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I would choose G&P over vfc when it comes to upgrading. The externals are similar and if you are upgrading internals anyway save yourself about $100 on a G&P over a vfc.

I would not choose KWA just because of the limited upgrade parts available.
 

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From what I saw on evike vfc's are 380+ minus the one or two guns which are E series.
G&Ps on the other hand are low 300s.

If you have a lot of trouble I'm located little more then a stones throw away and have built a dmr or two in the past.

Off topic I see you're in MD. What group are you a part of? Our team travels across the bay frequently to play so there is a good chance I've already played with you if you have done any bit of traveling to any ops such as the ones hosted by SoG.
 

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I wouldn't drop stock jg internals into a vfc or g&p. I'm not saying go buy $80 gears or anything like that, but I prefer shs to JG and they cost only slightly more if not the same . JG neo motors are also slow as poop unless you are using a high voltage battery (not many people are willing to use 11.1/14.8 lipos). Not only that they're a pain to find in stock.

KWA also is a gun which is geared toward people who don't upgrade. They shoot at field limits out of the box and the cqr shoots at cqb limits out of the box and is geared towards being budgeted.
^That being said they can be upgraded. I don't necessarily prefer the AIM brand but the gears do fit the 2gx gearbox along with the full rack piston. They'll put out at least 450 reliably if not more.


The RS svd is good... If you have the $590 + money for a posp style scope.
 

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I never said anything on any part of shs's line in particular. So saying I endorsed the shs motor over the jg motor is just putting words into my mouth when in fact I said nothing about it.
I didn't realize anyone cared if their hand is a little warm after a 10 minute engagement.


ASM isn't a retail website so saying you can find them on there for 20 is a moot point.

As for your KWA experience. Every brand has it's lemons. It could also be due to the fact that they were using the matrix magnum motor and the pinion didn't mesh. It could also be because the motor grip they were using had a bad angle. It could ALSO be the fact that the motor adjustment height wasn't properly set.

The fact is that MOST airsoft players do not want to open their guns and upgrade them. If they do a lot of times they can't get it back together.

I never said AIM was good as a brand.

You're taking this off topic. I'm not saying any more about it.

ontopic:
What is your budget and what length/type gun do you prefer?
Whatever gun you get I recommend at least getting a prommy barrel and dropping a r-hop into it. It doesn't have to be super high fps in order to be a DMR. You just need a gun which is more accurate and has a farther range then a standard AEG. If you are unsatisfied after setting up the barrel and hop up I would look into fiddling with the gearbox.
 

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I've had some creative ways in making them staying in place until you close the gun. One of which involved magnets. That is what an AR latch does. It makes your guns more difficult to close. I honestly bought another AR latch because it makes my gun easier to close and I now have the option to release spring tension if it was for some reason left half cocked.

As for barrel length I would make put it between 450 and 509mm. Although there is a lot of talk now about short barreled rifles. Although short barreled m4's just plain look funny.
 

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363 is 14", 405 is 16", while 455 is 18". Carbine length guns are 14".
^ Direct conversions
That is the same gun I purchased when I first got into airsoft. The AOE needs to be corrected but other then that as a stock gun I like it. Although now the only thing left stock on that gun is the receiver, motor grip, and front sight.

I personally would get this:
http://www.evike.com/product_info.php?cPath=21_44_219&products_id=28702
Although I like full stocks on DMR type rifles.

^Both guns are wired to deans if you don't already use deans on your charger you might want to think about getting some deans plugs for your batteries or getting an adapter. I would stick with deans though they have a lower resistance then tamiya plugs and are easier to use.
 
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