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#181 ·
Btw, sorry if I came across as Mr. Knowitall. Didn't mean it that way. I just wanted to start of with the possibility you hadn't. I really respect your presence and have seen how much you contribute to the forum.

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#182 ·
The heat shrink is a good Idea. I'll have to pick some up that is large enough to fit the tubing.

I was talking about liquid e-tape, which is basically a brush on rubber kind of thing. It's the stuff The Builder was making hop patches out of at the beginning of this thread.

I'm totally okay with being careful with words, you didn't come across as a know it all at all. Thanks though.
 
#183 ·
Ok great. I seem to have ticked off another user somehow and that is not why I am here so I want to avoid bothering anyone if possible. I knew what you were talking about, it just seemed that being a liquid, it would be difficult to get an even layer. Havent really worked with the stuff much though.

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#184 ·
I don't think putting heat shrink on will work. Because you have to cut the shrink for the window and then the shrink would become useless.

Unless you put the shrink on past the window?

So what are you guys using for the patch, since the e-tape doesn't work very well? Vindis way?
 
#185 ·
At this point I'm not even sure what vindi is doing lol.

I'm using the r-hop tubing, though it's the 9mm so I'll have to do quite a bit of sanding to get it down to the arrow shift diameter.

A thought occurred to me. If I had some sort of glue that I could dip the barrel in that would harden enough to make a hop window through, I'd be able to get the barrel to the right diameter.

I could put some glue down before the heat shrink so when I put it on, it won't just become useless around the window.
 
#186 ·
I was thinking about buying some silicon tubing and seeing if I could make an r hop patch for it. Good point about the heat shrink. Seems like if you put a little bit of glue around the part that would come loose when the hopup window was cut it would work. Or for an aeg you could just cut it carefully do you aren't cutting the end, just a little section out. Don't know if this makes sense.

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#187 ·
The part about the aeg didn't make any sense to me. I see you're using tapatalk too, so maybe autocorrect got you.
 
#188 ·
Sorry. I don't think so though. With the vsr, the hopup window is a cut in the end of the barrel for lack of a better way to say it. In an aeg, the window is a few mms down the barrel so the end of the barrel is still a connected ring. Therefore, if you cut it REALLY carefully, there would still be a strip at the end to preserve the integrity of the tubing. That way there wouldn't be a "flap" at the end. At any rate, I would probably put some super glue or something on before shrinking the tubing with either barrel. Am I making any more sense?

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#189 ·
Yeah, I know what you are talking about.

Most vsr cuts have the little connection at the front of the window, including all 3 barrels I have. Only some don't. I am cutting my arrow shaft the same way, with the connection.
It's not actually needed though. It really only helps to get the bucking on, and that's why I'm keeping it.
 
#191 · (Edited)
I was going to try using the silicone tube(From the r-hop source thread), I got some ID 6mm/OD 8mm silicone tube.
And the tube fits well over the 1713 arrow(About 6,7mm).
But I haven't gotten around to test it yet, I only made a small test fitting using a 2" leftover arrow.

And then just add a flathop to the mix, and you should be golden... Maybe...

The tube by itself sits flat like a flathop and the flathop bucking ensures proper connection to the nozzle.
 

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#194 ·
Sneaktheif said:
It seems like with that long window it would be at least as effective as an rhop. Is there any reason that not having it "fitted" inside the window would make it less effective?

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Click to expand...
I have no idea, I've only tried a Z-kit once.
But the tube does stretch down to the height of the window.
So if the window is to big, the tube will start touching the bb by itself.
I don't know if it's a problem or how much hop it will create.
 
#195 · (Edited)
Masterjuggler98 said:
At this point I'm not even sure what vindi is doing lol.

.
Click to expand...
This :tup:.........









Off Centre Barrel........

This is actually remarkably close to how the original concept LRBs were produced back in the days of classic airsoft guns, and I dont quite know why its not been done before :shrug:..... probably a limit in space vs barrel size... I dont know....Anyhoo.....

With this mod you no longer have to use E, ER or IR hop patches, you use your chosen bucking and an appropriate hop nub.

Use a standard squared off hop window, but leave enough barrel at the open end of the bucking to whip it properly, I also double up by binding with PTFe tape aswell.

All external parts are made from a carbonfibre eclipse barrel as its really easy to machine/tool/files/sand to shape.

This is definatly not a ''stick-it-on-and-it'll-work'' mod, this does require some input from the fitter to get right as the 'off-centre' section needs to be A/ made to fit the bucking without stretching it, and B/ making small enough so that the hop chamber will close around/ slide over it :nuts:

It also requires a fair amount of a feed ramp to be filed into the bottom third of the barrel as the BB no longer feeds in straight, but has to be pushed up and into the barrel :yup:

The other advantage in this barrel type is that it lifts the barrel approx 1mm higher in the outer barrel giving all you LRBers out there a bit more play in your droop angle :hehe:

Let the questions/PMs begin...... :shot:
 
#197 · (Edited)
Go back and have another 'real' look at the pictures, please bear in mind these were taken before I cut the hop window.


You will notice that in the side on veiw the barrel steps down the exact length of a VSR hop bucking, my hop window stops about 1.5mm before it reaches the step to enable the bucking to be whipped.



You can then use any hop arm nub you fancy, bog stock, flat, concave, convex,...... anything....... just remember to remove the internal nub from the bucking first or all you'll hit is birds and low flying planes :doh:


It works by fitting the bucking against the thinner arrow barrel wall, that is less than a millimetre, and then stretching the bucking down into the window, this doesn't affect the bucking as it will stretch more than this in a stock hop unit trying to lift heavy BBs :shrug:, but you get the advantage that you can use whatever shaped nub you feel like and there is no cutting/fitting/fettling/swearing invovled in fitting an E,ER,IR or Etape nub to the barrel and trying to get it to work.


You just spend the time on the barrel, fit a nubless bucking, re-assemble your hop unit(with desired nub format) and start shooting...... you know.... Like how it used to be before all these differnt hop patches were the trend :doh:
 
#198 · (Edited)
What is the point in the shim in the first pic?

What does 'whip' mean? How does it step down the length of a vsr bucking? A vsr bucking is long and it steps down a mm... Could you reword that.

How is this any better then the normal flat hop or rhop? I don't know what you mean by stretching the bucking into the window. Are you talking about once you use the nub to press down? This sounds like the flat hop mod???

Also how are you making up the difference in the barrel size to bucking. People were already having trouble when when the sleeve wasn't filed down.

And you took 3 of the pictures of almost the exact same angle...
 
#200 ·
BuMS said:
Hi would you mind making a small quote like this?
This way it's easier to tell who you are responding to. :shot:
Click to expand...
I thought it was pretty obvious I was responding to vindi... Especially since I posted right after his post....
And I'm talking about his post in my post. :doh:
 
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