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FMP Airsoft

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
My beloved M14 has sat on the workbench in the garage for many many months now. While I've tried to sell it off as a boneyard deal multiple times before, I never got any bites. But I suddenly had the idea: how about instead of trying to buy a new platform, I work with the one I currently have? So next paycheck, I'm thinking I'll actually pour some more money down the drain this rifle is and try to make it tick. Let's go over my plans, with questions as well.

What I currently have:
G&P M14 DMR
Gate Warfet
ML Hopup Bucking And Nub
Cyma Piston
Sorbo Pad
SHS Cutoff Lever

The gun has been "corrected" for AOE, although, judging by my incompetency, it has only made it worse. The sorbo pad was 1/4", and I believe that it is responsible for the huge loss in fps I've seen. Seriously, it has been seeing some fps in the 170s... With 0.2s. the issue is probably deeper, as I've seen it jump around a bit. The tappet plate spring is pretty banged up, so maybe it's causing some sealing issues.

What I Want To Install:
New Piston
New Cylinder Head
New Tappet Spring
New Hopup Set
TDC (this gun is perfect for it)
LPVO Scope
Rail Kit?
Short Mags

I've seen some issues with double shots from time to time, and I figure this is the result of using a giant RC battery. I have a Titan battery sitting around that I will have to test.

Questions
1. Any brand suggestions for Piston, Cylinder Head? Should I just buy the Guarder set?
2. What is the best Hopup combination for .3s to .32s? I've had okay results with ML, but want better groupings. FPS will likely be ~400.
3. Anything else? I'm excited to possibly finish this project I started forever ago (no KC02 for me I guess lol).
 
For correcting AOE, I would suggest using washers and put them behind the piston head (unscrew the head from the body and place them in between). I recommend plastic washers over metal ones, as metal ones can potentially damage your piston body over time. And remember to loctite your piston head down.

For the piston itself, I don't really like the Guarder set as it doesn't have a metal rack. While I know that using a plastic piston can be good, I personally wouldn't. If I'm honest, I would just use the cyma piston. I would replace the o-ring though. If there is still air leakage, I would look into getting either an shs piston or a replacement cylinder.

I'd look into getting a set of 7mm bushings.

Stock g&p gears tend to be pretty good as far as stock gears go. I've heard that they are comparable to SHS ones. Just make sure yours are okay, and not sharp or cracked or anything.

Maybe also get a tightbore inner barrel. Perhaps a ZCI, lap it, and then use a faceless or snipetor rhop?
 
Discussion starter · #4 ·
Compression was actually perfect with the Cyma Piston, so my issue lies elsewhere. As to you, sodium, the barrel you have is too short, sorry. The M14 has a specific barrel, so not sure that zci has one for it. What would be the best nub with the rhop?
 
For the barrel, ZCI has M14 cuts, and for a hop combo I'd suggest to flathop a Madbulll red or G&G blue bucking and get one of those Elvishtac R-hops from Amped, Amazon, or eBay.

As for nubs, maybe try making my SS-nub, but a hard and concave or flat nub is best for about everything.
Idk what nub you'd actually use though, since most are rubber or not for AEGs.
Maybe you can find one on Shapeways, and if you can print stuff then I guess check Thingiverse.
 
For a bucking with an RHop, would I be able to go with the Modify pre-flathopped one? For ease of use that would work well.
Should work in the ZCI at least. ZCI has m14 cutouts and works for normal aeg buckings.
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
They would be identical for the most part. They are both clones of the TM M14. Same design, different materials/brands (the motor in the CYMA obviously won't be a G&P M120 like it is in the G&P, the G&P has Deans connectors, etc).

How different would be the internals of G&P from a CYMA m14? I am planning to do a short barrel build (the m14 socom).
 
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