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Polarstar FE Issues

12K views 17 replies 4 participants last post by  Corriander  
#1 ·
I have been working on a DMR build for a few weekends now trying to tune it in but i just cant seem to get it right and I am needing some help. It will sometimes double feed with a fresh mag and then when the mag starts to get empty it will sometimes not feed. I also am not getting much consistency. I am trying to get ~450fps and i am close but a typical 5 shots will look like this, FPS wise with .20s, (438, 437, 425, 439, 445). I am not sure if that is good or not but it seems to randomly have large dips like shown...Are my consistency expectations too high (1-2 fps deviation)? I am getting decent range but no real consistency, usually curving to left after around 175' but other times going too high or too low. I can reach out 250', but effective range i feel is around 150' max. Lastly, the BB sometimes rolls out of the barrel since i'm on closed bolt mode. I'm not sure what is messed up here. Seems like multiple things potentially. I have done the dental floss mod as well to help air seal. Lastly, the lonex hop up i have does not fit the FE, i had to sand down the back of the hop up just to be able to close my upper onto my lower. It could be the madbull outer barrel i have is pushing my hop up too far back though...i'm not sure. I plan on trying to flat hop it since i cant mess that one up like a r hop and having less variables will help me narrow down the issues.

I followed this guide for tuning power A guide to the Polarstar Fusion Engine | MiA - Michigan Airsoft

Current FCU Setting
  • DP 28
  • DN 30
  • DR 20
  • CB ON (for a DMR)
  • FA 01
  • Everything else stock

Parts
  • Lonex m4
  • Madbull 18" SPR outer barrel
  • Lonex Hop up
  • Lonex 70* bucking (Greatly reduced BBs rolling out)
  • Prommy purple bucking (BBs just rolled past lips so removed it)
  • Prommy red (jammed every time)
  • Eraser M-Nub
  • R-hop
  • Prommy 6.03mm 455m barrel
  • Polarstar FE with red poppet and red nozzle
  • MAG 130rd VN mags & Lonex flash mag
  • Redline SFR regulator (Cant find much on this as it is new, but redline is known for quality and consistency so i expect only the best)
  • Ninja 63/3000

I also have some parts on the way to flat hop and for testing
  • G&G green bucking
  • polarstar shims for nozzle alignment
  • HS5 m nub
  • namazu nub with roller bar
  • prowin hop up
  • HS5 rhop install aid

Lastly, i do not have the original poppet or nozzle as i bought the FE from amped with the Red/Red setup.
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
Bbs rolling out, is that with or without any hop applied?

With a proper R-hop you shouldn't have any applied with CB and thus.. Yes the BB may roll out because there's no tension to keep it there.
Without/very very light hop they roll out. I assumed that was why but was not 100% sure. So that solves one issue i guess.
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
Try
Dp 21 or 22
Dn 59
Dr 20

Prowin/prommy purple/namuza nub

What is your operating pressure for 450fps?
Why have the Dn so high, just curious?

With my prommy purple, the bucking lips didnt even tough the bb, if i dropped the bb from the muzzle to breach it would just slide past the bucking.

~85psi, shots refreshed instantly on each shot according to redline reg gauge.
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
A high Dn will help with feeding issues.

On the bucking, the lips are there to seal against the nozzle. The contact patch is what should be applying friction to the bb to prevent forward rollout.

Remove any Teflon tape or floss you used to seal the bucking. Put a heavy silicone grease on the exterior of the inner barrel forward of the hop window instead. It will seal the bucking to the barrel without distorting it. Use a flat hop nub cut to fit the prowin window. Apply light hop to retain the bb. Use o-rings on the inner barrel instead of a spring to adjust positioning against the outer barrel.

If your barrel is not already polished, polish it first.

Use 0.30g or heavier bbs. Tune to the joule equivalent for the weight used, not on a 0.20g.

Curve at distance is usually due to a slightly rotated or unsecured barrel, rotated hop unit or a misaligned bucking. Even a degree or two will yield a long distance curve result.
With the prommy purple i was having more double feeds, i was attributing that to being because the feed lips were letting BBs through, not sure though since it was on closed bolt.

I will be cutting the namazu nub for the prowin. I also cannot fit any o-rings in front of my hop up as it pushes to hard against my FE and i cannot close my upper and lower (Seems way to tight imo but i cant find out why. I will see if the prowin can fit better). I have the HS5 barrel lockdown kit but i cannot get it to fit, again because pushes my hop up too far back and the orings dont fit in outer barrel (thinking about widening the outer barrel or getting different o-rings).

Im using .36g bioshots so im trying tune it accordingly with those, tune for joules over fps correct?
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
Oh nice idea on the detent, i will do that as a last resort after testing mags, buckings, and the other hop up.

That is good to know, :tup: I will see if i can pick up a few different mag brands. I'm looking for short 20rd mags if possible.
 
Discussion starter · #14 ·
Most of my personal HPA systems see that level of shot consistency. My most used is my sniper sidearm (a P* Amoeba CCC) tuned to 1.48j for its fielded weight (0.32g EF bio) and chronos 347fps w/ 0.20g. I usually have to chrono a few extra times due to shot consistency.

It took a lot of time, effort, tooling and testing to get there.

Don't get discouraged because you aren't there right out of the box.
Thanks, im definitely willing to put in that time, just good to know it can be achieved. Is there a break in period for polarstars? I have never heard of anyone saying there is but just curious
 
Discussion starter · #17 ·
I often full auto a few hundred bbs though any system I make a significant change to before I start testing. Regulators do take a wee bit of breakin.

Not so much on the FE, but I usually switch out the stock lubrication for Molykote 111. Anything brought in or purchased used (including FE's) gets an ultrasonic bath of all relevant parts prior to relube.
Is there a good way to clean it without an ultrasonic bath (as i do not have one):shrug: I purchased some techt gun sav since i've heard good things about it but Molykote 111 ive never heard of, seems more premium/industrial grade.