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Discussion starter · #22 ·
Cowcow steel hammer set for durability or at minimum the Action Army one, and Action Army TDC chamber for AAP (and a half decent bucking plus a concave nub from a brand you like) is really all you will really need. If you don't intend to do very long range shots (ie less than 15 meters) you can even get away with using the stock chamber, just get a better bucking than stock.

BBU upgrade is only for the lols or if you want to do some 30+rps pain train build, cheapo ones you can use the 5KU sintered aluminum BBUs but I would recommend the Cowcow one for less headaches, speaking as a person who tried both; if you are doing this, then you will most definitely need the 150% recoil spring and 200% nozzle spring
You can see what I purchased above. I'm going to see if I can add the 200% nozzle spring to the order. I've gotten a lot of feedback saying the cowcow nozzle isn't worth installing and has feeding issues. Have you heard this?
 
You can see what I purchased above. I'm going to see if I can add the 200% nozzle spring to the order. I've gotten a lot of feedback saying the cowcow nozzle isn't worth installing and has feeding issues. Have you heard this?
Just went back from an airsoft match where there're like half a dozen or so AAP-01s, and yeah I did hear quite a few people had feeding issue, though unsure whenever if it's the cowcow nozzle or it's just a problem that persists in general (since many people used a combination of everything and all had some issues at some point). Besides the stock nozzle isn't like ridiculously bad either so not that you need to replace it unless it's malfunctioning fiercely.

Personally I used the 5KU alu chamber and that sometimes had feeding problems, but I got it sorted with a more careful installation of the piston head (it has the issue of being not centered sometimes) as well as copious use of silicon lube spray
 
Discussion starter · #24 ·
Just went back from an airsoft match where there're like half a dozen or so AAP-01s, and yeah I did hear quite a few people had feeding issue, though unsure whenever if it's the cowcow nozzle or it's just a problem that persists in general (since many people used a combination of everything and all had some issues at some point). Besides the stock nozzle isn't like ridiculously bad either so not that you need to replace it unless it's malfunctioning fiercely.

Personally I used the 5KU alu chamber and that sometimes had feeding problems, but I got it sorted with a more careful installation of the piston head (it has the issue of being not centered sometimes) as well as copious use of silicon lube spray
What I think I'm going to do is used the advanced piston head from the set in the stock nozzle. I hate to have wasted money on the nozzle but at least I can use the piston head which I've heard is much better than the stock one.

So I'll upgrade the hammer set, the recoil rod and spring, the nozzle spring, and the piston head inside the nozzle. I also purchased the primary airsoft hpa adapter and the selector switch charging handle kit.
 
I wouldn't upgrade the springs if you don't plan on upgrading the stock chamber. A stock chamber doesn't really see the FPS gain benefits from the recoil spring (with or without the guide rod spacers) and only wastes extra gas for no good reason especially with that nozzle spring, you will need to have the cowcow or other aluminium chambers to go with those spring upgrades and see that pistol sized laser beam of doom if you're looking for that kind of thing.
 
Discussion starter · #26 ·
I wouldn't upgrade the springs if you don't plan on upgrading the stock chamber. A stock chamber doesn't really see the FPS gain benefits from the recoil spring (with or without the guide rod spacers) and only wastes extra gas for no good reason especially with that nozzle spring, you will need to have the cowcow or other aluminium chambers to go with those spring upgrades and see that pistol sized laser beam of doom if you're looking for that kind of thing.
Alright so I should cancel the aluminum recoil rod with springs until I'm ready to upgrade the bbu etc?
 
Alright so I should cancel the aluminum recoil rod with springs until I'm ready to upgrade the bbu etc?
The recoil rod replacement is fine I assume, the stock ones are plastics

The springs are really mostly for extreme ROF builds, yeah unless you are ready to upgrade the BBU then i'd suggest just use the stock ones
 
Discussion starter · #28 ·
The recoil rod replacement is fine I assume, the stock ones are plastics

The springs are really mostly for extreme ROF builds, yeah unless you are ready to upgrade the BBU then i'd suggest just use the stock ones
That makes sense. The alu rod comes with a 150% spring. If I installed that in the stock set up, would it reduce efficiency?
 
That makes sense. The alu rod comes with a 150% spring. If I installed that in the stock set up, would it reduce efficiency?
Well, yeah, since the gas system now also has to act against a stronger spring. The heavier the recoil spring is, you will need more gas to do work and compress the spring, which will reduce gas efficiency/increase gas consumed per action. It's not unlike how you will need more muscle strength to pull a BASR's bolt loaded with a stronger spring.

Contrary to a mod in a certain discord server, a lighter BBU definitely affects how much gas would a bolt consume in order to push it, as well as how quickly will the recoil spring push the bolt forwards (thereby changing the ROF in the system). Inertia of mass is a very real thing and Airsoft isn't exempt from it.

A harder nozzle spring affects how quickly a nozzle gets pulled out from the latter's connection with the hop up bucking. In the case of AAP-01 high ROF builds, you use a harder nozzle spring to make sure the nozzle has enough clearance and time to load a new BB into the chamber, before the BBU gets slammed back by the recoil spring, especially in super high ROF builds where you use 2 spacers to minimize bolt travel distance, instead of one or none.
 
Discussion starter · #30 ·
Well, yeah, since the gas system now also has to act against a stronger spring. The heavier the recoil spring is, you will need more gas to do work and compress the spring, which will reduce gas efficiency/increase gas consumed per action. It's not unlike how you will need more muscle strength to pull a BASR's bolt loaded with a stronger spring.

Contrary to a mod in a certain discord server, a lighter BBU definitely affects how much gas would a bolt consume in order to push it, as well as how quickly will the recoil spring push the bolt forwards (thereby changing the ROF in the system). Inertia of mass is a very real thing and Airsoft isn't exempt from it.

A harder nozzle spring affects how quickly a nozzle gets pulled out from the latter's connection with the hop up bucking. In the case of AAP-01 high ROF builds, you use a harder nozzle spring to make sure the nozzle has enough clearance and time to load a new BB into the chamber, before the BBU gets slammed back by the recoil spring, especially in super high ROF builds where you use 2 spacers to minimize bolt travel distance, instead of one or none.
This is a good explanation. I had gotten those two upgrades under the impression it would make trigger response better/snapier.
 
Discussion starter · #32 ·


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I only upgraded the bucking, the nozzle return spring and the recoil spring. And I added extended gbb mags. That way it worked perfectly for one year. After that some unknown part is malfunctioning, meaning semi isn't working anymore. And I am not allowed to shoot ful auto. I tried to fix it, but couldnt find which part is malfuntioning.
 
Discussion starter · #34 ·
I only upgraded the bucking, the nozzle return spring and the recoil spring. And I added extended gbb mags. That way it worked perfectly for one year. After that some unknown part is malfunctioning, meaning semi isn't working anymore. And I am not allowed to shoot ful auto. I tried to fix it, but couldnt find which part is malfuntioning.
Have you tried replacing the parts in the selector switch?
 
Have you tried replacing the parts in the selector switch?
I am using the smi auto only variant, meaning I have no functional selector switch, I assume something got worn out around the smi auto sear, probably a spring. I got a set of steal internals for hammer, semi sear and valve knocker, but it still isnt working. Atm I am usisng a VFC glock on CO2 instead.
 
I've built up the AAP01C for my son and I and have done a ton of research and testing. It is a shorter pistol so there are some differences but not much.
Loki hop up unit is the way to go with an Autobot bucking. We tried the Flamingo and Decepticon and both had lower fps and accuracy. The bucking needs to be sealed on the barrel with a few laps of Teflon tape and then lube the heck out of the outside so it so it slides into the hopup. I used a pen to help push the bucking in so it didn't pull off the barrel. The Loki has better fine tuning for the hopup than the Action Army and Stalker will have their dial adjuster out soon. We also have Crazy Jey barrels and that helped accuracy.
The CowCow hammer kit is a must if you'd like it to be reliable. We also added CowCow short stroke kits with heavier return and nozzle springs. This helps the cycle times when you need to rattle off several fast shots and makes full auto really fun.
His has a CowCow piston and mine has a TTI. I really don't notice any difference between them on the chrono but I like the build of the TTI better.
My son has his HPA tapped and it's a pissed off hand held A10 Worthog, I swear.
Looking at slides but haven't pulled the trigger on one yet.
Red Wolf has some magwells and other aluminum goods that are decent for the money to make it look neat.
I could do with some advice if you wouldn't mind.
I attached a pdf file about what's in my aap01, but I cannot seem to get consistent shots out of it.
I have cleaned the inner barrel just to make sure that's not the issue. I just feel like it should be preforming better for the parts used. I'm not massively bothered about range, more accuracy and grouping consistency as I play indoors and only allowed up to .25g bbs.
Thanks
 

Attachments

I could do with some advice if you wouldn't mind.
I attached a pdf file about what's in my aap01, but I cannot seem to get consistent shots out of it.
I have cleaned the inner barrel just to make sure that's not the issue. I just feel like it should be preforming better for the parts used. I'm not massively bothered about range, more accuracy and grouping consistency as I play indoors and only allowed up to .25g bbs.
Thanks
Personally I think flamingos are hot garbage, at least from the last time I used one (which was either gen 1 or gen 2). Maple Leaf, X-range, or 4UAD may be better.

The rest of the build looks pretty good.
 
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