Airsoft Sniper Forum banner
1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
568 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all, and welcome to my total vsr-10 dissassembly and assembly guide,
well, lets get started! :3

first, take out your magazine, and put your hop up to zero,
then, take out these 2 screws with an allen wrench.

Dont loose the magazine catch, without it, you need to tape your magazine to your gun :-/

after that, you can take the stock off, number 1 is the hopup unit and number 2 is the trigger box.


how to take your cylinder off
i'll show first how to take the cylinder out.

Push that "thing" with your finger, or with a screwdriver.

then you can pull out your cylinder, if you want to replace parts from your cylinder, you need to drill a steel pin from the cylinder, Here is a good guide how to do it:http://www.airsoftforum.com/board/VSR-Cylinder-Pin-Removal-t39751.html
To put the cylinder back in, you need to push these at the same time you push the cylinder in:


how to replace your cylinder/bolt handle
First, take out the cylinder from receiver, then take out the screw on back of the cylinder:

then, this is what you should see,

dont lose this spring and small "rod", i'm not certain what they do, but i am pretty sure they hold the bolt handle on the up and down stance when cocking the gun:

once you changed/lubed the cylinder/handle, you should put them back like this:

tighten the screw on the back of the cylinder and you are done!

How to disassemble and assemble your trigger box
First, you want to take out the cylinder, then take out this screw,

after that, take this screw off

then, pull this white rod called "spring guide stopper".

then, take out these 2 screws, and pull the trigger box out, no springs will jump out yet.

now, take out these 4 screws, order doesn't matter.

Now, seperate the trigger box slowly, there is 3 springs in there, but they shouldn't jump out if you are careful.

this is what you should see, now you can replace your sears, or just clean out some crap there, only things that "need" lubing is those 3 black pins on the trigger, and sears, use silicone spray or thin grease on them.
Here's picture without the trigger and the trigger sear out the way:


but, what if you opened it, and something went wrong, and you cant get the trigger back again? Well, here's what you need to do:
Take the trigger, the spring in front of it, and that little square shaped thing with a screw trough it, out, then put the spring back:

then, put the trigger back and put the square shaped thing with a screw back,

now you can take the other side of the trigger box, but, to be sure its working, only tighten one screw, then pull the trigger, and press the trigger sear at the same time, if the trigger sear doesn't go down, something went wrong, so you need to open it, check everything is all right, and try again.

then you can put all the screws back, screw the trigger box to receiver:


put the spring guide stopper (white shiny rod) back to trigger box, put the trigger guard back, and this is what it should look like (i forgot that screw on the left :-[)


How to open your hopup chamber
First, i recommend you to take out your cylinder, after that, you need to take this screw off:

Then you need to unscrew the whole barrel out from the receiver:

then unscrew these 2 screws:

then unscrew this tiny screw:

after that, take that "arm" off, after that you can pull the hopup unit out from the barrel,

This is what you should see, now to open the hopup chamber, you need to unscrew these screws in the given order:

once you open it, there is 1 spring that is unlikely to jump out, but this is what you should see,

this u-shaped thing is important, without it, everytime you cock, a bb gets disformed before it even gets to barrel.
now you can replace the barrel, hopup unit etc. when you done what you needed, you need to assemble it, this is how you do it the "right" way:
push this u-shaped handle when you close the chamber:

but dont let the spring come out from the other side:

now, screw the white screws, after its fully screwed, screw it off few turns like this:

You need to let it loose so you can put this "rod" in,

dont forget this little part,

Once you putted the "rod" in, you can screw the white screws to end, stop screwing if you need to use some strength, in that case something is blocking, or they dont screw anymore, after that you can screw the other screws back, and push the hopup unit and inner barrel to the barrel, put the little arm back, and screw the white "block" back to the hopup unit, it should look like this:

then screw the barrel back to receiver, put the cylinder back, then put the stock back, screw the screws, and you're done! ;)

Well, this is my take apart guide, if you have questions/critic/tips be free to speak. :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
296 Posts
The only thing I would add to this is that I unscrew the barrel and remove the front of the cylinder and take out all of the parts in the cylinder before taking out the spring guide stopper and then remove the cylinder.

On normal (non-zero trigger) versions I can't help but feel that you will be wearing the spring guide stopper 'hole' that the spring guide rests in. Since slam firing sometimes occurs when this hole get worn I would not want to hammer out the spring guide stopper at all.

My Action Army (and I assume laylax) has a smooth spring guide stopper (no hole) so this is not an issue.

---

Trying to pull out the spring guide stopper was how I stripped the thread of the front screw hole for the trigger the first time I tried to take it apart my bar 10... :/
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
239 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
296 Posts
Lazyness.

...and because it works without it.

But mostly because I'd need to tap the hole in the zero trigger as well. I did put in the next size screw and it held for a while but the metal of the body (jg) just stripped right out.

I might drill it out and set a nut in there one of these days but at the moment its causing me no problems so I haven't bothered.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,893 Posts
I stupidly stripped the front screw to my bar10 too. What I did was I got a dry wall screw that was the right diameter for the hole and cut it down to size. I have a huge collection of spare screws and I just went through it to find one that would work if I forced it in. Couldn't tell you what size. My gun would slam fire without it so it was necessary as I don't have the propper tools to tap it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
59 Posts
Great job on a guide to disasemble the most simplest airsoft gun in history. :D

Just kidding, props to you for taking the time to take the pics and write it up.

Also what did you use for those barrel spacers?

gjdm
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
what if your trigger and piston sears come apart? i have not been able to put them back together, got a new mech coming in the mail, but i cant seem to put the piston sear back in, i think i may have the wrong spring for it or something...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
awesome! i just got my jg bar 10 and ordered new trigger sears as i heard the stock ones wear out fast, this guide will save me tons of time installing the new ones, i heard you can also put a bit of grease on the trigger and piston sear to help ease stress on them during trigger pull
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
332 Posts
Sorry for small necro but has anyone ever thought of putting Teflon tape over the barrel threads to help airseal for when the gun fires? It would most likely increase FPS 15-30 I will try that and report back in.
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top