Well I was privileged enough to get another build offer.
When I am able I will update the thread here as much as I can.
When I am able I will update the thread here as much as I can.
SWVA's rifle
woogie
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13 Posts
Thanks
Just wanted to thank Woogie for doing this build for me. This forum is full of great information and more importantly very knowledgeable people.
Just wanted to thank Woogie for doing this build for me. This forum is full of great information and more importantly very knowledgeable people.
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3,788 Posts
Laylax VSR-10 Zero Trigger (Standard, with High Pressure Piston)
PDI Bolt Action Rifle SS 5000 Spring
PDI VSR-10 Spring Guide for Vacuum Piston
Laylax VSR-10 Damper Cylinder Head
PPS Steel VSR-10 Cylinder
New Version Mad Bull Airsoft Black Python 6.03mm tight Bore Inner AEG Barrel. (455mm)
G BAR-10 G-SPEC Marui Clone Airsoft Sniper Rifle.
Angel Custom Ultimate CNC Hopup Chamber for VSR-10
Well guys here is a parts list of what the rifle will start out as.....and only better things to come from it
I do have a picture of the rifle in my head, and will hopefully transfer that to a real thing here I know it will as I have done a rifle kind of like this before and it worked great.
More to come.......should have parts on Wednesday!
PDI Bolt Action Rifle SS 5000 Spring
PDI VSR-10 Spring Guide for Vacuum Piston
Laylax VSR-10 Damper Cylinder Head
PPS Steel VSR-10 Cylinder
New Version Mad Bull Airsoft Black Python 6.03mm tight Bore Inner AEG Barrel. (455mm)
G BAR-10 G-SPEC Marui Clone Airsoft Sniper Rifle.
Angel Custom Ultimate CNC Hopup Chamber for VSR-10
Well guys here is a parts list of what the rifle will start out as.....and only better things to come from it
I do have a picture of the rifle in my head, and will hopefully transfer that to a real thing here
I know it will as I have done a rifle kind of like this before and it worked great.More to come.......should have parts on Wednesday!
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3,788 Posts
Well got the first box of parts in.....
The PPS steel cylinder
Zero trigger
Spring
Cylinder head
Spring guide.... got two of them for some reason ( one VSR one APS-2 )
The cylinder I have never seen before, but it doesn't look bad. The piston will need a little bit of a shave on the delrin rings to fit correctly. As I don't have the rifle as of yet ( I work nights and am at work currently ) I am going to wait for the trimming to make sure that the cylinder fits correctly in the rifle before I mod the piston.
The PPS steel cylinder
Zero trigger
Spring
Cylinder head
Spring guide.... got two of them for some reason ( one VSR one APS-2 )
The cylinder I have never seen before, but it doesn't look bad. The piston will need a little bit of a shave on the delrin rings to fit correctly. As I don't have the rifle as of yet ( I work nights and am at work currently ) I am going to wait for the trimming to make sure that the cylinder fits correctly in the rifle before I mod the piston.
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2,893 Posts
Did you get charged for the second barrel? And this is sounding like one sweet rifle so far.
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3,788 Posts
Progress pictures
Well my parents left and I was able to get started on the rifle.
There were a few small things that I had to do with the rifle to get it to work with all the parts. I had to shave down the delrin rings on the piston itself by a few thousandths, I had to sand the inside of the cylinder itself ( I honestly don't like the cylinder thus far ), had to file down a little bit of the hop chamber holding block, and then of course cut off a little bit of the trigger guard.
The spring in this thing...... WOW ...... this thing is going to shoot HARD. I am 210lbs 6'1" and am able to pull back quite a heavy spring, but this thing was giving me troubles. Though I am not sure if it is due to the rough cylinder, or the receiver being to tight on the cylinder. I am going to take both of them to work with me tomorrow and put them on the big lathe and give them a spin to polish them as best I can.
The hop chamber is very nice, and I honestly like it a lot. It fit nicely in the outer barrel, and the hop bucking itself is longer than normal, due to it using AEG inner barrels. It also comes with a plastic anti blow by ring that is squished between the chamber itself. You will have to use your hop arm, and the ball detent thing. There is a stainless bar for the hop arm to rotate on, as well as a stainless pin at the bottom where the adjustment slider would ride. It is made out of aluminum so you don't have to torque down the bolts to hold tight, but the finish on the part is top notch. The bucking it comes with like I said is extended in length, and has a very nice "H" style nub inside ( so a flat bar hop arm will work best )
![Image]()
Piston on the lathe getting a trim
![Image]()
Hop chamber
![Image]()
Chamber together with the madbull inner barrel
![Image]()
Outer barrel getting heated to remove the threaded portion
![Image]()
Inner and outer barrel together, and showing how much hang over. Can either cut the inner barrel back to the 303mm or bore out the threaded portion and have the barrel run through the suppressor. Can cut back the outer barrel a little bit as well, to have the inner barrel go right to the end of the suppressor.
![Image]()
Hop chamber inside and screwed in
![Image]()
Rifle in stock
![Image]()
Outer barrel and inner barrel in stock for comparison
![Image]()
PPS Cylinder inside receiver, I am digging the black look of everything.
![Image]()
Cylinder pulled back, and man was that a beast. I can honestly say I don't think I would be able to pull the cylinder back from the prone position.
Now SWVA you were asking about the bolt handle going to the left hand side. If I do this the bolt wont lock when you pull the bolt up, it will just kid of flop around. I can do that for you, but thought you would like to know.
The rough cylinder pull was from the cylinder itself, the burs in the sear channel itself. After some work with a file, and swapping between springs and what not I got it really smooth. Though I am finding that the most of it is due to the beast of a spring. With a .20 bb was able to shoot through the bottom of a can from a foot away
Well my parents left and I was able to get started on the rifle.
There were a few small things that I had to do with the rifle to get it to work with all the parts. I had to shave down the delrin rings on the piston itself by a few thousandths, I had to sand the inside of the cylinder itself ( I honestly don't like the cylinder thus far ), had to file down a little bit of the hop chamber holding block, and then of course cut off a little bit of the trigger guard.
The spring in this thing...... WOW ...... this thing is going to shoot HARD. I am 210lbs 6'1" and am able to pull back quite a heavy spring, but this thing was giving me troubles. Though I am not sure if it is due to the rough cylinder, or the receiver being to tight on the cylinder. I am going to take both of them to work with me tomorrow and put them on the big lathe and give them a spin to polish them as best I can.
The hop chamber is very nice, and I honestly like it a lot. It fit nicely in the outer barrel, and the hop bucking itself is longer than normal, due to it using AEG inner barrels. It also comes with a plastic anti blow by ring that is squished between the chamber itself. You will have to use your hop arm, and the ball detent thing. There is a stainless bar for the hop arm to rotate on, as well as a stainless pin at the bottom where the adjustment slider would ride. It is made out of aluminum so you don't have to torque down the bolts to hold tight, but the finish on the part is top notch. The bucking it comes with like I said is extended in length, and has a very nice "H" style nub inside ( so a flat bar hop arm will work best )
Piston on the lathe getting a trim
Hop chamber
Chamber together with the madbull inner barrel
Outer barrel getting heated to remove the threaded portion
Inner and outer barrel together, and showing how much hang over. Can either cut the inner barrel back to the 303mm or bore out the threaded portion and have the barrel run through the suppressor. Can cut back the outer barrel a little bit as well, to have the inner barrel go right to the end of the suppressor.
Hop chamber inside and screwed in
Rifle in stock
Outer barrel and inner barrel in stock for comparison
PPS Cylinder inside receiver, I am digging the black look of everything.
Cylinder pulled back, and man was that a beast. I can honestly say I don't think I would be able to pull the cylinder back from the prone position.
Now SWVA you were asking about the bolt handle going to the left hand side. If I do this the bolt wont lock when you pull the bolt up, it will just kid of flop around. I can do that for you, but thought you would like to know.
The rough cylinder pull was from the cylinder itself, the burs in the sear channel itself. After some work with a file, and swapping between springs and what not I got it really smooth. Though I am finding that the most of it is due to the beast of a spring. With a .20 bb was able to shoot through the bottom of a can from a foot away
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890 Posts
You can put alternative resistance behind the bolt handle instead of using the detents which would allow you to make the rifle left handed and remove said flop. I had to do this to my m24 after I screwed up my detents.
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3,788 Posts
He comes on and checks the thread here, so if you want me to still do the left hand SWVA let me know.
I have now cut the inner barrel down to 303mm to fit inside the outer barrel. Mounted the scope and gave it a few shots, and man is this thing hard to cycle! SWVA is looking at a little bit weaker spring to go in the rifle as of now, looking for that 500-550 fps range.
I have now cut the inner barrel down to 303mm to fit inside the outer barrel. Mounted the scope and gave it a few shots, and man is this thing hard to cycle! SWVA is looking at a little bit weaker spring to go in the rifle as of now, looking for that 500-550 fps range.
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890 Posts
Yeah I did my l96 left handed and got lucky that the bolt easily flips from one side to the other while retaining detent capability.
btw your major resistance could be coming from the pins protruding from the cylinder. I know my action army cylinder was that way and I had to file down the top of the pins to sit flush with the cylinder. Also, did you try and deburr the receiver.
btw your major resistance could be coming from the pins protruding from the cylinder. I know my action army cylinder was that way and I had to file down the top of the pins to sit flush with the cylinder. Also, did you try and deburr the receiver.
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3,788 Posts
I did.
I took the SS5000 spring out of it and put the stock spring back in, with the zero trigger piston, and it was smooth as butter. Put the spring and everything back into the cylinder with the trigger off and was just as smooth. Had the internals of the cylinder out and the zero trigger on the rifle, and it was smooth as silk.
But when you put all the parts inside the cylinder it is rough. I am guessing it is just due to the beef of the SS5000 spring ( the strongest that you can get ). I did file down the sear channel in the cylinder to make that nice and smooth as there were burrs and that.
I took the SS5000 spring out of it and put the stock spring back in, with the zero trigger piston, and it was smooth as butter. Put the spring and everything back into the cylinder with the trigger off and was just as smooth. Had the internals of the cylinder out and the zero trigger on the rifle, and it was smooth as silk.
But when you put all the parts inside the cylinder it is rough. I am guessing it is just due to the beef of the SS5000 spring ( the strongest that you can get ). I did file down the sear channel in the cylinder to make that nice and smooth as there were burrs and that.
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13 Posts
Excited
Woogie,
Looks great so far and I can't wait to use this gun. I am sending you two springs the SS3000 and the SS 4000, let me know which one works best.
Woogie,
Looks great so far and I can't wait to use this gun. I am sending you two springs the SS3000 and the SS 4000, let me know which one works best.
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953 Posts
So you wouldn't recommend the PPS cylinder? Because I kinda like it. Maybe I'll try the AC cylinder.
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