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Does anyone make upgrades for the T3 gear box. ... or does it need any upgrading at all?

RS SVD has good reviews and I have seen enough people using it.
No one makes upgrades for it to my knowledge, and it is generally respected to not need upgrades. My knowledge on them is limited, as most people who purchase them don't want internal work done to them, or don't upgrade it at all. I know there are several SVD owners on these boards, perhaps one will weigh in on the conversation.
 
Does anyone make upgrades for the T3 gear box. ... or does it need any upgrading at all?

RS SVD has good reviews and I have seen enough people using it.
As star_folder said, there really isn't a need to upgrade it. It has 4 gears instead of 3 for more torque, and the gears are actually made of steel. They can pull any common spring with an 8.4 (it'll have a terrible trigger response though), in fact I've seen up to an M180 used completely stock. It takes the standard long pistons which are 19 teeth and normal piston heads.
 
As said above not all SR-25 have the V2.5 GB, I have a G&P XM 110 and has a regular V2 GB.

The RS SVD has a proprietary GB and there are no upgrade parts for it, but to be honest it doesn't need them!

I've handled the SW M82 and it's pretty fieldable, all you have to watch is the lengh!
I own the SG M82 and has almost twice the weight of the SW! But I love it, currently I'm messing around with it as I have some problems.

Thank fully I've finished all my projects besides the SG M82 but right after that I'll start fabricating parts for my next project, it will be a DMR!


Wolf
 
Discussion starter · #24 ·
As star_folder said, there really isn't a need to upgrade it. It has 4 gears instead of 3 for more torque, and the gears are actually made of steel. They can pull any common spring with an 8.4 (it'll have a terrible trigger response though), in fact I've seen up to an M180 used completely stock. It takes the standard long pistons which are 19 teeth and normal piston heads.
Sounds like a bulletproof that should be used in all AEG's to end upgrades.

Is it painfull to install a M180 spring into a SVD?
 
Has anyone transplanted a T3 gear box into a AEG M4?
It can't be done, and it is a waste. That much torque is ridiculous, slow, horrible, etc. The reason the RS doesn't necessarily need upgrades is because of the quality of the parts used, not the super torque of the gears themselves.

Closest thing you can get to for an m4 is a Systema M150 Revolution gearbox, but, as I said, it is a waste of money, especially with that "SystemA" stuck to the outside of it.
 
Discussion starter · #29 · (Edited)
It can't be done, and it is a waste. That much torque is ridiculous, slow, horrible, etc. The reason the RS doesn't necessarily need upgrades is because of the quality of the parts used, not the super torque of the gears themselves.

Closest thing you can get to for an m4 is a Systema M150 Revolution gearbox, but, as I said, it is a waste of money, especially with that "SystemA" stuck to the outside of it.
Being the T3 gear is so strong it would have be a nice project to turn my M16 into a killer DMR.

Guess back to a SR25 with a V2.5 gear box.
 
Discussion starter · #31 ·
So it may be better not to sink so much money on a SVD or SR25. I could accurize my M4 that is shooting at 350fps so a can play all positions, sniper in semi and action fighting with full auto capability.
 
I do not recall, but did you consider another platform? For instance, a G36 on the fullsize is a perfectly acceptable rifle, as a G3 might be used to make a PSG1. Or, an FAL or L1A1 are similarly large calibre and acceptable impressions of a DMR.
 
Discussion starter · #35 · (Edited)
I want a practical weapon to support my team. There have been instances that the other team had multiple snipers that have very accurate and long range DMRs. Our side had more springer snipers that could not keep up.

It there a real performance advantage of a V2.5 over a V2 gear box? If so, I am considering a GG SR25 and convert to a shorter barrel so I can move around easier, and bring fps to 350-380. Keep a scope on it and side iron side or even side mount a small red dot.

This keeps it practical as a dual purpose.
 
Yes it's pretty bulletproof but I've heard quite a few reports from broken GBs after the installation of M170 spring.
I'm keeping mine in stock form!

Wolf
I run an m170 spring in my DMR (might be m180) on stock gears and gear box (V3).

1) Stress harden the gears; let it run, and let everything rub together and work itself out before instalation.

2) Get someone else to install it. Seems my thumbs are not strong enough.

3) Use a tapered spring. Is that what they are called? The kind that is a bit weaker at the beginning and end of the cycle.

4) Never-ever dryfire it. I do not want the pistol slapping against the nozzle. I always try to have some amount of back pressure or something.

I have put a bit more than 2,000 rounds through it by now, and the mech and gearbox is not showing any sign of undue stress or severe wear.

I want a practical weapon to support my team. There have been instances that the other team had multiple snipers that have very accurate and long range DMRs. Our side had more springer snipers that could not keep up.

It there a real performance advantage of a V2.5 over a V2 gear box? If so, I am considering a GG SR25 and convert to a shorter barrel so I can move around easier, and bring fps to 350-380. Keep a scope on it and side iron side or even side mount a small red dot.

This keeps it practical as a dual purpose.
My technician claims that the wiggly hopup of the V2 develops extra inaccuracy and causes feeding problems with barrels over the subcarbine or carbine length.
 
I want a practical weapon to support my team. There have been instances that the other team had multiple snipers that have very accurate and long range DMRs. Our side had more springer snipers that could not keep up.

It there a real performance advantage of a V2.5 over a V2 gear box? If so, I am considering a GG SR25 and convert to a shorter barrel so I can move around easier, and bring fps to 350-380. Keep a scope on it and side iron side or even side mount a small red dot.

This keeps it practical as a dual purpose.
The benefits of a V2.5 are seen at higher fps with heavier bbs, not at the fps you are looking for. And if you are just going to buy another gun like your M4, you might as well just stick with the M4 you already have instead of buying a new gun that will do the same thing, yet use different mags. It seems I forgot about the G&G in my post earlier, it does not have a V2.5, only a mock up version that is basically a normal V2.

I run an m170 spring in my DMR (might be m180) on stock gears and gear box (V3).

1) Stress harden the gears; let it run, and let everything rub together and work itself out before instalation.

2) Get someone else to install it. Seems my thumbs are not strong enough.

3) Use a tapered spring. Is that what they are called? The kind that is a bit weaker at the beginning and end of the cycle.

4) Never-ever dryfire it. I do not want the pistol slapping against the nozzle. I always try to have some amount of back pressure or something.

I have put a bit more than 2,000 rounds through it by now, and the mech and gearbox is not showing any sign of undue stress or severe wear.

My technician claims that the wiggly hopup of the V2 develops extra inaccuracy and causes feeding problems with barrels over the subcarbine or carbine length.
I believe the word you are looking for is nonlinear. It makes the start of the cycle easier on the gears, so there is less force on the pick up tooth. It's easier to compress at first, but then gets harder the longer you press it. Think of a parabolic graph vs a linear graph, that's about how they work.

Dry firing does not harm your gun any more than normally firing your gun. The argument could be made that actually firing bbs is more harmful to the gun than dry firing. BBs cause compression spikes, which will slow down the return rate of the spring and cause air leaks. This could cause PE (VERY unlikely in a DMR, but not too uncommon in a 19 tooth DMR), and inconsistencies in fps/accuracy.

The two piece M4 hop up isn't all that great, and needs a good bit more work than normal to lock down solidly, but a 1 piece hop up is pretty easy to lock down in such a way that you don't have any wobble. Unless it's improperly secured, it should never cause feeding problems, even in a 2 piece design.
 
V2.5 are A&K SR-25, CA SR-25, some G&P SR-25s, VFC SCAR SSR. Other guns with elongated cylinders are RS SVD, G&G L85, ARMY L85 (G&G Clone), TM PSG-1 (The first), and.... I think that's it, to my knowledge. The VFC 417 long might have an elongated cylinder, but I'm not entirely sure.
 
Discussion starter · #40 ·
V2.5 are A&K SR-25, CA SR-25, some G&P SR-25s, VFC SCAR SSR. Other guns with elongated cylinders are RS SVD, G&G L85, ARMY L85 (G&G Clone), TM PSG-1 (The first), and.... I think that's it, to my knowledge. The VFC 417 long might have an elongated cylinder, but I'm not entirely sure.
Thanks!

Well back to a SR25. The SSR does look different and worth considering.
 
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