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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Greetings:
Have'nt seen any forums about this rifle and would like to discuss a few notes on what i found last night while experimenting with the internals.
I have a UTG MK96 pretty beefed up and it is awesome but my shoulder is always bruised whenever i play since it has a 190 spring in it. So i saw this wellfire with an accurate magazine position and decided to get one instead of waiting to save up for the Marui. First off the internals are not complicated once you memorize the mechanical motions of all the pieces you have to unscrew to get to the cylinder, etc.
Notes:
1) the wellfire cylinder is much shorter than the UTG
2) the Tokyo Marui aftermarket (laylax) piston is NOT compatible, it will not engage the trigger.
3) the aftermarket cylinder head (laylax) IS compatible
4) Laylax PSS2 springs are NOT compatible due to length
5) the inner barrel is much shorte in the wellfire as compared to the 500 mm UTG
6) The range is much shorter with .36g madbulls as compared to my UTG (obviously) but the hop up at max does not offer much help. It actually doesn't float (lobe, spin it or however you want to call it) it at all, it just shoots it quite straight and drops. This is good but doesn't let the rifle deliver over the norm.

This is all i have been able to experiment as of yet since I was planning on exchanging teh internals of my UTG to the Wellfire. Didn't swap my zero trigger since the stock spring is still in the wellfire and the trigger is made of metal and looks and feels sturdy.

For some reason when i pull the bolt back and engage the cylinder pushing it forward is a challenge itself. Feels like it rubbing somewhere but can't figure out where. Sometimes i have to bang it forward so it moves. Any help on this would be deeply appreciated.

I encourage everyone to share any input on this rifle that you may have and any results you may have.
I specially would like some recommendations to increase range and accuracy. (hops, ER-hop installations, modifications etc). FPS is considered last since you can always increase it with a stronger spring, but accuracy, range and stealth are the priorities for a build in this rifle. thanks for your attention.
 

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I'm new here too, but please make an introduction post.

And I believe this belongs in the "other" section in the rifles area.
 

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I have owned a few Well L96's now including the Maruzen copy and the Tokyo Marui Copy. I found that the old Maruzen version that has the mag in the wrong place is the better gun. It is easier and cheaper to upgrade. The TM version is a pain to pull apart. Also the cylinder is smaller which can make it harder to get high FPS.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I see nobody is posting anything on this thread so my guess is nobody in this forum has bought this. Anyways 1tonne i have an upgraded UTG that has an incredible accuracy with the stock hopup, quite amazed at this fact so that i have never replaced it. Using a 190 spring it gives me 465 fps with madbulls green 0.36g.

So yes, the upgraded UTG is superior but i want to upgrade this wellfire enough to substitute it for my UTG someday. Hopefully when I receive my recently ordered ER-hop I can start upgrading this wellfire L96 and give my shoulder a rest from the 190 spring.

What do you guys think? Can the wellfire L96 become superior to an Upgraded UTG with a friendlier spring than a 190?

Also anyone with upgrades performed on this rifle, It would be apreciated any info that you may have.
 

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I bought this rifle quite some time ago, so here's my two cents.

I have a Laylax Zero Trig w/piston, a trimmed Laylax spring (putting it about 520fps, can't remember what spring exactly.. 170 IIRC), a few diy hopup mods and a urethane rubber full length barrel spacer. I'm hitting a 1' wide tree at 250' every time.

I did have problems with the piston not locking back, but it was due to a too long spring guide. Lathed one from some aluminum scrap and it's working just fine now. I then made a new eraser nub, flat hopped the bucking, and made the barrel spacer. I love it, and with a little work it can perform amazingly.

As far as the stiff bolt push forward, the problem is the barrel locking ring. I took mine off and polished the inside and it made the bolt cycle much smoother. Also if you tighten the center receiver bolt too tight it can cause a stiff bolt cycle.
 
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I see nobody is posting anything on this thread so my guess is nobody in this forum has bought this. Anyways 1tonne i have an upgraded UTG that has an incredible accuracy with the stock hopup, quite amazed at this fact so that i have never replaced it. Using a 190 spring it gives me 465 fps with madbulls green 0.36g.

So yes, the upgraded UTG is superior but i want to upgrade this wellfire enough to substitute it for my UTG someday. Hopefully when I receive my recently ordered ER-hop I can start upgrading this wellfire L96 and give my shoulder a rest from the 190 spring.

What do you guys think? Can the wellfire L96 become superior to an Upgraded UTG with a friendlier spring than a 190?

Also anyone with upgrades performed on this rifle, It would be apreciated any info that you may have.
If your UTG is firing at 465fps on 0.36gm then if it was chronoed using 0.2gm it would be 600-620fps. It is achievable with a WELL (Maruzen Version) but you would need to use a M190. So the bolt pull would still be hard.
I have a M170 in my L96 and it is firing about 500fps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
@1tonne = the fps for .20g was chronoed with my "el cheapo" chronograph at 547 fps as you can see in the picture, I measure them with my hop ON as i use it to get a true reading. the second picture shows the Joule power. With the third reading is with .36g and it shows at 426 fps. Can't remember but i believe this is with a 190sp spring.

@JcCustoms = you just gave me inspiration to work on this rifle, i though no one had bought this because it was worthless an nobody replied because of this replied. I tried using the LAYLAX piston for the MARUI L96, 9mm spring guide and a 210sp spring I had and it would not lock it back. I cut the spring with a dremel and it still would not engage to lock back the piston. I may try cutting down the guide to test it because I did it at night and most likely failed to notice the guide being too long.
Did notice the length of the piston being longer in the stock piston vs the LAYLAX, wouldn't this affect also? What really frustrated me was i ruined the 210sp by cutting it and its hard to come by.
Where is this barrel locking ring? I remember turning the barrel and aligning it but not a ring in there. Pics would be helpful but probably remember it if you describe it. A dissasembly guide sounds good at this stage. I'll also give the center receiver bolt a check just in case.

I encourage people to keep posting the successes and failures for this wellfire L96 project.
 

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@1tonne = the fps for .20g was chronoed with my "el cheapo" chronograph at 547 fps as you can see in the picture, I measure them with my hop ON as i use it to get a true reading. the second picture shows the Joule power. With the third reading is with .36g and it shows at 426 fps. Can't remember but i believe this is with a 190sp spring.
That sounds about right. I know that 550fps is achievable with an M170 spring if you have everything perfect and you chrono it with hopup on for heavy bb's. (With L96's and VSR10 they should always be chronoed with hopup on as this will get the top FPS. These guns fire hotter with more hopup unlike AEG's which the more hopup the less the FPS)

My L96 has an old M170 spring (So it is worn) and it also probably needs a little grease on the piston O-ring as I have not used it for a while but when new it was firing hotter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
One thing is true about the well fire, it is freaking quiet. The airseal is excellent hope the er-hop works out for this rifle. Wish there where appropriate directions on how much to cut the hop window, thisu its the only worry on my mind right know.
 

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@JcCustoms = you just gave me inspiration to work on this rifle, i though no one had bought this because it was worthless an nobody replied because of this replied. I tried using the LAYLAX piston for the MARUI L96, 9mm spring guide and a 210sp spring I had and it would not lock it back. I cut the spring with a dremel and it still would not engage to lock back the piston. I may try cutting down the guide to test it because I did it at night and most likely failed to notice the guide being too long.
Did notice the length of the piston being longer in the stock piston vs the LAYLAX, wouldn't this affect also? What really frustrated me was i ruined the 210sp by cutting it and its hard to come by.
Where is this barrel locking ring? I remember turning the barrel and aligning it but not a ring in there. Pics would be helpful but probably remember it if you describe it. A dissasembly guide sounds good at this stage. I'll also give the center receiver bolt a check just in case.
Hey, no problem. I fell in love with the Marui and then kind of fell out of airsoft for a bit, and once I got back into it, I found the clone and with a much nicer pricetag I figured I'd give it a shot seeing as how there were little to no reviews... In fact, there still aren't, lol.

As far as the piston situation goes, if you look at the stock piston with the spring inside, you can see kind of through the plastic and see that the end of the spring is very close to the piston head. On the Laylax, there is a bit of metal (about 1/2" or so IIRC) between them, so the spring does indeed have less room to compress which causes it to not return far enough to lock on the sear.

To fix this, I kept slowly trimming the 170 until it finally... FINALLY clicked into position. It worked perfectly for a while, but when I took it down after a few thousand shots, the spring had compressed too far, allowing the spring guide lock to fall loose. I, for the time being have just taped the lock up and it functions fine. I wish someone would make a higher FPS spring specifically for this rifle, as I know the wire diameter must be smaller to allow more coils to fit.

The barrel locking ring is in between the hopup and the cylinder/nozzle end when you unscrew it. Sometimes... Well most of the time it stays with the barrel when you separate the two. It's also the part that you screw those two tiny screws into on either side of the "loading fin" or whatever it's called, lol. The part also kind of looks like the Ohm symbol.

Edit: This piece: http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/laylax-pssl96-barrel-inner-ring-for-marui-l96-sniper.html
 

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I was thinking about getting a Well L96 bolt action sniper rifle that cost around $100.00. I'm pretty excited about getting it but i'm just not sure. Any opinions????
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
It is a very nice sniper for the price, on a scale of 1 - 10 it is a 7 in accuracy at 100 feet with .25g bbs. The stock range has serious limitations because it has the same range as a good AEG. Overall it is a good buy for the money but upgrading you really need to be experienced in sniper internals because there are hardly any plug and play parts for this rifle.

@JcCustoms I remembered the piece when i saw your link, i took a round metal file and filed the barrel locking ring inside diameter. It is much better but still hard to push forward after engaging the piston. I retried the laylax piston with the stock spring and stock spring guide and it would not engage the piston. I was thinking of cutting down the stock plastic guide, think this is a good idea? or would it make the spring too unstable? you think the UTG upgrade kit has a stronger spring and guide compatible with our rifle? I bought it like four years ago but cant' find the pieces I think i threw them away.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
update on custom mods for this rifle:

I ordered a pair of ER Hops and ER Nubs from HSARMORY and modified the barrel by filing a larger window. From the beginning everything is different for this rifle. The inner barrel notches and the bucking is quite different form the usual barrel configurations. The exact details I can later write up with pics if anyone is really interested and i get some time to photograph it. Well, the larger hop window in the inner barrel was acompanied by opening the window in the hop up unit. I used a King Arms purple bucking and sanded down the nub. I marked diferent levels in the inner barrel corresponding to the hop unit positions so it ends up in the stock configuration so the airseal is not compromised. After sanding down the outer and inner diameter of the ER Hop, and more than 15 times reassembling and disasembling the rifle, I have finally managed the bb's not take too much spin and fly up into the athmosphere. The adjusment wheel for the hop up does not seem to cause any effect now, maybe I will extend the little rod later on. I am using BIO BBs of 0.32g (decided to make a GREEN rifle since its trendy to be GREEN, haha).

I was testing the distance and it does increase with this ER Hop, however it does not fly straight and drop, it does the down and up motion at the initial flight trajectory, never liked it cause accuracy is not 100% when this happens. I did modify the hop arm and tried using the M Nub from HSarmory but it does not reach enough to increase the ER Hop into the inner barrel chamber. Besides its a 3M product readily available and a waste of money. I instead cut a piece of an eraser (LION brand, the white colored eraser) but I think the adjustment rod is now not long enough to increase hop.

As i was testing it today the rifle started loosing power, the trigger engaged but the piston was loose. Don't ask me how it happened. Now here is the question for JcCustoms: I experimented with the stock spring guide, the LAYLAX piston and the already cut old pss9 spring. I tried trimming down the spring but it just wont engage the piston, went so far as to almost the size of an AEG spring, took the parts outside compressed them and it all the way in. I think the problem is in the shape of the LAYLAX piston on the bottom. Explain to me where exactly does the trigger engage the piston and also Could I modify it so it has a proper groove to engage the triger and piston? I need some more FPS to really get a good advantage with the ER Hop.
 

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update on custom mods for this rifle:
Now here is the question for JcCustoms: I experimented with the stock spring guide, the LAYLAX piston and the already cut old pss9 spring. I tried trimming down the spring but it just wont engage the piston, went so far as to almost the size of an AEG spring, took the parts outside compressed them and it all the way in. I think the problem is in the shape of the LAYLAX piston on the bottom. Explain to me where exactly does the trigger engage the piston and also Could I modify it so it has a proper groove to engage the triger and piston? I need some more FPS to really get a good advantage with the ER Hop.
Are you using the Zero Trig? If not then that's the problem. The Laylax piston is for 90 degree sears, not 45 like the stock setup. The trigger engages the lip near the opening for the spring.

If using the Laylax piston with the stock trigger, you cannot mod it to make it work due to the limited amount of material on the ridge that engages the sear.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Ok, im gonna switch the z triger from my UTG to try it again. On a sidenote i played yesterday and after a few magazines of practice the wellfire stopped engaging, it dry fires. Might be the sear is messsed up now but i will try to make some time to open both rifles and and make the triger switch. Hopefully this fixes it, my shoulder hurts from the 190sp of my UTG. I'll also try to post some pics of the wellfire mods.
 

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I'm not 100% positive, but the UTG Z-Trig won't fit in the L96. The TM L96 + clone take specific parts and cannot be interchangeable with most other types of L96's.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Indeed last night i opened up both rifles and experimented.
BIG NOTES for the Wellfire L96:

1) The PSS9 Zero Trigger does not fit without modification. The zero trigger is too short for the forward hole but can be easily fixed with a metal plate to extend the trigger to the forward hole.
2) The spring will deform from day one because the spring guide is too short. The spring guide needs to be short or else it will not be able to pull the piston enough to get to the trigger.
3) The piston has been ruined by use quite quickly, sections have been shaved away where it engages to the trigger and now it dry fires (piston will not engage).

This rifle is beautiful, i like the mat black finish it has. The only mod this rifle has is the ER Hop custom ER Nub and hop up unit modification. It has broken down with a stock spring setting which makes this rifle an obligatory customization rifle in order to work.

The hop up dial is also something I do not believe it works. Seems to me the little stick does not reach enough to move the hop up arm to effectively increase the hop up in this rifle. Correct me if I'm wrong on this and is there any fix to it?
 

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I actually had to make a new longer hopup rod pusher...thingy.. Whatever it's called, lol. I took a piece of the cleaning rod and lathed it down to the same dimensions but added about 2mm to the length. Now it will slightly over hop .20's at the lowest setting and can easily hop .40's nice and flat at about 1/2 on.
 

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if your hop up adjuster can't reach it then maybe use a thicker nub in the chamber?

i'm looking to modify my TM l96 also and i find that the way the base is design will alow some flex between the hop up chamber and dial
 
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