[MagicMarker]

Just saying.

Long story short:
I was considering which bucking to use as air seal for an R-hop, and immediately thought of Maple Leaf's new Autobot/Decepticon buckings which have a nice little nozzle-seal aide. I was a little concerned about inverting their bucking as the design would certainly resist it more than a normal bucking. Well, I had a 70 degree Monster/Diamond bucking laying around, and inverting it went smoothly- this little rubber stuff is quite strong.
Find a smooth metal rod, non- serrated/knurled tweezers, and use logic; it's not that hard and you honestly don't need to be too careful.

Any input on which bucking to use for air seal would be welcomed. I haven't committed to one.

[post is in reference to VSR buckings]

 

[Alias]

I'd use a g&g green, the cold resistance is nice, most can't resist cold as much as that one

 

[Plazmaburn]

For an AEG install either a prommy purple or g&g green.

In a VSR, which I am sure you are referring to, I have always used the nineball. (in combination with an AA chamber...)

 

[MagicMarker]

In a VSR, which I am sure you are referring to, I have always used the nineball. (in combination with an AA chamber...)

That's probably the most common answer.
Has anyone ever actually figured out the durometer of Nineballs?

 

[Plazmaburn]

If I had a Shore A measuring device I would test the 5 I have.

 

[MagicMarker]

If I had a Shore A measuring device I would test the 5 I have.

Careful says he thought it was 55 if he remembered correctly (dunno what his source was).
It certainly is closer to 60 than 70 in my opinion- with a Maple Leaf 50, 60, and 70 in front of me. The thing that makes it difficult to discern is that the Nineball is a tad thicker in at least one sense (is a bit tighter in the chamber)- so the only valid way to compare the hardness is to inspect completely dense areas (not just squishing the whole thing between your fingers). I'm squishing the extruded side portion between my nails. It does seem the closest to a Maple Leaf 50 degree, to me.

Here's my main problem: All three of these Maple Leaf buckings (old versions, Monster; Delta 50, Diamond 60, Diamond 70) fit both the Wolverine and Tanaka (King Arms extended) nozzles with a MUCH better seal than the Nineball- but the Nineball fits tighter inside the chamber.

Does anyone have input on the new Macaron Maple Leaf Autobot/Decepticon buckings??

EDIT:
An account that the new ML buckings have much better seal inside the chamber:
http://www.airsoftsniperforum.com/4...me-summary-maple-leaf-decepticon-bucking.html

EDIT EDIT:
Another account of the newer ML Macaron series giving better seal than the old ones:
http://www.airsoftsniperforum.com/41-vsr-rifles/16004-maple-leaf-bucking-variants-chart.html

I'll probably go for their 50 degree and spend a lot of time getting the inside nub-free and using it as air seal; the softer the better for nub concavity to translate its effects- so long as the softness isn't ruining the air seal...though softer could actually make things worse...I think I'll just eventually test a few of the derometers against each other if I like the seal of i the product.

EDIT EDIT EDIT:
The feel when it costs $8.99 and you have an $8 off coupon.

 

[Reliku]

I'd get 60 over 50 though. The rubber on the 50 will wear quickly by the nozzle going in and out. While there'd be no contact patch to wear down, the sealing lips will wear which will eventually start to lose seal.

60 has this problem to a much lesser extent. 70 doesn't have this problem at all :tup:

 

[Plazmaburn]

The 2 that I have out are closer to 65-70 then a 60. Could be age on those. I have also used some A+ buckings in the past for r-hopping. Seemed to work fine, they are a bit poor in the flat hop performance, but that could be from something I did.

Speaking of ML buckings I need to go order some.

 

[MagicMarker]

I'd get 60 over 50 though. The rubber on the 50 will wear quickly by the nozzle going in and out. While there'd be no contact patch to wear down, the sealing lips will wear which will eventually start to lose seal.

60 has this problem to a much lesser extent. 70 doesn't have this problem at all :tup:

But I'd bet that has a lot to do with a specific nozzle- I can't imagine a smooth nozzle entry and exit has a great effect on wear, unless there's some imperfection in their function together...
Purely for performance, I can't quite logic out which durometer would be ideal...so I'll probably just test it eventually. After all, the main importance is simply the fit with the chamber/nozzle- which appears quite promising.

The 2 that I have out are closer to 65-70 then a 60. Could be age on those. I have also used some A+ buckings in the past for r-hopping. Seemed to work fine, they are a bit poor in the flat hop performance, but that could be from something I did.

Speaking of ML buckings I need to go order some.

Huh...interesting, about the Nine Ball.

Use JK Army, with the coupon 29NEAUG16 for $8 off- you'll pay a grand total of ~$7 for a Maple Leaf bucking to arrive at your door. You may actually need to register an account with them to get that coupon, and it only works once...per email that is :hehe: