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Is 6x magnification too much?

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#21 ·
Glass is a funny thing.

Too much and it sucks, too little, the same.
This AR "can" reach out to about 700 yards with my ass as the grip nut. I can reach out to about 400 with just a red dot. Ammo dependent.

That said, a dot for CQB and out to 350
350 to 800 (DMR) I would run a 3-9, but would go with an AR10.
Now when we get to 1000 yards, I would probably go 6.5 Creedmor and something mid size with a big ass 56 Objective.

But we are talking airsoft, LOL, so the wee 1-4 is about perfect for sniping.
Everything else gets a dot, even the pistols.
 
#23 ·
I like a 3-9 Burris that I ended up with as it looks the part for a sniper and is actually rather light, but I only use it at 3X as that's about right.

For my "DMR" I simply use a cheap red dot and it's super light and look sort of cool, sort of the goal on that gun.
 
#24 ·
TruckinThumper said:
This thread lead me to slap my 1-6 on the VSR.

The two tubes in comparison:

Vortex Viper PST Gen II 1-6 First Focal Plane with VMR-2 reticle
Bushnell 1-4 Second Focal plane with Drop Zone reticle (BDC reticle)

Clarity of glass is very close, but the Vortex is more clear.
FOV is pretty much the same, as is the eye relief.
The 1-4 is lighter by about 5 oz. It is very noticeable compared to the Vortex.

While I love my Vortex on my AR (real) I do not think it is better suited for Airsoft.

The additional 2 x seems to close the FOV too much for my liking.

On my AR I run the Vortex and a redot on a 30deg side mount. This is the perfect set up in my opinion.
Then again we a talking about real steel on a semi-auto platform.

For airsoft where a long range shot is 90 meters, the 1-4 seems to fill the job perfectly.

This is all just my opinion, so take that for what it is worth.

AR in question
View attachment 20987


View attachment 20988
Click to expand...
That very nice


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#29 · (Edited)
I'm thinking an Armaspec as they're like $75 and look the same as the JP, but that frees up some money for bullets or other parts. Do you think that the JP is about as reliable as any old milspec set?
I wasn't sure about how the CMMG BCG worked, I thought that it needed a special barrel or upper but I guess not, so that's cool. Maybe they'd do a lightweight one.
How does their roller delay thing feel compared to a normal BCG?

I was thinking of trying this BCG and using a light buffer with an adjustable block to regulate it, but I'm not sure how that'll work as where I live has a range of -20-+105F and I hear temp screws with powder and gas stuff.
This is the BCG I'm thinking of as it's one of the lightest I can find that isn't $400 or made of aluminum, but I'm getting contradicting info on BCG weight as the gun community is very biased and not exactly truthful.

I imagine you're rocking a pencil barrel like a Faxon or something?
 
#30 ·
No pencil bbl,. they get way to hot for that kind of shooting, well, for my liking anyways.
www.ballisticadvantage.com

18

This 223 Wylde Barrel 18 inch barrel is machined from 416R Stainless Steel and was HP/MPI tested to assure your safety and success.
www.ballisticadvantage.com www.ballisticadvantage.com

I just use the CMMG M16 BCG. Its what I would call normal weight. I am of the opinion that this is non issue with weight. That and the bbl.
* I lied* I also have the B.A M16 BCG. Dont remember how I got it, it may have been some sort of package deal. It looks andfeel identical to a CMMG.
I also run a LOT of CMMG stuff, so probably why I listed it. Good quality and decent prices.

Upper, lower, handguard and buffer system are the important parts for weight. Stock too. Mine is Carbon fiber and that hurt. LOL $$$$$

All the shit that gets bolted on is where the weight is. Bare, this thing weighs about 5 lbs. I have 5lbs of shit attached.
Muzzle brake is the other very important part. I use Kahntrol 3Gun brake and it is top tier as it gets.


As for the buffer, JP set the standard and is worth every penny. I wont build anything without it.
 
#31 ·
I would like to say this about buying stuff.

Some cheap (inexpensive) things are well worth the trouble to replace them on some sort of schedule.
Somethings you just need to buy once, cry once.
However, if you are of the mindset of going cheap, you just have to lower your expectations.
I dont judge. I have seen folks do amazing things on a Poors budget. I have seen idiots make fools of themselves with high end items.
Get what works within your desired budget.
 
#32 ·
So is the BCG just a normal BCG, not with their radial delay tech?
I figure that with BCGs you can get whatever from a reasonably good company like PSA or Aero, if it's a milspec part that is.

Yeah, with that buffer stuff I figure it's hard to make a bad weight(for a milspec style), but with the Armaspec it seems like it's not much different from the JP. Worst comes to worst, I'll return it, leave a review, and get a JP.
Is there a major difference between the JP and a normal setup, or one of those cool flat or braided springs?
If it's just sound then I could care less, as there's obviously louder things going on.

For the handguard I'm thinking one of those cool Lithium alloy Trybe Defense ones as they're lighter than any aluminum one, but look cooler than most of the carbons. The carbon ones that I've seen are either kinda fat, or they're round, and I hate round handguards. I'd consider a carbon though, there's one at the same price as the Trybe, but I'll decide when I get to that.

I have access to a machine shop with a manual lathe and mill, and for a few hundred bucks a year I could get a membership at a place with some CNCs and other cool stuff, so I may try and make an integral buffer/stock like yours out of carbon or titanium instead of adding weight with an MFT stock and buffer tube, which is already considered super light.

Guess I'll probably get a Ballistic Advantage similar to yours, or maybe something like it from somewhere else.
I'll probably just build two uppers, probably a pencil one afterwards.
 
#33 ·
I am pretty sure the radial delay is for PCC, not 5.56.
For PCC that radial delay is the bomb

The JP stuff. I dont think it matters as the kits they sell are outstanding. Really helps the bolt and buffer system from slamming around. It reminds me of hydraulic lifters, without any hrdro.

Here is the funny thing with building an AR, or any gun for that matter.
Set a budget (stop laughing) and build around that. You may go over on some parts, but lower on others.

First thing:
What are you going to do with it? Precision shooting? CQB/DMR/Gaming?
from that, determine WANTS, and NEEDS.
Needs win most of the time, but wants will bug the shit out of you.

This goes for Airsoft too, so it is related.
If I was going for general use, I would go for the shortest BBL I could get away with. State laws dictate this.
A pinned muzzle brake can legally be part of the bbl. So if 16" is the min, you could do 11.5" BBL with a 4.5" PINNED/WELDED brake.

If you are in Cali, just get a slingshot, easier not to be a felon.....I think
 
#34 ·
Oh, that's disappointing lol, I was wondering how on earth you would do that to an AR without dramatically changing things. That does make sense though, as the radial delay is just another type of breech locking mech, and probably the reason people like it is because the other option is straight blowback, which isn't exactly comfortable in my very limited experience.

My vague budget is like 1K for just the gun, as I went mega cheap on the receiver set (95 altogether) and am not buying a bunch of ridiculous parts.
Here's my current build list, maybe a third of which I have already purchased.

Anderson BLEM forged upper
Anderson BLEM forged lower
Hiperfire trigger
Aero LPK
Radian 45/90 selector
Gas block
Ballistic Advantage barrel
Brownell's BCG
Trybe Defense handguard
JP knockoff buffer
For the gas tube and the other minor things I'll probably just get whatever is cheap and from a decent company.
For the stock/buffer tube and the brake I'll try and make them myself as I have the tools and skills, and see no reason for me to spend $350 on a stock/buffer tube. For the flash hider I'd like to replicate one of THESE or THESE with any improvements I can think of. I'll probably buy or make a brake too, for whenever I feel I need, and that would likely be an M4-72 or Raptor V.

As for what I want the rifle to be, I want to basically just have a really good really light gun for general use, that I won't want to replace shit on all the time. I tend to not shoot a whole lot in one go, but I'd like to be able to do a couple magdumps while showing off lol. The reason why I didn't just buy a shitty AR and add stuff to it, is because I'd be left with an upper, lower, mag release, and a couple pins/springs feeling at least $600 less wealthy before I even started the project, and with a bunch of garbage parts nobody would want.
This will likely be one of many to come, but I have now gotten a suitable income and have become bored with my shotguns, muzzleloader, and various .22s.
Also, I want a perfect clone of my airsoft DMR lol.

To be fair, in cali you can also own a bow and arrow or a pocket knife with only a yearly backround check and prostate exam.
 
#36 ·
I would just buy a PSA and be done with it. Palmetto makes a damned good AR for not a lot of $.
Put the other $ into the stuff you would WANT.

I have one of their limited run lowers (Poop Flinging Gremlin). Its frikken hilarious.
It is a mix and match of stuff. Shoots damned good. Ring steel out to about 350.
11.25" With a flash can (i.e. read as "loud").
I think the only thing worth noting is the CMC 3 lb single stage flat face trigger. I love those things.

Image
 
#37 ·
Well when it comes to knives, tools, airsoft stuff, and guns, I'm very particular, and to have a rifle that would fit particular needs and preferences would cost less if I started from the ground up. I did a gunsmith apprentice thing for a school project during my senior year and I helped "build" some guns, a few of which were AR pattern rifles. I also "built" one for a good friend of mine since he's a dope and can't do anything technical, so I do know what I'm doing for the most part.

For somebody who doesn't have specific goals that can't be fulfilled with a standard rifle, I'd recommend PSA in a heartbeat, but like I mentioned, I want a super light super accurate and fun to shoot rifle that also looks pretty cool and like my airsoft DMR, and not much else will do that.
Also, there's lots of guns out there where they are all made of good parts but cost a couple hundred more than the cost of the parts, which for somebody who values their time at less than $100-400 an hour and can assemble a piece of furniture will likely seem like a ridiculous option you'd never consider.
Compared to airsoft, building ARs is like expensive Legos, and making a sniper rifle shoot like a pre SSG24 Novritsch video is really really hard.
 
#38 ·
Wow. I never chimed in on this thread. Here is my viewpoint.
Normally, if you are young and have 20/20 vision, 3 magnification will be fine.
But as you get older, your eyes deteriorate, and you may want 4-6 magnification. I have been sniping for about 10 years and I have noticed recently that a higher magnification is better when shooting out to long ranges.
 
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