[Plazmaburn]

Also check your scope mount screws, (the ones that hold the rail to the gun) if they are too tight they will scratch up your cylinder, same with the rest of the screws.

 

[TriggerHappy]

loosening the body screws did help a little but there loosened to much in my opinion without the trigger the cylinder comes in in out easily but there's a faint resistense sort of like when the trigger is in but very light on the front part of the cylinder. The stock cylinder is smooth to the touch almost like a plastic feeling and is vary smooth sliding in and out without change in the motion

 

[TriggerHappy]

Hope the problem isn't in my cylinder because it took two of us to put the spring in i was watching airosftpro cz's video on the trigger installation and they commented that there m170 is 220 m/s?! thats nearly 721 fps or so! Na videu je zhruba M150. M170 se natahuje již mnohem hůře, ale výkon bývá přes 200 m/s. i just translated that but i don't think that's it. here's the video-https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CTysssovJsg

Here are the parts-http://airsoftpro.cz/eshop/product_info.php?cPath=93&products_id=2263

-http://airsoftpro.cz/eshop/product_info.php?cPath=93_205&products_id=2002

-http://airsoftpro.cz/eshop/product_info.php?cPath=93_205&products_id=2348

There page says that there cylinder has a nickel coating on the inside and has a smaller diameter-this may cause stock pistons to jam and should only be used with 90 degree triggers and pistons

 

[ahp]

Yes what Plazmaburn said the rail that is used to hold the scope did the same thing!

 

[TriggerHappy]

ya without the stock on, the bolt no longer locks at an inch before the firing position, but it is really rough after about 2 inches

 

[TriggerHappy]

Ok so i loosened the brass block the keeps the trigger to the cylinder a little and that seemed to help the cylinder no longer locks up when pushing forward but i still have to give it all i got just to cycle the damn thing! how long does it take for parts to settle in? will there be a difference? i have a game on saterday

 

[Reliku]

I'd check for screws that are too tight again. Take everything out and move the cylinder inside the receiver. If it's going smooth, put a screw in, try again. If you notice a difference, the screw is too tight and it'll need to be looser. Loosen it up and move the cylinder again. If it's still too tight loosen it again, if it moves freely move on to the next screw. Repeat until all screws are inserted :tup:

Oh, and use thread lock on the screws afterwards

 

[TriggerHappy]

is the brass block that goes into the trigger needed? wont the front screw and spring giude stopper be enough to keep it there? or how would i be able to file down that screw it is too long and does affect the handle, this may be the problem

 

[Reliku]

I would definitely keep the piece of brass. You want the trigger to be attached as firmly as possible to prevent wear on the sears as much as possible. If the screw is too long, I'd shorten it a little or replace it by another shorter screw (M2 screws are fairly common). Leaving it out is asking for trouble :hehe:

 

[TriggerHappy]

>haha thanks for the warning ill try and find a shorter screw

 

[TriggerHappy]

success!!!! no more resistance...its just...kinda hard to cycle XD i have red marks on my chest from it, starting to believe that 220 m/s trigger pull isnt that easy either..is there any way i can make it easier? haha it just really sucks cycling it. It took my 19 year old cousin 5 tries to cycle it:hehe:, takes me about 2 or 1 if im lucky. I'm 16 by the way

 

[TriggerHappy]

and my bbs were going to the right a little so i got an eraser and tried to make my hop up arm like a dangerwerx type B because i have a pdi w hold bucking it helped slightly

 

[raultiger]

You can try cutting down the spring to reduce the fps and make the bolt pull easier.

Take out the spring and cut it down one ring (or half a ring when you get close to where you want it) at a time. A dremel with a cutting wheel or a big pair of metal snips should work. Test it after each time you cut it and see how you like it. Once you've cut it down enough, bend the cut end down so that the end of the spring is flat (like it was when you started - you can look at the other end to compare).

This should help. As an added bonus, your rifle will be a bit quieter too.

 

[MasonM608]

My VSR 10 bolt would slide forward but not enough so I had to shave down metal on the bolt