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I'm not trying it hijack but to keep this R hop stuff together.

I just got new Ra Tech barrel for my WE M14 rifle and I was planning to install the R Hop. However this is what the cutout in the new barrel looks like.

Do I just shape the leading edge to match less about 0.5 mm or should the leading edge be vertical or perpendicular to the bore?
 

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Wow Thanks for the quick reply. The race car shop that I do a lot of welding for has a good Bridgeport. I'll have to go over there and see if I can use it for a few minutes. Maybe I can trade a Tungsten for the time, haha.

So this will give me the extended R Hop? I would guess that it may be a bit more critical to get set up due to the length.

I got a complete new hopup assembly just for this addition.

Possibly this fall I will convert all my mags to HPA for consistency. Since the WE M14 is already over the 400 fps/.20 bb limit and over the 375 with .25 I will be free to go with a bit higher pressure. I simply removed the select fire link...tappet I think it is called and use semi auto. It will be a pain changing mags and air hose but so far I have had plenty of time for this. I'm hoping for greater range and accuracy so I can stand off even more.

We seldom have more than 75 yds clear shot except for winter at the local fields I play on so if I can have better accuracy at this range I'll be happy.
 
I received the R hop today. Two sets. We'll do my son's AEG after my M14.

I finally got a few shots in Sun afternoon. It was pretty windy but the new tight bore barrel and the "race" nozzle really made a difference. If the IR Hop is even close to what I'm reading the rifle will be a real hotrod. Hopefully I'll get it back together this week. Thurs is supposed to be nearly deal calm and 80 deg. I have 3 weights of BB to test. The mosquitoes are really bad in my field.
 
I think it would be ok if you don't want to go thru the sanding and fitting process. I think you will still have some fine tuning to do which may involve taking the gun apart several times then going thru an extensive sight in process.

I guess I'd look at like this..if I could make $130 at a job i love in an afternoon then I'd work and let someone else sand on a tiny piece of rubber so it just fits in a 6mm hole perfectly. In other words I'd split a days pay for someone else to do the grunt work. Haha

I made it a point to not keep track of the time it has taken to fit the IRHop to my rifle. It's not over yet either and I even worked the afternoon above. Haha.

Bottom line is I don't think it is a bolt in.
 
As you can see above my barrel is a bit different from the AEG barrels you see the r hop on.

I was going to cut it square but I decided to try it the way it is so I have the experience and the data.

My rifle shoots pretty hot already knocking on the door of 490 with .20 bbs. I only fire these for chrono testing.

I just got some Valken .36 and .30 bbs. The .36 are od green and are nearly invisible.

My first test was with the .30. I had a nasty hook left and high so I re sanded the ir hop a couple times. I finally have it shooting pretty straight but it seems to be climbing a little all the way out. I managed to break the rifle again and had to stop.

So I got parts and tested some more. The .30 are very difficult to control. I can sight 2 inches low at 20 yds,( height the scope is above the barrel) then at 30 yds it shoots 5 inches high above POA. Then with no changes I shot the .36.

These shot almost exactly the same 2" low at 20 yds but now hit 2 inches low at 30 yds. So it appears that the .36 bb are fling pretty straight out to 30 yds. Both groups are about the same 6" @ 30yds. Nothing to write home about. This is outdoors standing with only the sling for support. The blasted mosquitoes are so bad that I'm beginning to think they are deflecting the bbs. Haha it's like getting lit up point blank by an AEG. I have bigger welts from bites than getting shot.

Then I broke the gun again. I actually can take this rifle apart down to the hopup and put it back together in the dark. Some screws I'm wearing out. It's a good thing there is rc car shops here for screws. I fixed the rifle again with a make shift repair and went to test some more. I fired about 1 mag 30 shots just trying the .36 and the dog gone dust cover broke. It's possible to fire it without this but it a sure thing to cause a broken nozzle. We'll a quick search of McMaster I found some screws that would work temporarily until I can get replacement parts. The nice thing about McMaster is that you normally get next day service without extra cost. I had screws in 22 hours. So I fixed the dust cover and tested again. However I found that I needed another screw for the scope magnifying ring. So testing is again compromised. Then more wind and rain. I think the bugs are on something.

So testing will resume Tuesday evening weather permitting. I'm going to start over with the .36 to see how they work down range. At 30 yds they hit my foam board backing a lot harder than the .30 do if sound is a good indicator

Sorry for the long posts but I'm trying to show how I'm mapping out the bb flight so accuracy and distance can be observed.
 
My WE M14 GBBR has the same type of cut out out I think. Mine is actually tapered at the front compounding the issue.

I carefully trimmed the patch to fit the cutout. Then I used a 6mm precision tube from the hobby shop to get perfect alignment. I lightly lube the inside of the barrel and the outside of the 6mm tube and slid the tube in about an inch. I cleaned the patch with denatured alcohol and positioned it carefully. I use thin instant glue again from the hobby shop, carefully lift the edge of the patch with your exacto knife and put the tiniest drop you can on each edge. Wait about one minute and shoot it with accelerator.

I let itsit over night just to be sure the glue sets up. Carefully slip the tube out clean it and put it back in.

You can then finish the OD of the patch.

I got amother tube that just fits over the OD of the barrel. 9mm I think. The first go around I fit the patch so it was just snug.

Then you can use the OD tube to hold the patch for final interior finishing if necessary.

It took me 4 trys to get it right. I wasn't able to finish testing before the winter set in but it looks good so far.

Since I have to use semi auto I think I'm going to go with a HPA conversion.

I'm not a real sniper, I just like to be sneaky and pop guys when they aren't expecting it. The quality of hit is judged by the number and loudness of cuss words. If I'm shown the "universal sign of peace" I consider it a compliment. :hehe:
 
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