it will always be warped during the bolt cycle causing friction.

Yep, makes sense, great explanation Bro!